I notice slight up and down movement when I checked my bellcrank. There are a number of options available to remedy this. My question is, where would the most likely wear be in the unit? Since a Stock bellcrank is bushed, I'm hopeing the wear would be the bushings, and not the shaft. If my assumption is correct, would it simplely be a matter of using the Stock shaft, and replacing the bushings with roller bearings?
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First things first. Make sure it is the shaft moving, and not just the bellcrank. You may just get by tightening the pinch bolt. It HAS to be very tight.Bez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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After you make sure the pinch bolt is tight (60-65 ft-lb.) shaft end play is adjusted with shims. Clearance between lower thrust washer and bellcrank bracket .001" to .003" per Avanti shop manual. 1959-63 Passenger Car Shop Manual says "no end play but shaft should turn freely". Depending on your vehicle bellcrank may have either bushings or bearings.
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Most of the time the bearings are bad and often the shaft has wear marks or grooves on it as well. The problem is that the grease fitting hides in the rear of the frame cross member and never gets greased. Studebaker vendors sell a kit that has new bearings and a new shaft.RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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Originally posted by rbisacca View PostAfter you make sure the pinch bolt is tight (60-65 ft-lb.) shaft end play is adjusted with shims. Clearance between lower thrust washer and bellcrank bracket .001" to .003" per Avanti shop manual. 1959-63 Passenger Car Shop Manual says "no end play but shaft should turn freely". Depending on your vehicle bellcrank may have either bushings or bearings.
Like others said, find the exact location of the play before buying any parts or doing any disassembly. I have found that bellcrank bushings/bearings are often replaced when only the cinch bolt needs tightening. If the car has had the cinch bolt loose for much time, the shaft will become barrel shaped and the cinch bolt will not stay tight and a new or turned shaft is needed.Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View PostI saw that kit, along with the bearings only, and a rebuilt bellcrank (SI). I guess I'll wait to order whichever, when I can take the time to keep the car off the road for a few days.
Congrats on getting her on the road
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A '56 Sky Hawk would have originally had Torrington caged roller Bearings NOT Bushings.
Those started in 1963, unless someone replaced the Housing and Bearings with a "Bushing Housing" and Bushings, quite unlikely.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Put your finger on top of the bell crank, where the shaft comes through, and have someone gently turn the steering wheel back and forth 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If the bell crank is not tight enough on the shaft, you will feel the shift. Next, put finger on the bottom side, to feel the large washer and any sideways movement as someone gently turns the steering wheel again. If you feel the washer shift sideways, and/or up and down, it is the bearing and pin. The bearing and pin are available as a set, and if n doubt, swap yours out.
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Joe gives some good advice.
Is this the 17,000 mile Sky Hawk? You wouldn't expect much of any wear on the pin with that low a mileage. Wouldn't be surprised if you find a loose bellcrank bolt.
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