PDA

View Full Version : hawk floor patches



swvalcon
10-30-2017, 02:43 PM
Started to welded up the drivers side floors on the hawk. Finished the rear and started to build the front. The rear I just used flat tin as it's under the seat and undercoated and will be covered with insulation. The front I'am putting a little more effort in although they will get the same treatment. First patch is built and tacked in place. Just a matter of taking a piece of heavy tin and stretching it where it needs to be and creasing and flattening where it needs to be. Still need to build the piece from the rocker box out to the door and the section from the firewall to about where the master cylinder hole is. Also finished the inner fender. Didn't finish the lower front patch much as it's covered by the rear fender and when the rock shield is in place you can't really see it. But did finish off the area around the wheel opening somewhat.

Mike Sal
10-30-2017, 02:59 PM
Did you just patch up the "inner" rocker panel piece, or cut it off & replace it?
Mike S

swvalcon
10-30-2017, 03:28 PM
Mike I cut it off and build new plus add a piece of 3/16 by 1 1/2 in angle iron between the hinge pillar and the door post that will be under the rocker panel to stiffen up that area a little. Built both the rocker box and the inner rocker panel. When I get the floor done out to the door I will fit the outer rocker panel.

rockinhawk
10-30-2017, 04:43 PM
6819668197Not a hawk, but I started replacing the floor in my 48 Convertible. I went to a heat and Air Condition shop and had them bend the edge like the original then I cut, bent, and welded the whole side in. I braced the underside with 1 1/2" X 1/8 angle. I know it won't look original but I'm not trying to impress anyone. I just don't want to fall through.

Doug M
10-30-2017, 09:31 PM
Looks good Neil

rockinhawk
11-01-2017, 03:50 PM
Looks good NeilThanks Doug, I've got it running, and as soon as I get the floor done, i'll get it driveable. Trying to get all the mechanical stuff under the driver's floor done before I Do that side.

swvalcon
11-05-2017, 07:04 PM
Got the last of the driver side floor patches tacked in today. Now to just finish up tomorrow and fit the rocker panel. Also got the rear fender up into primer after doing rust repair.

swvalcon
11-05-2017, 07:09 PM
pictures of floor when I stared and rear fender

swvalcon
11-15-2017, 02:42 PM
Floor on the drivers side is done other than a coat of bed liner. Had to cut into the lower door hinge area to fix the plate that bolts the door to the hinge. Not what I wanted to do but didn't have many options. Also one bolt hole was striped so welded a nut to the back side. Fixed the plate and rewelded the door up and put a coat of paintable bed liner on it.

swvalcon
11-16-2017, 03:59 PM
Floor is finished on the drivers side and started to fit the rocker panel.

63 R2 Hawk
11-16-2017, 07:55 PM
Make sure the car is fully resting on the suspension (no jacks under frame) when welding the rockers, those frames flex a lot and don't fit well if the frame is supprted on stands during welding. Ask me how I found out.....

5brown1
11-17-2017, 05:40 AM
Thanks for posting your work and keep the photos coming. I believe I will be tackling this same issue soon and appreciate any information on how to do it.

swvalcon
11-17-2017, 11:19 AM
63r-2Hawk Yes you never want to replace any body panels on anything not just a Studebaker with out a jack or jack stand under the rear suspension.

swvalcon
11-22-2017, 08:53 AM
Got the door hung. It had a large dent in the center that pulled about 90% with a plunger. Have the rocker set up and all that's needed is to weld it on. I feel I have good gaps all the way around. In fact real good for a Studebaker k body. I made the rocker to door gap a little wider than stock as I feel the k bodies are a little tight from the factory. If it looks to wide after paint I can always cheat it a little with the rocker mldg. if I put those back on. Had to shim the lower door a 1/8 more than I like to but both the door post bottom and lower hinge plate on the door where toast. So being off a 1/8 isn't to bad . Just stands to reason they had to both be off in different directions. Had thought of shaving the door handle and lock and go electric with bear claw latches but don't see a easy way to mount a door popper. Also looks to me like Studebaker had thought about putting a 1/4 window in the sail or c pillar panel. Which ever you prefer to call it. That or they used a inside panel off something else but can't think of what it would be.

BShaw
11-22-2017, 11:21 AM
Looking good, Steve.

swvalcon
11-23-2017, 08:44 AM
Thanks Bob. Looks like I may be able to go power doors yet. I found a door popper at Speedway that only needs 5/8" hole and is only 2 1/2" long. That should fit at the bottom of the door in the weatherstrip channel inside the inner 1/4 panel and be enough to push the door open at least a inch when you hit the key fob to unlock them. Going to do some measuring and if it looks like it will fit this thing is going to get electric doors and trunk.

swvalcon
11-30-2017, 11:46 AM
Got most of the paint off the door and started on the bodywork. May be able to save the trunk as is without going custom. The top right at the crown had a huge dent in it and a crease that looked like some kind of heavy pipe or pole had fell on it. Got most of that out and just needs a little fine tuning. Also had a bend on the rt side where someone had bent the trunk opening it. Got that out but will have to reinforce the inner. The bottom is rusted all the way across and need the lip rebuilt inside and out. Good thing is I can cover the outside patch with the trim panel. The corners where rusted good on both sides. Got the lt side patched up and ground down most of the way. We'll see how much more time I get to work on it the next couple weeks. Using this for fill in when waiting for something else to dry.

StudeRich
11-30-2017, 01:02 PM
Excellent job Steve, it appears that basically, this Hawk really HAD no Body! :ohmy:

swvalcon
11-30-2017, 02:33 PM
Rich At one time it did but was restored back in the late 70's and it just kind of rusted and fell on the road from there. So there wasn't a whole lot left. It's kind of a case of using it to use up some parts I've had laying around for way to long that no one seems to want. Now to see if they want a complete car. Nice thing is when I get sick of working on it I can just let it sit until I feel like it again. Had time to patch the Lt side of the trunk corner today while waiting on bondo to dry on a Nissan.

swvalcon
12-01-2017, 05:23 PM
Turned the trunk over to repair the inner structure at the Rt edge and Rt hinge mount. Looks like the hinge rusted and someone closed it anyway. Where the hinge bolts on was caved in and bent on the side next to the pinch weld. It was enough to bend and twist the old hinge. I pulled out what I could but it still had some small creases in it that wouldn't move I cut some 20 gauge which is about what the factory used for the inner and just rebuilt the hinge mount. Have a few pin holes in the welds but it's now twice as thick in this area so I will just put a glaze coat of filler over it so it's nice and smooth. As you can see a good hinge doesn't fit it to bad. Also there's a shot of what I have to do next to the lip where it's rusted on the inside edge.

Jeff_H
12-01-2017, 06:05 PM
That work on the trunk hinge area reminds me of all the work I did trying to save the original lid off my '53. Both corners were rusted out and cracked. Lid had been left open out in the weather and was actually bent/broken down with hinges stuck in open position. I found another lid that had been laying on the ground as a water pan in a junkyard for years so the top was all rusted as well as dented in. So, I cut out the inner structure corners to graft into my lid. I tacked small turn buckles across the seams so I could tweak it until it would fit the car body. About that time, I started to strip it and found pin holes along the lower rear edge and then was lucky enough to find another lid that had relatively minor dents in the back but was totally solid and straight otherwise. That lid ended up on the car and the original one is still in a shed at the farm as some more work could likely finish it so its a spare.

swvalcon
12-01-2017, 07:08 PM
Jeff I'am sure I could find a used one and it maybe cheaper in the long run. But at my age I don't have a lot of time and I have even less money than time so that tells you where that is at. But sometimes I like to just do one of these tough jobs to see if at 67 I can still do it. Kind of like Gee I still got it.

swvalcon
12-16-2017, 06:16 PM
Got the drivers door body work done and ready to prime. Block sanded the 1/4 panels so that can get a second coat of primer at the same time. Set the front fender up so I could strip it with out chasing it all over the shop. Have a few dents that need some love taps and a little rust that needs patched at the door. Still not sure about the vent door. Either weld it up or leave it stock. The area around the vent is in very decent shape so kind of leaning toward leave it. Nice thing about these fenders they are thick enough that you can bump out the dents, grind them nice and flat and still have a fender. Not like the new stuff where if it's the least bit high and you hit it with a grinder now you have a hole.

swvalcon
12-20-2017, 06:26 PM
Had time today to work on the firewall. The Rt side was rusted pretty good so I cut that out and put in a piece of tin. Not sure if I will put a heater in it or not. If I do maybe a heater AC in one unit. The Rt door post needs a lot of work so guess that comes next. One small spot to do in the corner of the firewall yet and I also had to do a little work on the firewall to frame mounts. I see the pictures didn't come out to good but you can get the general idea.

swvalcon
12-24-2017, 10:04 AM
Got some time yesterday to start on the passenger side of the hawk. I had thought this was the better side but see I may have been wrong. It's rusted pretty good. I know the door was hanging on that side and now I can see why. The lower door post was just kind of floating in space other than the one small piece of angle iron someone had welded in as a rocker panel. Going to take some support of the body as I cut out the rust and build new panels.

JoeHall
12-24-2017, 10:25 AM
I admire your talent, and you have a lot more perseverance than I. But the problem with working on one that far gone is, there is no end to the cancer. If first stripped and then dipped into a huge vat full of rust removing solution, only about half of the car would come back out. But at least you'd be working on clean, rust free metal at that point.

swvalcon
12-24-2017, 10:35 AM
Thanks Joe. I agree there's going to be some cancer I'am going to miss. This a body and frame I had planed to cut up and send to China and the more I looked at it thought why not. I have most of the parts needed and it's just some fill in work. Will get the 350-350 auto out of a 77 Monte Carlo that is just holding down my floor anyway. Should still make a decent driver and out last me and maybe most of us.

tsenecal
12-24-2017, 11:22 AM
I'm glad that you have the patience to save the body from the crusher. I thought that my C body was bad, but it just had a few bits and pieces that needed replaced. The work that you are doing, makes mine look factory fresh. Keep up the good work, and the photos. It is interesting to see the progress.