Transmission / Overdrive: bearing retainer for t10

[what huh]

Found this on eBay if someone could verify that it’s the correct one?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273480556298

Or if anyone has one for sale, I am a buyer.

Thanks
Charles

[Alan]

I would ask the seller if the throw out bearing portion of the retainer is 1 1/2" in diam. That part is narley looking. Rusty, funky and over priced already. I would put up a want add on the board here or call A&A gear on Washington Blvd. in L.A.

[DieselJim]

Same as a T85.

[jts359]

I may have a NOS one , I will check tomorrow , Ed

[what huh]

Same as a T85.

cool thanks

I may have a NOS one , I will check tomorrow , Ed

That would be nice, shoot me a PM if you find it. Thanks ED

[jts359]

Hi PM sent , Ed

[what huh]

Hi PM sent , Ed

Thanks for checking Ed.

To all - still looking for a bearing retainer. Anybody got one?

I guess should probably take advantage of the classifieds.

[tomhoo]

If the Super T10 works, they are like $30 and readily available. But the ST10 might have a bigger bearing. I think if you hit the internet you should be able to find one under $50.

I know I have 1 spare. If I have a few spares, I'd sell one.

[WinM1895]

Caveat Emptor - Let the buyer beware. Ford also used T-10's and T-85's.

[Alan]

The Ford has a throw out bearing with a 1 7/16" ID. The Chev. is 1 3/8" and the Stude is 1 1/2".

[what huh]

To bring this back up.....

I have been thinking about swapping the t10 I have into my Lark. I have also been looking at hydraulic throwout bearings.

Being that I am leaning on going hydraulic for the throwout bearing, if I want to install this, I should be able to get a Chevy ( 1 3/8) bearing retainer and be good to go if I get the 1 3/8 throwout bearing. No?

[tomhoo]

Do you already have a clutch pedal?

Hydraulic is never as good as Studebaker mechanical. Is it a 61 Lark with floor pedals? They are the very best for precision clutch action - you can feel the throwout bearing tapping on the cover fingers. If it has suspended pedals, there is a bell crank which pivots on the inboard side of the frame. This is OK for a stock type clutch - HD racing clutch another matter. Still, I'd get the pieces for this. If you are missing the clutch pedal entirely, I'd still get the conversion pieces - the floor mounted would be easier to convert.

If using a Chevy, get the Chevy style Studebaker bell housing and all you'll have to do is get a Stude front bearing retainer and turn a simple bushing for back of the crank.

AND it would be all stock too.

[Alan]

Yes, but get the HTOB that is held to the retainer with bolts. I have used the McLoed units that have O rings and they let the TOB jerk back and forth. After a while the hoses start leaking.

[(S)]

Curious what the casting number/s is on these, and what goes bad on them?.

[PackardV8]

Curious what the casting number/s is on these, and what goes bad on them?.

Usually, it's the throwout bearing and/or the forks causing the bearing ID to drag and rattle against the nose of the retainer.

jack vines