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Jerry Forrester
10-04-2017, 03:35 PM
I went to Harbor Freight and got a gallon of bed liner material.
https://i.imgur.com/LifdL2H.jpg

Coated the floorboard from the firewall to the trunk lid latch striker.

https://i.imgur.com/3zPilAV.jpg


Got about 80% done and ran out of material.
https://i.imgur.com/eACPm5s.jpg

Went back to Hazard Fraught and got another gallon. Finished the coating,
https://i.imgur.com/HbNJk1x.jpg

now I'll let that dry a couple days then I'll finish the insulation installation.

StudeRich
10-04-2017, 04:05 PM
I see you have the Heater block-off Plate, did ya keep or install the Defroster for those damp frosty Winter mornings, Humid Georgia Summers or rainy days? ;)

Jerry Forrester
10-04-2017, 04:27 PM
I see you have the Heater block-off Plate, did ya keep or install the Defroster for those damp frosty Winter mornings, Humid Georgia Summers or rainy days? ;)

Good eye Rich.
Buttercup will be getting a heat/air/defrost unit from Vintage Air.

JRoberts
10-04-2017, 05:19 PM
I have been thinking about using something like that in the trunk of my Cruiser. Looks good.

creegster
10-04-2017, 06:39 PM
Does truck bed lining do a better job than other products, such as POR-15?

BobPalma
10-04-2017, 06:51 PM
:lol: Hazard Fraught. I like that....and so true! ;) :cool: BP

PackardV8
10-04-2017, 07:03 PM
Does truck bed lining do a better job than other products, such as POR-15?

POR-15 is more for going over already rusty surfaces. Bed liner is a heavier, thicker coating, more for abrasion resistance, sound deadening and surface protection. It actually works really well underneath, as an undercoating, cuts noise and prevents small stones thrown up by tires from denting the fenders.

jack vines

48skyliner
10-04-2017, 08:13 PM
When I did my 48 Champion, the interior was already undercoated. It was pretty rough, but I did not care because I was putting some heavy foam padding under the carpet, and none of the floor will ever be seen. But I wanted the underside, trunk and wheel wells to look nicer than what you can achieve with a brush on finish. The down side, compared to brushing it on, is that you have to do a lot of masking, because the spray on goes everywhere sticks to EVERYTHING.

I used the UPOL bedliner material, which is available in black or clear. I used the clear and tinted it with the silver grey paint I used in my engine compartment for the underside, trunk and wheel well inner panels. I tinted it with the maroon body color for the inner surfaces of the fenders. You can buy a UPOL kit with spray gun, which works very well, just need an air compressor.

http://www.tptools.com/U-Pol-Raptor-Spray-On-Truck-Bed-Liner-Kit-Black,7338.html?

If you look at my build thread, post number 93,you can see what the texture is like - sort of a heavy orange peel. For more sound deadening, you can apply two or three coats - I only did one coat.

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?75394-Nissan-Skyline-drive-train-and-suspension-adapted-to-48-Champion/page3&highlight=skyline+drivetrain

Colgate Studebaker
10-05-2017, 01:54 PM
Years ago I used Rocker Schutz (? spelling) on the lower outside door and fender panels of the wifes car for chip protection and I've thought of using it on the underside and inner fenders on my GT Hawk. Anyone know if this stuff is the same or similar? Bill

jclary
10-05-2017, 02:18 PM
POR-15 is more for going over already rusty surfaces. Bed liner is a heavier, thicker coating, more for abrasion resistance, sound deadening and surface protection. It actually works really well underneath, as an undercoating, cuts noise and prevents small stones thrown up by tires from denting the fenders.

jack vines

Jack, I'm not sure you are taking into account how much the POR-15 Brand has grown & expanded since its inception as a "Rust Preventative/converter." Under the BRAND, POR-15, has expanded to an entire family of products. Like any family of products, the key is to choose the appropriate chemical for the application.

In regard to the APPLICATION...there are only a very few objectives. "ADHESION"...if it don't "stick," then it is no good. "SEALING," it must seal the substrate against exposure to oxygen, whether borne by water(moisture) or air. Rust and corrosion can not occur with out the catalyst oxygen. And finally...DURABILITY, it should resist abrasion, and chemical breakdown over time. If it meets those requirements, (it don't matter what the brand is), I would call it good.:)

Corvanti
10-05-2017, 02:19 PM
I have been thinking about using something like that in the trunk of my Cruiser. Looks good.

Joe, the '51 had truck bed liner in the trunk when i got her. it's held up well.

jts359
10-05-2017, 06:19 PM
I hope its not made by the same outfit in China that made sheetrock with embalming fluid in it , Ed

DougHolverson
10-05-2017, 07:09 PM
Good eye Rich.
Buttercup will be getting a heat/air/defrost unit from Vintage Air.

What unit?

Jerry Forrester
10-07-2017, 01:32 PM
Does truck bed lining do a better job than other products, such as POR-15?

I don't know, but at about $40 per gallon this bed coating is a lot less expensive than POR15 and you can put it on as thick as you want.

Jerry Forrester
10-07-2017, 01:34 PM
What unit?

Universal Super Cooler Heat-Cool-Defrost.

Jerry Forrester
10-07-2017, 01:43 PM
Got some insulation installed yesterday. Got all the floorboards done that's gonna get done. The trunk is not gonna be insulated, it gets just a regular ole Studebaker trunk mat.


https://i.imgur.com/9qDW6wB.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tN0DJxk.jpg

Jerry Forrester
10-07-2017, 02:08 PM
The inside rear quarters will be insulated also. But first I have to cut the ABS panels that are going on there. If I put the insulation on first I won't be able to see where the mounting holes need to be.
Buttercup isn't going to have a back seat. I plan to do some traveling and that area will be used for suitcases and such. The entire rear cabin area (excepting the headliner) will have black ABS paneling, the same stuff I make my inside door panels out of.

Like this one I made and installed on Leo.
https://i.imgur.com/aSifoNI.jpg

JoeHall
10-07-2017, 02:23 PM
Its the attention to detail you are doing, that will make the car an excellent driver, with near show car appearance. Those ABS door panels are a PITA to cut out, but one done they make the panels look as new. I once worked on a high level restored 56J, someone had used high quality materials throughout for the interior. Those panels were high quality wood, same thickness at the ABS you are using. Though not, "correct", it was close enough, and I have never seen a more beautiful, quality interior in a 56J.

Congrats on having the energy to keep this project moving. I bet you are beginning to see a light at the end of the tunnel :)

Jerry Forrester
10-07-2017, 04:38 PM
Those ABS door panels are a PITA to cut out, but once done they make the panels look as new.

Yeah, they are a pain to cut but the end product is worth it. Moisture proof with no warping.


Congrats on having the energy to keep this project moving. I bet you are beginning to see a light at the end of the tunnel :)

At the ripe old age of 74 (a youngun' compared to some of the guys on this forum) I find it harder and harder to make myself git in thar an' do it.

r1lark
10-07-2017, 06:10 PM
Got some insulation installed yesterday. Got all the floorboards done that's gonna get done. The trunk is not gonna be insulated, it gets just a regular ole Studebaker trunk mat.


Jerry, what did you use for the insulation?

jclary
10-07-2017, 06:37 PM
This reminds me of one of my most "FUN" sales success stories. Many years ago, I got a call from my "In office sales co-worker," who had taken a call looking for several pneumatic "Automatic Feed Drill Motors." In addition to the drills, the customer would need help in designing the air logic controls. I went to the address and discovered that this was an engineering design firm that had moved south to escape unions and follow some of their tier one automotive supply customers. Their customer had apparently gotten the account to do door panels for Ford. They had asked this engineering firm to design the production tooling. Two of my competitors had already quoted the tooling, but were hung up on the controls. I was late to the game, but fortunate to get a glance at what the competition was proposing.

Everyone was thinking in terms of these very expensive "self-feed" drills, and all the air logic, tubing, fittings, etc. required to establish such a work station. I also managed to get a glance of the competition's pricing. They were pricing the drills almost to cost, and even if I got the order, there would not be much profit left to pay me a commission.:(

Instead, I simplified the design by offering pneumatic "Milling" motors, equipped with collets. Instead of individually advancing the drills to the door panel holes, we fixtured the drill motors, made a fixture mounted on air cylinders to place the plastic panel, and with one foot switch, advanced the part into the straight fluted rail bits and basically "punched" all the holes at once in about a second instead of the "slower feed rate" required with the self-feed drills. Controls were simpler, and I got the business at half the original proposal costs, with enough profit to pay a hefty commission. :!:

Not related to your excellent work Jerry...but if you ever decide to make several thousand of these in a couple of weeks...I can help!;)



The inside rear quarters will be insulated also. But first I have to cut the ABS panels that are going on there. If I put the insulation on first I won't be able to see where the mounting holes need to be.
Buttercup isn't going to have a back seat. I plan to do some traveling and that area will be used for suitcases and such. The entire rear cabin area (excepting the headliner) will have black ABS paneling, the same stuff I make my inside door panels out of.

Like this one I made and installed on Leo.
https://i.imgur.com/aSifoNI.jpg

Jerry Forrester
10-07-2017, 10:43 PM
Jerry, what did you use for the insulation?
Half of the insulation I used on this project is the same stuff you can get at Lowe's.
I ran out of that stuff half way through the project.
But a few years ago I ran upon a deal. Almost the same stuff but it has aluminum only on one side and plastic on the other and it's only half as thick. I double it up with aluminum towards the floor board and aluminum towards the cabin.
To answer your question, go to Lowe's and get it. Comes in 2 and 4 four widths. About 50 cents per square foot. Glue it down with spray adhesive of your choice.

Jeffry Cassel
10-08-2017, 08:39 AM
Rocker Schutz is paintable undercoating. The thing is the prep. If it doesn't stick it will do more harm than good. Looks like you are doing a great job. I have used the spray on bed liner with good results. The insulation I get at Menard's. Use it under steel roof to prevent sweating. Cost is 1/8 what car restoration folks ask for similiar stuff. Kudos!

benaslopoke
10-08-2017, 09:59 AM
I went to Harbor Freight and got a gallon of bed liner material.
https://i.imgur.com/LifdL2H.jpg

Coated the floorboard from the firewall to the trunk lid latch striker.

https://i.imgur.com/3zPilAV.jpg


Got about 80% done and ran out of material.
https://i.imgur.com/eACPm5s.jpg

Went back to Hazard Fraught and got another gallon. Finished the coating,
https://i.imgur.com/HbNJk1x.jpg

now I'll let that dry a couple days then I'll finish the insulation installation.



I've been following Buttercup from day one (and the others),, but I won't sleep until I know.. WHERE DID YOU FIND AND WHAT IS THAT TRANNY??

BEN

Jerry Forrester
10-08-2017, 11:31 AM
I've been following Buttercup from day one (and the others),, but I won't sleep until I know.. WHERE DID YOU FIND AND WHAT IS THAT TRANNY??

BEN

That is the original '55 three speed with overdrive tranny. I just installed a Jeep shifter on it. I didn't come up with this idea. Many people before me has done this.

swvalcon
10-08-2017, 11:43 AM
Jerry Looking good. Did you put the bed liner down with a brush? They make a undercoat gun that fits a qt can and you can just put the bed liner in the qt can with a paint stick. Sprays out nice. Not a big deal on the floors but would help in the trunk for looks. The price of $40 a gallon is cheap. The stufff I used on my hawk was just over a $100 but you could color tint it.

JoeHall
10-08-2017, 12:16 PM
I have coated several Studes with RinoLiner, everywhere I could access:inside doors and rear quarter panels, inside fenders, inside roof, floor from firewall to trunk, etc.. And it makes them MUCH quieter on the road. I use ultra high quality padding that is designed primarily as heat shield, but only in strategic places to reduce heat, i.e. floor boards. I never glue it down because, if it gets soaked, I lift the carpet and remove it to help dry everything faster.

Jerry Forrester
10-11-2017, 03:48 PM
Jerry Looking good. Did you put the bed liner down with a brush? They make a undercoat gun that fits a qt can and you can just put the bed liner in the qt can with a paint stick. Sprays out nice. Not a big deal on the floors but would help in the trunk for looks. The price of $40 a gallon is cheap. The stufff I used on my hawk was just over a $100 but you could color tint it.

Mostly I used a hi nap paint roller. Used a brush in places where the roller wouldn't go.