Originally posted by 55 56 PREZ 4D
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61 Champ V8 259/ hasn't run in 20 years
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Kammy, if you don't have a shop manual at this time, Call Studebaker International at 317-462-3124 and order one. It will help you so much to have one. I have them on speed dial, LOL. http://www.studebaker-intl.com/Jim Kaufman
Kearney NE
1952 2R10
1953 Champion (sold it and still kicking myself)
1962 GT Hawk
1963 R3984 Avanti R1
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Originally posted by Never Enough Studebakers View PostKammy, if you don't have a shop manual at this time, Call Studebaker International at 317-462-3124 and order one. It will help you so much to have one. I have them on speed dial, LOL. http://www.studebaker-intl.com/
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Is this the one that was for sale in your area a few weeks ago. One of the California State Studebaker Champs. Hope you have better luck than I did trying to free up the stuck engine. I soaked mine 8 month a with a mixture of acetone and atf. Ended up tearing it down. Had to drive the pistons out. Had to replace the pistons and rings.
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Originally posted by DieselJim View PostIs this the one that was for sale in your area a few weeks ago. One of the California State Studebaker Champs. Hope you have better luck than I did trying to free up the stuck engine. I soaked mine 8 month a with a mixture of acetone and atf. Ended up tearing it down. Had to drive the pistons out. Had to replace the pistons and rings.
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Kammy, use the KISS principle,TW Champ is on the good money with bumping the starter.if that doesnt work pull starter and pry on flywheel teeth with long pry bar or crow bar (Rooster Bar). on carb, main jets need special tool to remove, available from Speedway Motors. When you get round to brakes use the green coated line from FLAPS it will bend much easier. Keep asking questions we are here to help!!! Luck Doofus
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Sounds to me like this unit was in a good state of tune when it was parked. Since this is one of the very best V8's ever made I'm confident it'll start up with a little TLC. Once she's running it's imperative that you completely flush the cooling system including the two rear drain plugs on either side of the block. You'll notice that this engine sits at an angle: lower in the rear. All the crud and debris builds up in this area and although the owner's service manual scheduled this drain yearly most chose to ignore it or did it but missed the two rear plugs or never bothered to read the manual in the first place. Don't overlook it as overheating will be the damaging end result. Best of luck!
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Originally posted by doofus View PostKammy, use the KISS principle,TW Champ is on the good money with bumping the starter.if that doesnt work pull starter and pry on flywheel teeth with long pry bar or crow bar (Rooster Bar). on carb, main jets need special tool to remove, available from Speedway Motors. When you get round to brakes use the green coated line from FLAPS it will bend much easier. Keep asking questions we are here to help!!! Luck Doofus
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Originally posted by T.J. lavallee View PostSounds to me like this unit was in a good state of tune when it was parked. Since this is one of the very best V8's ever made I'm confident it'll start up with a little TLC. Once she's running it's imperative that you completely flush the cooling system including the two rear drain plugs on either side of the block. You'll notice that this engine sits at an angle: lower in the rear. All the crud and debris builds up in this area and although the owner's service manual scheduled this drain yearly most chose to ignore it or did it but missed the two rear plugs or never bothered to read the manual in the first place. Don't overlook it as overheating will be the damaging end result. Best of luck!
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Originally posted by Kammy View PostDieselJim, it certainly could be? Did you know anything about this truck? I would love to find out more about it- I hope I have luck too in freeing it up- was yours sitting along time too? Thanks for the reply.
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Diesel Jim, firewall is a dark brown color. I've not tried to turn anything yet- Ive put marvel oil in plug holes, removed front grill and radiator so I could get to the crank bolt- I don't have a socket to fit that bolt so- I think I'm going to try what TWChamp suggest and tap the starter- I have a new battery- I did change one of the battery cables and I noticed the cable was grounded to the block. ? I do have a long bar I will try that too- sorry yours wasn't a easy fix. As much as I'm looking forward in getting this truck started I'm not in a hurry and want to do all I can not to break something. Thanks for your cell- where is the National meet? Sounds fun! Thanks for the reply and help too! Happy Easter
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Originally posted by Kammy View PostTW Champ- but I have the belt off the starter motor and fan shroud removed- shouldn't there be a belt on the lower crank shaft pulley?
No the Fan and Generator belts do not have to go back on to turn the engine.
The Battery Ground cable can ground anywhere that is metal on the Engine, Stude. engines ground to the Water Manifold, but could go to a Starter mounting bolt if you want.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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National Meet is in South Bend, May 10 to 13, car and truck show on the 13.http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...rnational-Meet
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