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54 C body hood hinges. Washers or no washers?

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  • Body / Glass: 54 C body hood hinges. Washers or no washers?

    I have studied all 3 of my Stude manuals and still not clear. On the hood hinges, are there suppose to be washers on the hinge to hood mounting bolts that have the slotted lock nuts? Does anyone have a picture of the hood hinge. My car has 2 washers per bolt, one on each side of the hinge arm. I'm thinking this is wrong. I look at my 52 Champion and it has no washers. I'm having a helluva time adjusting the hood.
    1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

  • #2
    The chassis parts book lists 4 plain washers, 4 slotted nuts and 4 cotter pins. Unfortunately they don't show which side of the hinge the washers go in the picture.
    Dwight 54 Commander hardtop

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    • #3
      I appreciate the info. Thank you. The washers the body shop used on my 54 are double thickness. They put one on each stud first then the hood then another fat washer, then the lock nut. I can't get the lock nut down enough to expose the cotter pin hole. The hood seems to wide as it wants to sit on top of the rubber bumpers. I've been on the RayLin page to figure out how to get the fenders to move out wider. I have the fenders as far out as I can get them. It's better but my gap is 1/16" and the hood hangs up on the bumpers.








      Originally posted by 1954khardtop View Post
      The chassis parts book lists 4 plain washers, 4 slotted nuts and 4 cotter pins. Unfortunately they don't show which side of the hinge the washers go in the picture.
      1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

      Comment


      • #4
        A tip: You can adjust the left/right position of the hood by putting washers between the hood and hinge straps on 1 (one) side only. Had to do that with my car to get the hood centered. My recollection is there are normally no washers between hood/hinge. My tear down notebook is not accessible right now to verify. Don't recall if there were washers under the castle nuts.

        Jeff in ND

        Comment


        • #5
          It has been awhile since I've tinkered with a hood, and its hinges. If it were mine, I would raise the hood, place it on its prop rod, and proceed as follows. Place a mover's blanket or similar protection over the cowl, between the hood & firewall for protection. Loosen the castle nuts, but don't remove them. Then, take one of the hinge rods at a time, remove the nut, pull that rod loose, and take out the washer that is on the hood side. Place that rod back on, and use only a washer between the hood & nut. That should allow you to lock the nut with an appropriate size cotter pin. Do one rod at a time, and the same for the other side.

          With the nuts loose, there should be enough "wiggle room" for this to work. If not, remove both hinge rods on one side to get them off. It is very important to use some kind of thick blanket, or padding to protect from scratches. These hoods are heavy and will move around. It shouldn't be too difficult for one person to handle as long as you anticipate and properly protect your painted surfaces.

          As far as "fit" of the hood...I wouldn't expect removing or adding washers on the hinges to make much difference. Especially on those connection points. On the assembly line, there were "Fit & Finish" specialists. Those guys worked with shims and washers from the front radiator support fender mounts, inner fenders, all the way back to firewall mounts, which would include manipulating the mounting of the hinges and even bending parts to make them fit.

          Let us know how it works out for you.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

          Comment


          • #6
            I am trying not to confuse the issue but I have a W body (sedan)and the hinge is slightly different from a C, it doesn't have the hinge tie rod but the washer arrangement would be the same. Within the text to remove, reinstall and adjust they do not mention any washers.Click image for larger version

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            • #7
              John, thank you. Your thoughts and procedure is what I was daydreaming. The washers on my car are half dollar thick. I'll work one side at a time like you suggest. I was up and down on the garage floor a hundred times yesterday trying to tweak my hood. Since the fenders are new from Classic I expected it. My hood on the drivers side does not have the same contour as the fender. It sits proud. I think I'm going to have to bend the hood somehow. I thought of putting blocks of 2x4 at the front edge and rear edge of hood and try to bend the hood downward in the middle on that side. I'm I thinking sane?



              Originally posted by jclary View Post
              It has been awhile since I've tinkered with a hood, and its hinges. If it were mine, I would raise the hood, place it on its prop rod, and proceed as follows. Place a mover's blanket or similar protection over the cowl, between the hood & firewall for protection. Loosen the castle nuts, but don't remove them. Then, take one of the hinge rods at a time, remove the nut, pull that rod loose, and take out the washer that is on the hood side. Place that rod back on, and use only a washer between the hood & nut. That should allow you to lock the nut with an appropriate size cotter pin. Do one rod at a time, and the same for the other side.

              With the nuts loose, there should be enough "wiggle room" for this to work. If not, remove both hinge rods on one side to get them off. It is very important to use some kind of thick blanket, or padding to protect from scratches. These hoods are heavy and will move around. It shouldn't be too difficult for one person to handle as long as you anticipate and properly protect your painted surfaces.

              As far as "fit" of the hood...I wouldn't expect removing or adding washers on the hinges to make much difference. Especially on those connection points. On the assembly line, there were "Fit & Finish" specialists. Those guys worked with shims and washers from the front radiator support fender mounts, inner fenders, all the way back to firewall mounts, which would include manipulating the mounting of the hinges and even bending parts to make them fit.

              Let us know how it works out for you.
              1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

              Comment


              • #8
                I read that too. Then I started looking at pictures and I saw no washers in any illustrations. I thought as fat as my washer are that they could be what is causing the tightness. I know the hood flexes a lot and maybe these fat washers are forcing it out wider than it should be.




                Originally posted by altair View Post
                I am trying not to confuse the issue but I have a W body (sedan)and the hinge is slightly different from a C, it doesn't have the hinge tie rod but the washer arrangement would be the same. Within the text to remove, reinstall and adjust they do not mention any washers.[ATTACH=CONFIG]66619[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]66620[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]66621[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]66622[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]66623[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]66624[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]66625[/ATTACH]
                1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Jeff.



                  Originally posted by Jeff_H View Post
                  A tip: You can adjust the left/right position of the hood by putting washers between the hood and hinge straps on 1 (one) side only. Had to do that with my car to get the hood centered. My recollection is there are normally no washers between hood/hinge. My tear down notebook is not accessible right now to verify. Don't recall if there were washers under the castle nuts.
                  1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Something to think about -

                    On the "nut" side of the hinge strap -
                    The nuts have sharp points at each of the intersections of each hex flat. Each time the hood is moved, the strap and nut rub on each other, plus the general vibrations just driving down the road.

                    That said, for part protection, "always" use a washer anyplace that constant rubbing will wear into parts you want to keep in good condition. Washers are simple and cheap to replace.

                    Mike

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If you remove the washers from between hood and hinge, you may be surprised that the center of the hood edge, that you said you needed to bend, might just flex to where it needs to be. If you spread the back of the hood out, the center will pull in because the front of the hood is securley welded and the curve of the hood causes a flex point.
                      sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                      1950 Champion Convertible
                      1950 Champion 4Dr
                      1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                      1957 Thunderbird

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                      • #12
                        I'm removing the fat washers between the hood and hinge arm. I will place a regular washer upside the hex nut come my next days off. I will see what happens. Those fat washers together are 3/16th of a inch.




                        Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                        Something to think about -

                        On the "nut" side of the hinge strap -
                        The nuts have sharp points at each of the intersections of each hex flat. Each time the hood is moved, the strap and nut rub on each other, plus the general vibrations just driving down the road.

                        That said, for part protection, "always" use a washer anyplace that constant rubbing will wear into parts you want to keep in good condition. Washers are simple and cheap to replace.

                        Mike
                        1942 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan * 1952 Studebaker Champion Regal * 1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight * 1967 Thunderbird Hdtp * 1969 Continental Mark III * 1969 Mercury Marquis convertible * 1972 Buick Riviera * 1973 Continental Mark IV * 1978 Glass Top Lincoln Town Car * 1983 Mercedes 300SD * 1986 Dodge RAM 4WD * 1999 Infiniti Q45

                        Comment

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