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Longer Front Wheel Studs Needed For 65 Dytona

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  • Wheels / Tires: Longer Front Wheel Studs Needed For 65 Dytona

    I need wheel studs that are 1/2" longer than stock to allow for wheel spacers on the 65 Daytona I just got. I did searches on this site and the sites of Dorman, Allstrar, Moroso, Currie and Moser. No luck. Moser has one that could work as it s bigger on the knurl, 0.685" vs. Studies 0.640" and I could machine the hubs to fit the larger knurl. Is there anything else available?

    JK

  • #2
    Why are you running spacers is what should be asked first?
    If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

    65 2dr sedan
    64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
    61 V8 Tcab
    63 Tcab 20R powered
    55 Commander Wagon
    54 Champion Wagon
    46 Gibson Model A
    50 JD MC
    45 Agricat
    67 Triumph T100
    66 Bultaco Matadore

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    • #3
      Why not get wheels and/or tires that fit properly? jimmijim
      sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

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      • #4
        Have you tried your local parts store? Longer studs are pretty available I think.

        I'll let you decide if you need spacers. I've run spacers a load of miles both on the street and on the autocross course and never had any issues as long as they are long enough to accomodate the lug nuts.
        Diesel loving, autocrossing, Coupe express loving, Grandpa Architect.

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        • #5
          If you stay with the spacers, be sure to use steel, and not aluminum. You will never be able to keep the lugs tight, with aluminum spacers. At least that has been my experience.

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          • #6
            The problem is the size of the stock bores for the stock studs; they're much larger than pretty much all other 1/2" studs.

            I've found two ways around it. (1) I used studs for a 2004 Mustang, they're much longer than the Stude studs, and made "spacer" tubes to bring them to the Stude size so they could press into the stock holes. My GT is this way. (2) This way is easier. Buy 3" screw in studs from Summit Racing and drill and tap a second bolt pattern in the hub putting a new tapped hole between each of the stock holes. I've use this technique several times. One time, I changed the pattern from 5 on 5 1/2" to 6 on 135mm and used 1 1/4" aluminum hubcentric spacers. That car has never had ANY problems in 18 years, and the lugs have never loosened up on their own.

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            • #7
              My '53 has a ~1977 Maverick/Comet rear in it. About 1-1/2" narrower than the original #27 rear. I have 1/2" ? aluminum spacers. I could not find any longer studs that fit the Ford axle flange as-is so drilled the holes out with a specially purchased "odd sized" bit. The studs have a flared end where the knurl is. Note, I also had to drill out the holes in the brake drum for the same reason. I don't remember details on where I got the studs anymore but they may well have been Dorman. I had trouble finding a pair of spacers that thick too and had to order them from some more obscure website. The clearance holes in the spacers is large enough that they flop around and won't center so my solution was to slip pcs of that corrugated plastic wire sleeve on each stud to fill the gaps. Works perfectly to center the spacer.

              I've not noticed any issues with loose nuts with the aluminum spacers, YMMV.

              Jeff in ND

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              • #8
                Not sure why you are doing this, but putting more stress on the outer wheel bearing and compounding the pressure on the kingpin bushings may not be an improvement.
                Your car and your ideas. Good luck
                sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                1950 Champion Convertible
                1950 Champion 4Dr
                1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                1957 Thunderbird

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                • #9
                  These should work for your ford Maverick axle; https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cal-910104/overview/ or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-46180/overview/

                  Here are some 3" screw in: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-8000/overview/
                  and some 2": https://www.summitracing.com/parts/str-a1025/overview/

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                  • #10
                    Speedway motors has any size lug you need. I put 3" ones on my Avanti to get more bite for the alloy wheel lugnuts...
                    64 GT Hawk (K7)
                    1970 Avanti (R3)

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                    • #11
                      Speedway's web site is horrible! It doesn't flow, bounces you back to where you started from constantly and wants to link searches to a particular vehicle, not to mention their search function sucks! They sent me a coupon for $25 off of a $25+ purchase; it took hours to find anything I was interested in. I ended up buying a $27 dipstick. With the coupon and shipping it ended up costing me $13.50. I'm still waiting for it.

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                      • #12
                        Well, that's you...
                        64 GT Hawk (K7)
                        1970 Avanti (R3)

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                        • #13
                          I agree with you about speedways website. I do shop there a fair amount, but mostly use their catalogs for finding what I want.
                          Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Jeff_H View Post
                            My '53 has a ~1977 Maverick/Comet rear in it. About 1-1/2" narrower than the original #27 rear.
                            Maverick would have an 8" rear axle, looks similar to a 9" rear axle.

                            As original 1976/79 FoMoCo Passenger Cars with rear drum brakes: D6AZ-1107-B .. Wheel Stud - 1/2" -20 x 1 13/16" long / Obsolete ~ 168 available NOS

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                            • #15
                              The OP, 3X2Stude or JK, never did respond back to any of the suggestions above.

                              I found new studs by taking an old one to NAPA and having them match it. They have the stud manufacturers (not Studebaker) parts books... To get a longer stud I would suggest the same. If you can't get to an auto parts store see if someone could help out and do it for you. Maybe labor intensive but you will eventually find what you need.

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