I purchased the Turner disk brake kit to install on my 53 champion. 4 wheel disk conversion some parts from turner some form parts houses. The instructions show taking a residual valve out of the master cylinder but it shows a one piece piston in the master cylinder. the Jeep master cylinders I have gotten have a two piece piston. am I missing something? I have had this on the car for some time and each time I take the car out the brakes heat up and then lockup in the rear.I bleed the rear calipers and they free up. I bought the Cadillac calipers from ebay rebuilt? Is this my problem bad calipers. about ready to take car to somebody else. thanks for any response.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
turner brake problems
Collapse
X
-
Easiest thing to check, and most likely problem, is the pedal linkage. Back off the pedal linkage at the MC, to create about 1/4" to 3/8" of freeplay on the brake pedal. Measure the freeplay with fingertips, at the pedal pad. That way, you insure the MC is releasing all the way, instead of maintaining pressure in the lines. That pressure causes the brakes to drag, just enough to heat up and all but lockup, in a few miles.
-
Originally posted by michael welch View PostI purchased the Turner disk brake kit to install on my 53 champion. 4 wheel disk conversion some parts from turner some form parts houses. The instructions show taking a residual valve out of the master cylinder but it shows a one piece piston in the master cylinder. the Jeep master cylinders I have gotten have a two piece piston. am I missing something? I have had this on the car for some time and each time I take the car out the brakes heat up and then lockup in the rear.I bleed the rear calipers and they free up. I bought the Cadillac calipers from ebay rebuilt? Is this my problem bad calipers. about ready to take car to somebody else. thanks for any response.Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
Check out my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/r1lark
Comment
-
Here's the method of removing the residual valve(s)
64 GT Hawk (K7)
1970 Avanti (R3)
Comment
-
Originally posted by michael welch View Postthanks for the pictures. have another mc and took the brass fittings out and this one doesn't have the rubber residual valves in it so will install and see if this works. talked to Jim Turner last night and this is what he told me what to do. wish me luck.
It's not fair to Jim, or to any vendor, to open up the forum and see threads like this before being given the opportunity to help. Yes, he's a personal friend of mine, but what's fair is fair and Step One should always be to contact a vendor for help and then post cautiously if help is still needed.
Thanks. BPWe've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.
G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.
Comment
-
With some minor modifications to accommodate the Turner disc brake kit (which wasn't designed for a '51 Champion), I've been very happy with my Turner brakes and their excellent performance -- particularly around smarty-pants drivers who zip in and out of traffic and stop suddenly. It's a good investment in STOPPING when you NEED TO STOP.
Comment
-
Originally posted by BobPalma View PostGuys, this should really be Step One. Jim is one of SDC's most conscientious vendors and deserves to be spoken to before another thread is named something like, "Turner Brake Problems."
It's not fair to Jim, or to any vendor, to open up the forum and see threads like this before being given the opportunity to help. Yes, he's a personal friend of mine, but what's fair is fair and Step One should always be to contact a vendor for help and then post cautiously if help is still needed.
Thanks. BP1964 GT Hawk
PSMCDR 2014
Best time: 14.473 sec. 96.57 MPH quarter mile
PSMCDR 2013
Best time: 14.654 sec. 94.53 MPH quarter
Victoria, Canada
Comment
Comment