Cool/Heat: Lark V8 radiator substitution

[GrumpyOne]

As I understand it, certain Jeep CJ aluminum three row radiators are almost direct replacements for the standard Stude copper original units.

What about the hose connection sizes? Lower outlet hose similar? Upper similar?

Cornfoozed mindz, (me), need to know.

TIA,

JT

[rbigcal]

It's the radiator for jeep/ 350 Chevy conversion. Shop around online and look for one with the top hose connection as far towards outside of tank. Otherwise original hose won't work well. At least that's what I found on my 64 Wagonaire.

[StudeRich]

Quite a few here have tried this one and Really liked the Price, LOOK and Fit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KKS-3-ROW-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-72-73-74-75-76-77-86-JEEP-CJ-CJ5-CJ6-CJ7-CHEVY-ENG/292345182085?hash=item4411217785:g:tfwAAOSwItJaa0q1&vxp=mtr

This one has 1 1/2 Inch IN and Out, that Lower may be a bit small, but maybe there are other choices in that Brand, do you speak Chinese?

[bensherb]

It's the radiator for jeep/ 350 Chevy conversion. Shop around online and look for one with the top hose connection as far towards outside of tank. Otherwise original hose won't work well. At least that's what I found on my 64 Wagonaire.

I just put one in my Hawk a couple days ago. Got it on ebay '72-'86 jeep CJ ,chevy V8 conversion, 1 1/2" inlet and outlet, $118 free shipping.

I did need to trim 1/4" from the edge of both mounting flanges, and drill mounting holes. I could have drilled the radiator flange to match the car but that leaves unsightly unused holes, so I drilled and tapped holes in the car's radiator support to match the radiator. I did drill a third hole in the radiator's flange to match the original center radiator mounting hole. I put a bolt through it from inside the rad support to act as a stud. It makes its FAR easier to install the rad, as it holds it up so you can easily install the other four bolts.

Engine should be going back in Wednesday. I just wanted to make sure the rad fit before the engine was in.
[IMG][/IMG]

[Milaca]

Quite a few here have tried this one and Really liked the Price, LOOK and Fit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KKS-3-ROW-A...Jaa0q1&vxp=mtr

This one has 1 1/2 Inch IN and Out, that Lower may be a bit small, but maybe there are other choices in that Brand, do you speak Chinese?

I just received this same KKS-583CH radiator today. It is advertised as having both hose connections as 1-1/2" diameter, but their ad is incorrect! The top is 1-1/2" and the bottom is 1-3/4" diameter!
I responded to the seller, they checked their stock, and they told me that all of them have the 1-3/4" bottom hose connection. They apologized and gave me a choice of either returning it or I could keep it and receive a $25 discount. I accepted the discount, but now I need to find a hose that will fit.

[345 DeSoto]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KKS-3-ROW-A...Jaa0q1&vxp=mtr....,..Yup, that's the one I used in my Sky Hawk. No problems with it. I settled on this one because of the design of the top tank. To ME it looks more "Stock" than the welded ones. I painted it semi-gloss black on the front and sides, and left the engine side aluminum, so it was less visible through the grille.

[2R2]

I too went with the KKS 583CH, and I also noticed the larger lower hose opening. It just arrived, and I hope to try installing it this weekend, I will report back. Yes, one plus is the upper tank looks more like a traditional radiator compared to other tanks.

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Every one of these replacement Jeep w/Chev engine radiators I have ever seen had the 1-3/4” diameter lower hose fitting in spite of their listed specifications. No problem when installing in a Lark type - just use an Avanti lower hose.

[Milaca]

I went to my local auto-supply store and looked through their stock of radiator hoses, and found a 1-3/4" diameter molded hose elbow (or should I say 'L' shaped hose). I cut it down in length to fit. I should have the install finished in the morning.
One more thing, I took the stock radiator cap from my old radiator and installed on the new radiator, fits perfect. Keeps the look of things a little more original.

[StudeRich]

That is what attracted me to this Brand also, I much prefer a Formed Top Tank to the Plain non-Stock looking ones.

Now if we could just get the Chinese to make us some with the Overflow Tube on the correct RIGHT Side!

Eric, does yours have the Trans. Cooler in the bottom Tank?
It sure doesn't look like it, and they Lied AGAIN, the Ad say's it has the Cooler.
I don't want to start anything Political here, but it does seem to be the Norm for those people and their U.S. counterparts.

I know most Studebaker's are Manual Trans. or Standard Flight-O-Matics, but we have 3 Powershift's, a H.D. Truck Flight-O-Matic and a '61 Police Car all with Trans. Coolers.
I would have to use a Separate Oil Radiator for those.

[2R2]

Rich, it has two plugs on the BOTTOM of the tank to hook up a trans cooler. My car, in this case a '60 Lark, is a stick, so I don't have to worry about that.

[Milaca]

I finally completed the installation of the KKS-583CH (Jeep with Chevy engine) radiator into my 1964 Daytona convertible, and I already regret it. This is typically my outcome when I try to save a buck. Had the radiator been thinner or had the core been 2 inches taller, it would have fit very well as the bottom tank would have easily cleared the fan. The stock fan barely clears the bottom tank flange and I have little clearance between the fan and top tank flange as well (I leaned the top of the radiator back, which made the bottom of the radiator lean forward to make the bottom tank clear the fan).

I suggest spending $594 and get an aluminum radiator that was made specifically for your Hawk or Lark, plus it was made in America:

https://cgj.com/product/stu-1062-studebaker-radiator

I can include photos of my half-donkey install later for anyone that cares. Now I am off to drive the car in 80 F degree weather to see if it cools better.

[2R2]

Well, that's not good! Yes, please send some photos. I am going to install mine tomorrow, I 'll let everyone know how it goes. Yes, the radiator IS shorter, though I did not think about the tanks clearing the fan. Wish me luck!

[Milaca]

1. This photo shows the new 1.75" lower hose, cut to length. Also visible is the ugly spacers used to shim the top of the radiator back (two 3/8 nuts & two 3/8 flat washers).
Leaning the top back made the bottom of the radiator pivot forward, giving me clearance between the fan and radiator. I could have mounted the radiator an inch lower on the radiator support to make the fan clear above the bottom tank, but then the top hose would have been against the power steering lid.



2. This photo shows the relationship of the top of the fan blade to the top of the tank. I have about 7/8 inches of clearance between the radiator cap and the bottom side of the hood.



3. This photo shows the radiator center support rubber puck (only used on convertibles and wagons, I believe), shown in front of the radiator at center. It is 1/4 inches away from the core of the radiator. Notice I rubbed the fins when installing the radiator. I recommend inserting a piece of cardboard between the radiator and the fan when installing to prevent damage to the radiator.



4. This photo shows that the face of the fan is parallel with the radiator (both top and bottom tanks are at, or near equal distance to the fan). Had I not had power steering, I could have eliminated the fan spacer which would have gained much clearance between the radiator and fan, which would have made things much simpler.



5. Rather than drill new holes in the radiator support, I used the existing top four holes. I did however need to drill four new holes in the radiator. The middle holes in the support are bolted directly to the radiator (the bolt goes through the radiator, a 1/8" x 1" x 10" long steel bar, two 3/8 flat washers for spacers and then the radiator support). The top holes that I drilled in the radiator bolt directly to the 1/8" steel bar. The top hole in the 1/8" steel bar bolts to the existing top holes in the radiator support, spaced with two 3/8 nuts and two 3/8 flat washers. Half ass, I know.



6. Another view of the 1/8" steel bar and the gap between the radiator and the header panel top plate (only used on 1964 and later Lark-types).



I hope this all makes sense. In the meantime, I might order a new made-to-fit radiator from Alabama, just in case I run the fan through this one.

[2R2]

Brent, thanks for the photos. Mine is going in a convertible as well (1960) though I do not have power steering. I just ordered the radiator last weekend; after reading what you went through to install it, I doubt I would have! I am going to face the same struggles as you. My guess is that this is more of a drop in on Hawks, due to greater fan clearance. Even non convertible or non sliding roof wagons might be easier.
ill report back tomorrow after I try to install mine.