Frame / Springs: Frame swap

[todd_wilkins]

Looking at swapping out the frame of my 63 lark to an 99 S-10 frame. Has any one done this with this same frame or any other?

[sals54]

I've not heard of it being done for a Lark, but have seen them done on the long wheelbase cars. The 120" wheelbase coupes and hardtop cars.
But I can't imagine it being very difficult to shorten an S-10 frame for the Lark. It certainly opens a very wide variety of suspension options that are not available on the Lark parts.

[SScopelli]

When you think it hasn't, it has..

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/custom-lifted-1962-studebaker/6270440981.html

[bensherb]

$40 grand !!!??? And it's painted with truck bed liner. I don't think so, not for me.

[wittsend]

At $40,000 does it come with a step stool for entry?

Noticed there was no sill plate at the carpet/lower door edge. Could that have anything to do with leaks constantly soaking the carpet?

[todd_wilkins]

Wow 40 k for that, not what I'm in too but someone is lol. Yes I could only get my hands on a regular can not extended so I'll have to stretch it 1". Might just back half it to make it easier.

[swvalcon]

I'll bet at 1" if you center it so only 1/2" on each wheel well it would still work. I would do a trial fit of the body before cutting frame. If need be they are easy to shorten or add to right at the rear just in front of the rear spring perch. They have a factory connection point there.

[jimmijim8]

The 2 nd generation s 10 would make a nice conversion I say this as I have had years of experience driving a 99 4 cylinder stick and a 6 cylinder auto. A comfy ride and the 6 will have a bit of power. More than you would expect. cheers jimmijim P.S. Make sure you cut to the proper wheelbase.

[thunderations]

If you plan to lower the car also, don't shorten to the original Studebaker wheelbase. Test fit the body with the frame one inch longer and see if it doesn't look better. When the tires are tucked up in the fenders, sometimes right looks wrong.

[todd_wilkins]

My son come over this weekend, if we can Dodge the rain I'll take some pics of our progress.

[Corley]

When I did my '54 Starliner, two issues became major issues to deal with. 1) the S10 rear springs are much longer, so the frame hump is much longer, and cuts into the floor significantly under the rear seat area. 2) The power steering gear is right where the radiator should sit, requiring a sloped radiator mount. However, the 4.3 V-6 is quite powerful, and with EFI is super reliable. I used the entire S10 wiring harness, so the S10 diagram is correct for the car.

Drives a dream, goes like skunk, super reliable, what's to not like? You will want to use front lowering spindles, about $150, and rear lowering blocks to get the ride height back down where it belongs. 1“ extra length on the frame may not be an issue at all, test fit, have a look, prior to cutting.

[todd_wilkins]

Well didn't Dodge the rain dam Harvey lol. Once I get it switched over we'll be running a SBC for a little added power. As of right now the floors are cut out so hopefully that will make it easier to test fit.

[thunderations]

Might consider using the S10 floor also and the lower part of the firewall to get the brake pedal and power brake unit mount.

[sweetolbob]

Might consider using the S10 floor also and the lower part of the firewall to get the brake pedal and power brake unit mount.

Good thought, Another option is to stiffen the Lark firewall with 6"X 3/16 plate and use the S10 brake assembly. Tie it into the dash brace and you can push as hard as you want with two feet. That's how I did my 54K but used a mid-80's Camaro/Firebird brake assembly. Bob