The bad news, at least financially, is that my 289 needs complete rebuilding. The machinist told me this is necessary because of whatever worked its way loose in the engine scattered parts throughout the cylinders. A re-bore to .060 plus a new cam rocker assembly is in store. the sad part is that the motor has run perfectly since I got the car nine years ago. He still doesn't know what caused this catastrophe. Do you think it's because I used that re-refined #2 home heating oil? Hey - I got a great deal!
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Didn't you say in another post that you drove the car 50+ miles after the engine started knocking? That could've done a lot of damage.
I remember a relative who once put cooking oil in his transmission. It didn't last too long.
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This month's TWs has a 1962 Hawk 289 V8 plus two transmissions for sale for $1000 OBO. I don't know how much for just the engine. There are probably others on this Forum that would sell you one. You could probably source one closer to you. A possibility is a rusty or bent, running car that you could have a swap done with and then junk the remains. For example, there is a 1964 Cruiser (289 V8) in this month's TW for $800 OBO, but it is in MT.
I would look for a good, running 289 V8 to put into your car rather than have someone (especially someone not familiar with Studebaker V8s) do a complete rebuild of your engine. Have you received a price and time quote (guaranteed)? I would really question someone who said that a running engine "...scattered parts throughout the cylinders."Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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I agree with Gary.It must need some work done to it, but the last thing that I would think could get damaged would be the rocker assy. I think that I would find somebody with more knowledge about Stude V8s to do your work.Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.
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A, "good running" engine in a 50+ year old Stude is a pig in a poke. If you plan to drive the car, I'd recommend having your motor rebuilt. SOunds like the guy you have located may be questionable, but there are several competent Stude re-builders identified on here, and one of them is Jack Vines. There are likely others nearer to you, but if nothing else, ship it to Jack V. in Spokane.
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Seems very odd that you would need a new rocker assembly. Follow Joe's advice and send it to Jack Vines. You won't be disappointed.
During the restoration of my car I bought a parts car that was very rusted but advertised as a good running engine. Guy even sent me videos of the car running so I could see that it didn't smoke, had good oil pressure and sounded good. So I bought it and had it shipped. Got the car and it seemed that everything was as advertised. A few weeks later I discovered that I should have ask him if he had the crankcase full of 90W gear oil. Once I drained that crap out, the engine started knocking. So Then I had it rebuilt by a local guy that had been in business a long time and said he had done Studes back in the day and it would not be a problem. Well he forgot to put the oil galley plug in. Once I finished assembly and started the car, it quickly ruined the crank and that engine started knocking. Finally I had Jack build me an engine and I have been driving happily for a year now. I actually had to switch to 10W-30 to get the oil pressure down a little. May end up with 5W-30 on the next oil change because pressure is still a little too high when cold.
Shipping the engine is not that expensive relative to the cost of an engine rebuild. You may find that Jack can supply a core and you don't have to ship your engine to him, unless of course you have a numbers matching engine that you want to keep in the car.Wayne
"Trying to shed my CASO ways"
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Originally posted by JoeHall View PostA, "good running" engine in a 50+ year old Stude is a pig in a poke. If you plan to drive the car, I'd recommend having your motor rebuilt. SOunds like the guy you have located may be questionable, but there are several competent Stude re-builders identified on here, and one of them is Jack Vines. There are likely others nearer to you, but if nothing else, ship it to Jack V. in Spokane.peter lee
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Originally posted by plee4139 View PostI agree with you. Why buy someone else's possible disaster in-waiting? No shipping to Spokane from Long Island.Skip Lackie
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Originally posted by DieselJim View PostOr rent a u-haul trailer and bring the car to me and I will install this engine while you visit The Studebaker National Museum and others in the area.
This sounds like the best idea yet. Plus you'd have a more modern, full flow motor. I'd trust Jim's rebuild as much as anyone on the planet. And he is practically in your back yard!
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This is the second mention in as many weeks of a "cam rocker." Having never heard that term before, and having worked on Studebakers since 1972, would someone please explain to me what a cam rocker is? is it a rocker arm? Is it the whole rocker arm and shaft assembly?
Or is it like the "lower push rod" that we talked about a few years ago (the poster meant connecting rod).RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostThis is the second mention in as many weeks of a "cam rocker." Having never heard that term before, and having worked on Studebakers since 1972, would someone please explain to me what a cam rocker is? is it a rocker arm? Is it the whole rocker arm and shaft assembly?
Or is it like the "lower push rod" that we talked about a few years ago (the poster meant connecting rod).Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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