Another how to question re: heater/defroster switc

[Original50]

I'm trying but I'm unable to figure it out. How in the world do you get the heater motor switch and defroster motor switch out from the dash on a 1950 Champion? I don't see a hole that you insert a pin into to remove anything such as the knob. And also on the back of the switches is a round white do jigger. What is that thing suppose to be for? I'm trying to get everything out of the dash so that I can check out what switches are good and what switches are bad before installing the new wiring harnesses. Hope someone can help me with this one. Thanks yaw!

Don Dodson

[Dwain G.]

You need a manual. There are a lot of things unique to these earlier models that would be hard to figure out on your own.
The knobs are removed by pulling them out to the stop, then inserting a small punch or screwdriver (Anything about the size of a wire clothes hanger) into a tiny hole found in the body of the switch while you pull gently on the knob.
Then you'll be able to reach the special nut that secures the switch to the dash. Studebaker used a special tool J-4252 for that job. You may be able to improvise, or perhaps find a suitable equivalent at an auto parts store.

[img] http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/53C.jpg [/img]
Dwain G.

[Dwain G.]

You need a manual. There are a lot of things unique to these earlier models that would be hard to figure out on your own.
The knobs are removed by pulling them out to the stop, then inserting a small punch or screwdriver (Anything about the size of a wire clothes hanger) into a tiny hole found in the body of the switch while you pull gently on the knob.
Then you'll be able to reach the special nut that secures the switch to the dash. Studebaker used a special tool J-4252 for that job. You may be able to improvise, or perhaps find a suitable equivalent at an auto parts store.

[img] http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/53C.jpg [/img]
Dwain G.

[starlightchamp]

Here is the J4252 tool made from 1/4" brass rod
.

Drill a 1/16" hole and insert a 1/2" steel brad. It goes into the switch and catches on the castlenut grooves,then unscrew.


1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA

[starlightchamp]

Here is the J4252 tool made from 1/4" brass rod
.

Drill a 1/16" hole and insert a 1/2" steel brad. It goes into the switch and catches on the castlenut grooves,then unscrew.


1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA

[starlightchamp]

Like Dwayne says. Put a bent paper clip into the small hole and push while
pulling gently on the Knob, This releases a catch so the knob can be removed.


1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA

[starlightchamp]

Like Dwayne says. Put a bent paper clip into the small hole and push while
pulling gently on the Knob, This releases a catch so the knob can be removed.


1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA

[Original50]

Thanks fella's. I got the two switches out with yaw's help. Before, I was trying to stick a probe in something that looked like a hole. and push on the hole, and nothing happened. Heck, I used a small screwdriver, and pushed up on the area behind the hole and it gave, so I pulled the knob out. I then saw the nut up in the hole and used a larger screwdriver to unscrew the nut. The switches are good, and I will clean them up whil'st I have them out.
Now I'll have to figure out how to get that blame nut back up in that small space and tighten it up on the switch shaft.

Don Dodson

[Original50]

Thanks fella's. I got the two switches out with yaw's help. Before, I was trying to stick a probe in something that looked like a hole. and push on the hole, and nothing happened. Heck, I used a small screwdriver, and pushed up on the area behind the hole and it gave, so I pulled the knob out. I then saw the nut up in the hole and used a larger screwdriver to unscrew the nut. The switches are good, and I will clean them up whil'st I have them out.
Now I'll have to figure out how to get that blame nut back up in that small space and tighten it up on the switch shaft.

Don Dodson