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1955 Commander clutch problem

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  • Clutch / Torque Converter: 1955 Commander clutch problem

    I have a friend in Honiolulu that is 79 years old and is having a problem with his clutch in his 55 Commander. He’s had the car since the early 90s. The car was driving fine until the clutch finally burned out. He lives on a steep grade and that finally contributed to its failure.

    He put a new clutch disc in and now the clutch
    doesn’t work at all. Will not go into gear. He then took everything off again and this time he installed a new pressure plate and new throw-out bearing. Still no clutch. He bought another clutch disc and will reluctantly try again. Is there something that he is doing wrong? I’ve tried to help him over the phone but it seems like a real puzzler to me.

    Any info greatly appreciated. I’m hoping to get some photos from him so I can post them here in case something is visually obvious to somebody.

  • #2
    You might expand on the phrase "no clutch."

    Is it not disengaging? Meaning that the transmission input shaft keeps turning when the engine is running so the gears crunch? The collar that connects the rotating input shaft into the bell housing can crack, and so can the clevis pins that go through the collar and the shafts.

    Is it not engaging? Meaning that the car seems to be in neutral all the time?

    Is the new pressure plate and clutch cover assembly the correct one? Do the fingers rise to essentially the same level as the one that was removed?

    Is the throwout bearing in correct relation to the fork?
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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    • #3
      Is the clutch disc in backwards?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by paul shuffleburg View Post
        Is the clutch disc in backwards?
        That was my first thought also. The center spring part that sticks out the most must tuck into the pressure plate.
        Hopefully weight wasn't resting on the installed disc, which may have warped it, and hopefully the disc was slid onto the tranny splines to make sure it didn't bind.
        I like a thin coat of oil on the splines to prevent rust.

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        • #5
          The first thing to do here is to check that the new disc is of the correct thickness. I saw many relined discs that were too thick. It is also good practice to check that the disc is sliding freely on the input shaft. A little high temp grease here won't hurt, as well as in the crankshaft bushing.
          If the old clutch really burned, he should have the flywheel surfaced and, maybe, the pressure plate; or his new disc won't last long.
          Nice day to all.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Thank you for all the comments. I will relay all the info to him and hopefully he can resolve the problem. His clutch feels like it’s working when he presses the pedal down but nothing happens. In otherwords, there is the same pressure on his left foot as there was before the clutch went out. He did say that the old clutch disc was worn down to zero material. Yes, maybe the flywheel needs attention or too thick of a new disc. Nick

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            • #7
              The fingers that attach to the throw out bearing have been known to slip on the shaft. Ed

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              • #8
                Click image for larger version

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ID:	1724503I will stick my neck out and say it is impossible to put the clutch disc in backwards. I tried to install it backwards and all the pressure plate bolts would not reach the flywheel (photo #1). When the disc is in correctly there should be there should be just some spring pressure during the last 1/8" of torqueing the pressure plate, (photo #2). If there is no spring pressure that would indicate the disc is too thin. When installing the pressure plate and disc the spring pressure is quite noticeable, you can feel it. The disc is stamped "FLYWHEEL SIDE" this is to aid installation but it cannot go in backwards anyway. I tried it. In the case of the above post most likely the disc is too thin if the clutch will not engage. If the assembly is turning and not disengaging may require an external linkage adjustment.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jts359 View Post
                  The fingers that attach to the throw out bearing have been known to slip on the shaft. Ed
                  For true, Ed, but then 2nd-hand we see:
                  His clutch feels like it’s working when he presses the pedal down but nothing happens. In otherwords, there is the same pressure on his left foot as there was before the clutch went out.
                  He's got resistance. On those I've seen when the fingers slip on the shaft, the result is no resistance.

                  jack vines
                  PackardV8

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                  • #10
                    Well he took everything apart and found that the first clutch he had installed was 1/2 inch to large and was pinching between the flywheel and pressure plate. The new clutch is 5/8 inch smaller. He didn’t match up the original clutch.

                    There you have it. A lot of work but I’m sure it will be fine when put back together.
                    Thanks to everyone and their suggestions.

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