Newbie with a few questions

[mdh157]

Hello,

I am a newbie...not to cars but to Studebakers. Can anyone explain how I can tell (or if i can) if the engine and trans are original on a 64 Daytona...also what the available rear ratios were and what the 4 speed trans ratios are. Also, is the trans on a 64 Synchronized or not?

Thanks you!

[RadioRoy]

Welcome to the Studebaker world.

The production order will give the information on how the car was built. They can be obtained from the Studebaker National Museum.

The available rear axle options should be listed in the shop manual or the chassis parts manual. The shop manual, along with the chassis parts manual and body parts manual are musts for full enjoyment of your new Studebaker, IMO.

[raoul5788]

Welcome to the forum!
You can get the original build sheet from the Studebaker National Museum which will have the engine number on it.

- - - Updated - - -

I see I was JUST a bit too slow!

[StudeRich]

Welcome to the SDC and to SDC Forum Mark.

The 4 Speed is a very common Borg Warner T-10 as used in Corvette, 409 Chev. 426 Dodge Hemi, Pontiac 389 & 421, Ford 406, and it is Synchronized in 1st. 2, 3 and 4.

Most '64's have the (3.54) 2.54 Ratio Low gear, wide Ratio T-10, the 2.20 Low, Close Ratio was used mostly on 1961-1962 Models.
A '64 also should have the Ford bolt pattern Case not the Chev. pattern that has the right hand lower bolt WAY out to the right.

The Standard/Optional Dana Spicer rear axle Ratios are 3.07, 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.09. 4.27, and 4.56.

The extra special order, very rare ratios were 2.87, 3.92 and 4.88, no one I know of has EVER found one Factory installed except on Paxton Products Division or Andy Granetelli Bonneville or "other" racing type Cars.

A 289 would USUALLY be Standard with 3.31 and the rest Optional, you can find your's by looking at it's Tag under the rear cover bolt at 8:00.
A Twin Traction Axle will have a Tag on the Right side with 45B, C, D or E to indicate ramp angle in carrier.

Check the Engine Serial Number STAMPED INTO the Flat machined Pad on the DRIVERS SIDE, front, Top corner of the Block, ignore raised in the casting numbers on the Right side, all castings & numbers of a given design and era are identical.

The V8 Engine I.D. List is here: http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/V8EngineID.asp

Please Note that ALL of the above is assuming your Car is original as built, unmodified.

UPDATE: corrections in Maroon, I have been driving 3, 4 and 5 Speed Manual Transmission Cars for 60 years and have yet to shift to reverse or Low gear at a roll, and all of my 3 speeds will not, so I did not know the 4 speeds could, never had the need.

Thanks Jack for the tip.

[mdh157]

thank oyu guys....for the record, I am not a studebaker owner yet but I am starting to look for one. I want a 4 speed, like sticks as they provide (IMO) a more engaging drive. There is a 64 daytona rag, 259 4 speed that I know of for sale, do not have any good pics so no idea what the real condition is.

[StudeRich]

If I were ordering a 259, 4 speed in a CONVERTIBLE, I would definitely order the 3.54 Ratio rear or MAYBE 3.31, and the Buyer, Dealer or Factory may very well have done that, as these are VERY heavy Cars!

[mdh157]

well if they are heavy how is the pick-up? I don't want a boat anchor either.

[studeclunker]

thank oyu guys....for the record, I am not a studebaker owner yet but I am starting to look for one. I want a 4 speed, like sticks as they provide (IMO) a more engaging drive. There is a 64 daytona rag, 259 4 speed that I know of for sale, do not have any good pics so no idea what the real condition is.

Well you are considering another marque than you are familiar with, then going in somewhat informed is a good idea. Here's a little more info for you: most Studee people don't much care about matching numbers as long as the engine under the hood is Studebaker. Hybrid cars are harder to sell than OEM powered cars. If you are keeping an eye on resale, keep it all Studebaker and you will do better. Either that or do a really good quality job. I really don't understand the philosophy that anything except Studebaker is more reliable because it's a false notion. Parts are plentiful and easy to come by for the most part. There are a few odd-bodkins, like some tail lights and trim pieces that were specific to particular years, and it is much easier to get parts for the Lark-types than the older cars. If you seek the help of a pro. Mechanic, make sure he knows Studebakers or RUN from him! Studebakers do not fit the paradigm of most mechanics. Hence, be careful of whom you ask for help.

Best of luck. Have you decided on a range of years you like best? There are any number of pictures posted in this forum. In fact, I do believe we even have a sub-forum for nothing but pictures of Studebakers.

[mdh157]

I like the 62-66 cars the best but I also have a soft spot for the late 40's Commanders, particularly because I fell in love with the one Edmund O'Brien was driving in DOA. A '47, I think? Would not mind having a hardtop 4 speed either from 62-66. Need something big enough to take the kids in and enough fun for me to want to drive it and forget my problems!

[studegary]

I like the 62-66 cars the best but I also have a soft spot for the late 40's Commanders, particularly because I fell in love with the one Edmund O'Brien was driving in DOA. A '47, I think? Would not mind having a hardtop 4 speed either from 62-66. Need something big enough to take the kids in and enough fun for me to want to drive it and forget my problems!

You can get a standard transmission that is column shifted (with or without overdrive). You will be greatly limited on selection/years if you just want four speed (floor shifter). Also, there were no hardtops in 1965-1966 model years.

[junior]

T-10's no synchro first gear? See learn something new everyday. I assumed all forward gears would be synchronized. cheers, Junior

[jackb]

The 259(V-prefix) in a ragtop runs better all around with 3.73 gearing.... unless on mostly "flat" terrain. You can fudge around with RPMS in a standard tranny with the 3.31 or better, but you will lack performance. The 289 (P-prefix) likes a 3.31 and will scream nicely with a 3.73 and standard tranny..get back to us with your spec car...

[PackardV8]

and of course it is Synchronized in 2, 3 and 4, no need on 1st. Gear or Reverse. . . . . Most '64's have the 3.54 Ratio Low gear,

Rich was just fat-fingering this one, as of course, he knows all four gears of the T10 are synchronized and the first gear ratio is 2.54.

jack vines

[greyben]

T10 ratios: 2.54, 1.89, 1.51, 1:1. It is fully synchronized. The convertible weighs about 250# more than sedans, not a huge dead weight. Unless special ordered the rear axle was most likely 3.31. The 259 is a lively engine. The 289 produces an advertised HP about 15% greater than the 259. 259 4 speed combos were relatively rare. If your primary concern is acceleration off the line and you do little highway driving the 3.73 is a good choice. It's going to be wound up pretty high at 70 on the freeway. The 3.31 ratio is a reasonable choice for highway cruising. Don't worry the 259 will pull the car adequately at least up to a 100 or so. "64 ragtops are relatively rare and would make a great restoration/driver.

[mdh157]

pics:

http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/mdh157/st2.jpg

http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/mdh157/st3.jpg

http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/mdh157/st1.jpg