Other: Best synthetics for Stude engines, Trans, OD, and differentals??

[ndynis]

I have tried to use the search function to find recommendations on the best current synthetics to use on our Studebaker running gear but it just didn't produce usable results. Could I get some recommendations from members on their experience please? Not that it matters that much but I have both V8s & OHV6s, standard trans & OD, auto trans, and Dana 27 & 44 rears.

Just thought it might be helpful to others as well to get it all in one thread if possible.

Thanks for your input.
Nick

[Topper2011]

Ha ha, an oil thread! I understand under no conditions to put synthetic in the overdrive. Other than that, I'm sure others can answer. Good luck.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Why would there be a question ?
Any quality synthetic that you would use in most any other engine, trans, rear end will work fine.
I doubt that there is any oil available that knows or cares what engine, trans., or rear end it's going into..!
There is no exotic materials in any Studebaker motivational part that has any different or exotic materials than any other modern engine, trans., rear end.

As for the solid lifters/cam, I ran Castrol GTX 20-50 oil in my daily driver 259 powered Lark for just over 90,000 miles...with zero oil related problems. So being that most quality Synthetics are a bit better at lubricatiog than "dyno" oils...
Valvoline, Mobile 1 are the top two in my book. But Castrol, Penzoil, Brad Penn, Lucas etc. are all good oils.

Mike

[StudeRich]

The transmissions and Rear Axles have operated perfectly for over 50 years using the Factory Lubricants or there current counterparts and I see no valid reason to change anything that is not broken.

When it comes to Engine Oils, those are just all over the place with many modern alternatives, additives, Synthetics etc. available, so no one could say ANY are better than others with much validity because the test of Time has not happened.

[christophe]

FWIW, I used Redline products in my 63S because they don't harm brass parts. My gearbox is a T96 and my rear axle a 27. No side effects but I've not been able to feel any difference.
I think I read somewhere that Ted Harbit uses Redline products too.
Nice day to all.

[Bud]

I use Amsoil Severe gear SAE 75W-110 gear oil in the differentials of all of my cars and use either Amsoil 75W-90 Manual transmission oil or SAE 50 synthetic manual truck transmission oil in all of the manual transmissions I service with very good results. Time marches on and so does lubricant technology, why not take advantage of it. As far as engine oils are concerned, I've been using Chevron Delo 400 15W-40 for 35 years in my cars, but the difference in price between synthetic and conventional oil is so close now that in the future I will switch to synthetics in my cars. Bud

[jclary]

Some time back (years ago), I recall a forum member who said he was a chemical engineer with a specialty in petroleum products. I just don't recall who that was, but I think at the time he was rescuing a pre-war Studebaker that had come into his possession from an estate. Anyway, if he's still around, (perhaps lurking) I thought his postings were great. There has been a somewhat chemical upheaval in the automotive world as new mechanical techniques are integrated with electronic sensors and materials that require more attention to chemical compatibility.

Lighter, more compact, more power, smaller footprint, less friction, and sensitive electronics, when combined with new fuel blends, and lubricants have ramifications hard for some of us "old-timers" to keep abreast of the latest technology. Even the coolant chemical compatibility has come into play. There again, I believe it was Bob Palma or another contributor to the cooperator tech feature in one of our "Turning Wheels" covered coolant compatibility. Having members with the education and credentials (certainly not me) is a valuable resource. I'm guilty of believing some of the urban legends and passing them on, often unaware that they have little basis in fact.

My conclusion is that I tend to stick to the "tried & true" traditions of technology to match the era of my vehicles unless convincing evedence is presented. But, as time marches on, it may be impossible to do as the market changes enough so that the old products are obsolete and discontinued.

[StudeNorm]

It is my understanding that Borg-Warner does not recommend GL-4 or GL-5 lubricants in their T10 trannies. Actually I have heard that they are BAD NEWS. Only GL-1 should be used. In the Studebaker service/shop manual it is very clearly printed that 30w motor oil should be used in the standard transmission, even for the Avanti. I have found that Amsoil 10w-40 motorcycle oil is also listed as a GL-1 tranny oil. This is right on the bottle and in the brochures. I will be doing a tranny oil change later this winter. I am not too sure if the newer motor oils will have a GL-1 rating as even the dino oils are getting additives to make them much more slippery, and it could be that this is where the problem arises. Later.

[GrumpyOne]

FWIW, I used Redline products in my 63S because they don't harm brass parts. My gearbox is a T96 and my rear axle a 27. No side effects but I've not been able to feel any difference.
I think I read somewhere that Ted Harbit uses Redline products too.
Nice day to all.

I agree whole heartedly. Redline products are a bit pricey but when it comes to the best, they are it.

Now with that said, if your vehicle is a leaker... Stick with the dino stuff and my preference there is Castrol closely followed by Valvoline. Some here prefer Rotella but make sure that the version you choose is compatible with the older stuff.

Everything else is everything else...

[TWChamp]

I was able to order GL-1 from my local NAPA store. They didn't stock it, but they were able to get it by the afternoon from the warehouse.

[christophe]

Now with that said, if your vehicle is a leaker...

Sir! There is no such thing as a leaking Studebaker! At least, not since I changed my rear axle pinion seal...

[ndynis]

Thanks to all who have posted so far. Good points both pro & con. I will continue to watch & learn.
Nick

[GrumpyOne]

Sir! There is no such thing as a leaking Studebaker! At least, not since I changed my rear axle pinion seal...

Heh... I guess that blows the ol' "If there is no signs of leakage out of the water so one should be sure to check if there's any oil in to begin with." The closest that I've seen in a Stude non leaker was my Power Hawk shortly after it's engine overhaul back in 1970. It's pretty good now but not perfect.

Contrary to closely held beliefs by people that label their cars female with female names, "I contend that since most Studes aptly mark their spots/territory, they must be almost exclusively male!"

[jts359]

I got GL 1 at tractor supply But I am not to happy with it as it has made the trans very hard to shift while cold, It wasn't like that before I changed it . I may try 30wt. Or Pennzoil Sychromesh transmission lubricant they say on the bottle it will not harm Yellow metal , Ed

[62champ]

Studebaker racing legend Ted Harbit used Redline - so you know it has to be good.