Has anybody done an article on rebuilding and improving a manual shift steering column? I want to keep the column shift, but I want it to be fluid and enjoyable as a floor shift. Is this realistic expectation?
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53-64 manual shift steering column improvement?
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I want to keep the column shift, but I want it to be fluid and enjoyable as a floor shift. Is this realistic expectation?
Yes, the column shift can be made less bad.
Maybe, start with new motor and transmission mounts. Until the platform is stable and correctly aligned, the linkage can't do its work. Then, replace all the grommets in the arms, a new collar on the steering column and possibly a new shifter arm and adjust per the Shop Manual.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Originally posted by AllstonEP View PostI have the ability to re-make the motor and transmission mounts out of urethane. Could maybe do the same for grommets if rubber. I wondering/thinking if redoing the linkage in beefier rods that might help too.
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wondering/thinking if redoing the linkage in beefier rods that might help too.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Agree with Jack (PackardV8) - total replacement of the shifting parts in the column, including the inner tube. This was done on my '54 and it shifts smoothly with two fingers.
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The later column is a bit shorter to accommodate the dished steering wheel. That will make some of the internal parts have different part numbers, but the design and therefore the weak/wear spots are essentially the same.
In other words, they are just as bad. You need to replace and lubricate the wearing parts, and adjust everything properly, and use it with a light touch.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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There are a lot of moving parts; turning, sliding, and pivot points in the column shifter from my observation. Stuff like this went to using cables on other makes long ago. Floor shifts in FWD cars for example. Could that be somehow done to a Stude column and would it make it better?
Jeff in ND
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Back in the day, thousands of little old ladies drive automobiles with 3-on-the-tree. Simply do a total disassembly, clean, lube, and replace any excessively worn parts, and it is good to go for at least 100,000 miles. I like to slather thin grease on all the wear points inside the column. Once done, shifting becomes a two finger operation, even with the heavy duty T85 transmission.
As for improved parts in later Studes, the shift collar on the later ones has much more meat around the shift hand lever's pivot pin. The collars are made of soft metal, and the earlier ones wore out quickly. When worn, the pivot pin (a simple roll pin) wallows out the hole, and allows the shift lever to lose its positioning, and twist back and forth. When it gets bad enough, you can feel the shift knob turn in your hand. ONLY use a later collar with the beefier pivot pin area.
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Along with the smaller parts mentioned, what ultimately gets destroyed as a result, on high mileage Cars is the Hole in the Shift Tube inside the Column Jacket as Paul mentions in Post #6.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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