63GT Home From The Paint & Body Shop

[JoeHall]

Last Friday, I picked up the GT, after about two months in the paint & body shop. I love the body work and paint job, but at first thought I'd made a mistake in choosing the Champagne Gold color, as it has a bit of what I can best describe as mustard tint. However, I must admit the color is growing on me, as each piece of chrome I install makes the gold even more dazzling.

I found out Friday, the gold cost about $700, whereas the 60s-70s GM Cortex Silver woulda cost around $300. Supposedly because of the PPG special mixture for gold. I almost went with the Cortez Silver, but later switched back to gold. Had I known the price difference, I probably woulda stayed with silver. All things said and done, the C. Gold is gonna work out just fine.

I am glad I went ahead and bought all re-chromed pot metal, since the faded stuff woulda looked like crap with the new paint. I even sprang for new repro aluminum rocker moldings from CE. Will post pix later, when the car is back together.

[thunderations]

Yep, reds and yellows are expensive. Was told it's due to the cost of the tints and EPA's control over the production of those tints. Way back when all paint colors were pretty much the same, then the government got involved. Had a customer in the late 80's that bought a Corvette with smoked plexiglass T-Tops. After the first 100+ day in Phoenix he realized the mistake and purchased a set of solid fiberglass tops to be painted. Long story made short: $450 later we had a half pint of gold base and a pint of red color. Still needed the reducers, hardeners and clear coat plus the labor to apply the product. Gets expensive quick.

[sweetolbob]

Didn't happen without pictures!!!!

I have Cortez Silver on my 83 Avanti and it's one of my favorite colors but I'll bet you'll like the gold better on the GT. I think even I would prefer gold on that model.

Bob

[E. Davis]

Never look back, agonize over or second guess about money spent on Studebakers. It will drive you crazy and after all as a friend of mine once said"its only money and they print more of it every day".

[DieselJim]

The dark red metallic that was put on my wagon listed ad $900.00 a gallon times 2. The charcoal listed at $450.00. Two tone. Red upper and charcoal below trim line.

[63t-cab]

Hurry up Joe, I'm anxious to see this

[JoeHall]

I hit a bit of a snag today. The fiberglass, repro piece from CE, which fits between the bumper and trunk lip, but not quite same as OEM. It is missing the scallops, which provide room for the fingertips to grasp the trunk lip, when opening the trunk. I can do without the fingertip room, but the most I can get for clearance from the bumper is about 1/16". The problem is right where the scallops would be, on the inboard ends where the bumper arches down. I have, "played with" bumper position for about two hours today, and still could not get over 1/16". The piece is beautiful, but those scallops need to be there.

Need to sleep on this one.

[52 Ragtop]

No Pictures and it didn't happen!!!

Jim

[JoeHall]

No Pictures and it didn't happen!!!

Jim

In due time Jim. LOL

[48skyliner]

I have posted this before - http://www.shop.thecoatingstore.com/

I have painted five cars and a custom motorcycle with this urethane paint, including my Studebaker. Used their epoxy and urethane primers, and several of the 2-stage pearl metallics, and I am happy with the way it sprays and polishes out. They have their catalog colors, but one reason they are so cheap is they do not try to match a thousand different OEM colors.

The Studebaker is 2-stage "Sparkling Merlot Pearl": I bought a "full car paint kit" - gallon of the basecoat, a gallon of urethane clear, with the hardener and reducer,$219. It has gone up now to about $250-260 , and some colors are $300, but compare that to the major brands.

I bought a quart of the "Geaux Gold" for a motorcycle project - the pearl makes it really sparkle in the sunlight.

[JoeHall]

I hit a bit of a snag today. The fiberglass, repro piece from CE, which fits between the bumper and trunk lip, but not quite same as OEM. It is missing the scallops, which provide room for the fingertips to grasp the trunk lip, when opening the trunk. I can do without the fingertip room, but the most I can get for clearance from the bumper is about 1/16". The problem is right where the scallops would be, on the inboard ends where the bumper arches down. I have, "played with" bumper position for about two hours today, and still could not get over 1/16". The piece is beautiful, but those scallops need to be there.

Need to sleep on this one.

After sleeping on it, I have a solution: install a 1/4" bolt through the bottom of that fiberglass shroud, with large washer on top, back under the bumper lip, out of sight. Use a long enough bolt to push against the bottom side of the bumper, and push against the top side of the shroud. That will push the shroud away from the bottom of the bumper, and insure the two surfaces never touch. Won't need to push away much, maybe 3/16". Over time, the fiberglass will probably permanently warp into place. Its always good to sleep on things, before breaking out a BFH. LOL

[RadioRoy]

Its always good to sleep on things, before breaking out a BFH. LOL

That's my technique and I heartily encourage others to do also. The first thing that comes to mind is not always the best solution.

[jbwhttail]

Or............., can you weld bumper bracket hole shut then re drill them at the spacing you would like? We had to do that to my 56J because I added an extra spacer to get the body height I wanted,forgot the bumper braces were attached to frame...not body. Moved holes to frame 1/2", just like the spacer used. Just a thought.....

[JoeHall]

Or............., can you weld bumper bracket hole shut then re drill them at the spacing you would like? We had to do that to my 56J because I added an extra spacer to get the body height I wanted,forgot the bumper braces were attached to frame...not body. Moved holes to frame 1/2", just like the spacer used. Just a thought.....

Good idea Joe B. I just kept playing with it, till I got it ironed out. A combination of several little tricks, till I got the clearance needed.

Thanks Much,
Joe H

[JoeHall]

WIth only the door panels and front edge seals left, I am about 98 percent done with putting the car back together. So far, it has taken about 35 hours. I hate to rehang the door panels at this point, as I plan to replace the headliner, windlace, and carpet within the next six weeks. If I put the door panels back on, that headliner, windlace, and carpet may stay in the round-2-it file for an indefinite period. Probably oughta stay on the current roll, and finish the interior now.