Steering: 1949 2R5 Steering Box Rework

[Robert Crandall]

I bought a scrap engine from a 1953 2R5 truck a while ago for the accessories. It has been handy for that. The seller included a steering wheel, shaft, box, column shifter assembly. I presume the truck that it came from sat for many years without windows because the top of the steering shaft cover tube and the column shifter are rusted beyond being usable. It was removed by cutting a tie rod, so the pitman arm is still installed on the box. The box does appear to be usable. It steers nicely and does not show any play by moving the pitman arm by hand. It shows no sign of ever having leaked fluid and is full of a shiny black sticky semi solid something.

I think I may be able to install this box in place of the box that is on my truck, which has a lot of play, binding, and leaking.

My reading of the repair manual has me believing I should do something like this:

1. Take the steering wheel off. The picture in the manual is very dark, but it looks like I need to make a plate to allow my puller to pull the back side of the hub of the steering wheel.
2. I would then be able to remove the steering shaft cover.
3. If the steering shaft rod appears to be useable, then I will be able to install that assembly into my truck. The condition of the inside of the steering box leads me to believe that I will not have to disassemble it, unless I have to in order to change the steering shaft.
4. If the steering shaft is not useable, then I will need to disassemble the box to exchange it for the shaft that is in my truck now.
5. If I need to disassemble the box, then I need to remove the pitman arm. My Harbor Freight puller has, so far, not been able to move it from its shaft. If I do not need to disassemble the box, then I need only to remove the end of the tie rod from the pitman arm.

Do I need to make the plate for my steering wheel puller?
Does any of my plan seem reasonable or the right thing to do?

The gap in my pitman arm puller is too large to get more than a small grip on the edges of my pitman arm. Mashing the gap smaller with a press does nothing because the gap expands out again while pulling on the tapered pitman arm surface. Would anyone recommend a little heat? My source would be a home plumber’s propane bottle torch.

[TWChamp]

I would think you could buy a smaller pitman arm puller that would give a better grab. Once you get the bolt tight to have a lot of pulling pressure, then hammer on the side of the pitman arm where the splines are. This should jar it loose.

If you need to make a plate for the rear of the steering wheel, I'd use something to pad it with to protect the steering wheel. Cutting a couple pieces from an old tire sidewall might work for this. Be sure to have the nut at the end of the steering shaft threads, so they don't get damaged from the pressure.

[Alan]

Harbor Freight has a large bearing separator that when turned up side down works well. You just have to make a little plug for the top of the column to keep from mashing the threads and make sure the horn wire is not in the way.

[Lynn]

Sorry to go off topic here but this made me laugh out loud. "It was removed by cutting a tie rod..."

Guy must have worked at a salvage yard. They think the only wrench they need is the blue tip wrench. Reminds me of a funny story, but I have already gone off topic bad enough.

Okay, back on topic: As for getting the pitman arm off, there are several sizes of pitman arm pullers out there, and even more levels of quality. Do you know anyone in the auto repair business?
Go by a good shop and offer to pay them to remove it. Any well equipped shop that does front end work will have pitman arm pullers (even though most of the newer cars don't have a pitman arm).

Good luck.

[Robert Crandall]

Thanks for the advice. I will look further when I get the steering wheel and shaft cover off. If the box with shaft in place can be put into my truck, then I will not need to take the pitman arm off.

[Mrs K Corbin]

Best bet is to remove your original from the truck carefully following the manual instructions. Disassemble and swap the shaft out of yours if necessary. Before you do any of the above, disassemble, clean, inspect and replace the seals in the new one. It will also let you know what needs to be done to the "new" one prior to installing. Don't toss the original, as they can be Kinda Rebuilt if you have a machine shop around that can do it. There are instructions on the net somewhere for turning the "teeth" on the pitman shaft 90 degrees. the bushings and seals can just be replaced. It's the worm that becomes the sticking point. If it's bad, I don't have a clue what to do about it.

[nvonada]

Puller pictures

Here are pictures of my puller rig made from a HF bearing separator and a pitman arm puller with the puller arms removed.




Worked like magic. I have never had my steering box apart though. More steering wheel pictures here:

http://stude.vonadatech.com/wp/steering-wheel-removal/

Nathan

[Robert Crandall]

Thank you for your advice and photos. I searched the forum for puller, truck, steering, and found a photo of that bearing separator. All of the other photos no longer appear. I plan to go to Harbor Freight today.

I am torn now between (a) install this box because it appears to be in good condition and has not previously leaked - don't fix what is not broke, and (b) install a new seal and maybe bushings while I have it on my bench. I will think further when I get the steering wheel off and evaluate the condition of the steering shaft.

[Robert Crandall]

I bought the pieces to make the setup shown in post #7, and I now have the steering wheel off. As is shown in the repair manual, I loosened the steering post jacket clamp. I should now be able to slide the jacket from the steering gear housing top cover then off the steering post rod. Mine spins freely on the steering hear housing top cover, but I cannot get it to move along the length. I plan to give a little help of some sort, but I want to check before I do that in case someone knows of something that I may have missed. How has this gone for others who have done it? Thanks.

[Robert Crandall]

I found this older line of posts: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...teering+grease

The question asked in post #13 is one that I ask. The answer given in post #14 seems to be a link showing how to rebuild the Ross box. That link is no longer valid. Is there a current one, or an alternate one, perhaps? Thanks.

[Mrs K Corbin]

there are 3 bolts at the steering column side of the gearbox, you may end up having to remove these to get the post and shaft out.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Be careful with the three rubber blocks for the horn button. They get stiff and brittle.

I made a 'C' plate to use with my puller. It does the same thing as the bearing splitter plate, but without the bulk.
(Nice pic's, btw)...

Also did a GM power steering box conversion once to a Ccab. Worked slick.

Also.. There are/were three versions of the 'reach rod' for the Ccabs.
One has two welded on rod ends, One has one welded and one adjustable end. And one has two adjustable ends.
There is also a difference between the bigger truck reach rods (straight), and the smaller truck reach rods (bent).
The straight reach rod will hit the front springs on the 2R5 and 2R10. (BTDT)

[Robert Crandall]

Thanks for the further advice. I am looking now to find a pitman arm puller that will work for this box. When I have the box apart I will update. Once it is apart is seems like a rebuild is only to replace two bushings, a seal, and the cover gasket. If that works out, then I will do it. Because this is a spare box, working on it does not keep me from driving the truck, so taking a couple of months to get it done will be ok for me.

[Robert Crandall]

Here is an update. I mashed my puller closer together with a press then added two angles to hold it. It then worked fine to take the pitman arm off.



The box is now clean and painted. I have a question about a couple of parts.



I found the split ring loose in the box when I took it apart. I found the felt washer left behind in the steering shaft cover. It looks like the felt washer might belong on the bottom section of the steering post jacket bearing with the split ring holding it in place. The bearing has two races and contains loose ball bearings. The whole assembly is listed in the parts manual as 1305-5, but I do not find a list of the individual parts.

Is my guess correct? Thanks.

[capwombat]

Hey, Jeff --

What power steering box & pump did you use on the C-cab conversion? Also, how did you reinforce the frame?