Other: GT Hawk window rollers

[chocolate turkey]

The faster I go, the behinder I get! I pulled the window out of the GT Hawk door and found that there were a bunch of parts missing from the roller assembly. This is my first attempt at this repair, so don't know what should be where. Can anyone help with this? Even the parts book and shop manual missed this repair and parts listing! I have the roller and spring kits to replace....http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2343/2220849584_e101f5898b.jpg[/img]

Brian K. Curtis,
1925 Duplex-Phaeton ER
1949 1/2 ton pickup
1963 GT Hawk custom
1966 Daytona 2dr

[sbca96]

In my new parts pile from years past I have a bag of these from Chuck
Schentledge (spell). The text on the bag says :

WINDOW ROLLER KIT, INCLUDES
REQUIRED REPLACEMENT ROLLERS
FOR ALL K BODIES FOR THE
DOOR WINDOW FRAMES 1953/64
ENOUGH FOR ONE DOOR.

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[chocolate turkey]

Tom, I have new rollers and springs, but where do they go? I dunno..... went out to see Rich G. and showed him the frame and parts. No help there either.
We will eventually find the solution, may have to make the parts!

Brian K. Curtis,
1925 Duplex-Phaeton ER
1949 1/2 ton pickup
1963 GT Hawk custom
1966 Daytona 2dr

[monomaniac]

Brian,
Ask Glen Oosting. He's done this many times but he does not have email.

[Jeff_H]

Its been a few years ago I had one apart, but there is a little slab of steel someplace in the works held in with a screw too in addition to the rollers and the clips. I have some photos somewhere but they are not scanned in to post. While at SASCO last June at the Int'l meet I saw cartons full of NOS GT door windows with glass, etc in the back room where the upholstery piles were. Those had the roller parts all installed.


Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop

[JDP]

BTW, I have this pair of NOS tinted windows for sale, $200 Set. Here:





JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54664,75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,839.60
63 Lark 2 door
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

[chocolate turkey]

There we go... There are two sets of double rollers held in by flat metal brackets. I'll have to make the retainer. I received a set of 3 springs per side and will have figure out how they are held in. Other than that, seems simple!
Art, I spoke to Glen last week and didn't think to mention this problem!

Brian K. Curtis,
1925 Duplex-Phaeton ER
1949 1/2 ton pickup
1963 GT Hawk custom
1966 Daytona 2dr

[leyrret]

Here's a couple photos of retainer. May be difficult to fabricate without a copy to go by. Held in place by countersunk screw with square nut(
visible in JDP photo. I packed mine with grease by placing roller in short hose and clamping hose on grease gun. I used shakeproof lock washers on nuts as I had one fall out after had it all together.

[chocolate turkey]

Photos didn't come through, thanks for the advise on the greasing and washers. I was planning on using thread locker on the hardware.
I do have one retainer to copy and assume it would be the same, or at least similar. Still can't see where the springs are retained, but I'll make something work...

Brian K. Curtis,
1925 Duplex-Phaeton ER
1949 1/2 ton pickup
1963 GT Hawk custom
1966 Daytona 2dr

[Jeff_H]

I looked and found my original notes/sketch of the rollers and clips. I will scan it and post in a day or two. I don't have a decent scanner here.

There are 2 kinds of clips. Two with bent ends and 1 straight one. The roller "kit" I had did not have a straight one so I had to unbend the bends on two of the 6 clips I had. The bracket parts are in lefts and rights, although the ones on each window are the same: 2 lefts for the driver door and 2 rights for the passenger door.

Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop

[leyrret]

Photos are now visible to me. I have spare rollers, springs and windows but none of it is here. As I remember the center roller is held in by the spring. The roller in the slotted hole in the bracket should be spring loaded when installed.

[Jeff_H]

Ok,

Here are my original sketches of the rollers and a picture of one with the 2 retainers removed:







Sorry for the sketch being a little untidy, but it was made for my own use in reassembly so I didn't pretty it up!

I had forgotten there are 3 kinds of rollers too. One with fat shafts, 1 with thin, and a 3rd with a shaft with a large and a small diameter (stagger shaft). The sketch and photo I hope shows how the clips/springs go in. I had to straighten the ends on one clip for the center roller as noted in the sketch. I believe the clips are hooked into stamped tabs in the window frame end, it should be obvious with the parts to look at. At least for the center clip with the straight tails, I think they catch on some nubs stamped into the sides of the frame. Seems to me I had a [}] of a time getting it all together without "sproinging" [:0]

That photo shows was a solid mass of rust that mechanism can turn into. I think if this was designed even in the late 60s instead of the early 50s, they'd have probably used some sort of plastic for the rollers.

Jeff in ND

'53 Champion Hardtop

[3rdGenStude]

Jeff_H,

I know it's an old thread, but I remembered it was here and used it today to put new rollers in my GT's driver window mechanism. Mine had fallen apart somewhat, so it was hard to tell what was where. Your drawing helped immensely.

One quibble. . . I think the "staggered" axle rollers are supposed to go in the elongated bearing slots, while the straight axle rollers go in the round holes. If so, your drawing would show them turned around for the top two. I haven't put the window back in the door yet, so I don't know if it will make any difference or not.

Between the new rollers, a bunch of lithium grease and a rebuilt lift mechanism, this window ought to work really nice though.

Thanks for taking the time to put your drawings up here.

Paul

[bezhawk]

While it is out, replace the front track fuzz strip that is crimped over the front part of the window stainless. It goes a long ways to make things easier to roll up and down.

[3rdGenStude]

While it is out, replace the front track fuzz strip that is crimped over the front part of the window stainless. It goes a long ways to make things easier to roll up and down.

I was planning on it, but thanks for pointing it out. Is it true that the fuzzy half of a Velcro strip will work for this? Also, will good old contact cement work as well as any specialty 3M product to put it on?

I almost have all the old "felt" off. I'm hoping some lacquer thinner will take the remaining residue and stray chunks of material off

Paul