No difference any more, really. The bonded's work fine, and last a little longer, but the riveted linings will wear for years, since none of US are lame drivers!! The thing I found out a while back was to ask for the Raybestos red box, because the red box shoes were asbestos (yeah, the GOOD stuff!), but the blue box was the regular, compressed walnut shells or whatever stuff. Don't worry about wearing out drums, etc. These parts last almost forever. What kills brake drums, brake linings, and brake rotors? Two-footed drivers with one foot on the gas, one on the brake, and the radio turned up loud enough to overcome the metal-to-metal grinding coming from the wheels. If you inspect your brakes every other oil change, you'll never run 'em into the ground!
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Brake shoes, bonded vs. rivited.....from the GTO guys, made me laugh big time:-)
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Originally posted by TWChamp View PostI also had a car with bonded shoes, and they fell off after the car set unused for one year. I prefer rivets over glue.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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Back when I was in the auto parts business I always understood that it always took a better grade of lining to take a rivet rather than glue. But that was when asbestos was the type of brake material in use. Today's non-asbestos compounds may be different in that regard.Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.
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Gun, that is why I try to only purchase NOS parts......and most of our vendors still have plenty of stock!!Originally posted by Gunslinger View PostBack when I was in the auto parts business I always understood that it always took a better grade of lining to take a rivet rather than glue. But that was when asbestos was the type of brake material in use. Today's non-asbestos compounds may be different in that regard.
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I have a question about riveted linings. I have two boxes of drilled linings that I traded for four Lark doors. I didn't care for the trade when I made it years ago, just wanted to help the guy out and, I didn't need the doors either. Fast forward to today, the combination of the rock hard bonded linings available today, that wound't stop my old cars and the fact that I have these linings, doing my own might be a good marriage. The only shoes that I have available for relining have bonded linings. What is the best way to separate the linings from the shoes?
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Why not give the shoes to a known re-liner and have the shoes done with rivets?Originally posted by Hallabutt View PostI have a question about riveted linings. I have two boxes of drilled linings that I traded for four Lark doors. I didn't care for the trade when I made it years ago, just wanted to help the guy out and, I didn't need the doors either. Fast forward to today, the combination of the rock hard bonded linings available today, that wound't stop my old cars and the fact that I have these linings, doing my own might be a good marriage. The only shoes that I have available for relining have bonded linings. What is the best way to separate the linings from the shoes?
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A local brake shop bakes the shoes to remove the bonded linings. I don't know the temp, but I'd guess 400 to 500 degrees.
I used my Dremel to make a 2 step drill bit so I could drill the countersunk holes in my Model A woven brake linings.
I also used a drill stop on the bit to be sure each hole was the same depth.
I put a drop of oil on the rivet tool for each rivet I roll over.
The oil ensures a nice smooth roll without splitting the edge.
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