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61 Champ V8 259/ hasn't run in 20 years

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  • Engine: 61 Champ V8 259/ hasn't run in 20 years

    First, I would like to say I'm so glad I found this forum, so many of you that know the studebakers and so nice to know there are still so many of you that understand the older cars/trucks I've read so many post and it has taught me a lot already.
    I bought this 61 Champ for my business venture, it hasn't run in 20 plus years, the oil still looks new however I will change it. The points, condenser, rotor,distributor cap, oil/filters and plugs/wires had all been changed before it was placed in storage and all still look new. I have pulled the plugs and a few days again I added marvels mystery oil in each cylinder, I have removed each value covers and both sides are oily/clean looking. The radiator appeared empty when I looked inside however I pulled all hoses to replace them and there was antifreeze still in the lower part. Now I have read that I should hand crank the engine or turn the crankshaft bolt, and then some say not to use a breaker bar on the crank shaft bolt that is might break- I have also read where I should remove the distributor and use a drill to circulate the oil from there? Or am I understanding this correct? I have removed the radiator and front grill so I could get to that crankshaft bolt- I can not manually move that crank pully- I removed the belts thinking this would help. Should I be able to turn that pully by hand? This also has the Flightomatic automatic transmission in it. Would it make a difference if it's in park or neutral to move that pully?.
    Today I will drain the oil might check the pan to make sure it's clean before I add new. I have also read where I should do all brakes first- well I added brake fluid to the master just for fun, pumped it up and they are still holding, no leaks no runner rot? Is this normal- I will still look into new brakes I just really would like to see if I can get this truck started.
    Thank you all for being here- you have already helped this old lady out by reading your post. Yes I'm a 56 year old woman doing this so go easy on me. Have a great day.

  • #2
    Where are you located in Indiana?
    There maybe someone close that can help you.
    Is it a V8?

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    • #3
      I'd pull the dizzy and use the drill to circulate fresh oil till it shows pressure on a gage. It is OK to turn the engine by the crank bolt as long as you don't exceed the maximum torque for said bolt. Don't rush the unsticking operation if the engine is stuck.
      Lots of advice on this board for that problem.
      Never trust 20 year old brakes. They will let you down. I know this from experience. I should have learned that the first time.
      Where in Indiana are you.
      JT

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm just across the river in KY.

        It sounds like you've got a great start at what you need to do to get it running again, you're going in the right direction. You may have already done this...but look down into the carburetor and make sure a mouse or mud dobber hasn't built anything in there. If so, and you start cranking the engine, that stuff could get sucked into the engine. Also, make sure your throttle is free and snaps back to idle when you take your foot off. I would leave the plugs out for now and try to turn it over.... you can use a socket and bar on the front of the crank or put a battery in it and use the key. If it turns, you're in luck! At this point, if it's turning over, I'd change the oil. Then, I would also crank it with the key for a good 15 seconds or so, let it sit for a minute, crank it again for another 15 sec, let it sit, etc..... I would do that cycle 5 or 6 times. That will circulate and pressurize the oil system, get everything limbered up again so to speak, and spread the oil you've put in the cylinders around, etc.

        Once that's done, you're ready to put the plugs back in and see if she'll fire up! You're going to need to rebuild the carb too.... after 20 years of sitting it's going to need it. I'd definitely pull the wheels off and take a look at the brakes before you take off in it. You're probably going to end up needing to replace rubber hoses (fuel line and brake hoses) before it's "roadworthy".
        Lee
        1959 Lark VIII

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        • #5
          rkapteyn, yes it is the V8 I'm in Valparaiso Indiana thanks for the reply .

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          • #6
            Oilnsteel, oh yes I plan on having all brakes done! I just was excited to see if the master would still hold. Valparaiso Indiana. Thanks for the reply

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            • #7
              Chief 915ky, yes I have looked in the carb, I removed the Air filter canister and I am going to remove the carb and rebuild. I have a kit in order now. Yes I do plan to do all brakes hoses, lines-- I just got excited about testing the master for the heck of it--- I will take advise I will print and read as I go 😊thanks for the reply

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              • #8
                Originally posted by oilnsteel View Post
                I'd pull the dizzy and use the drill to circulate fresh oil till it shows pressure on a gage. It is OK to turn the engine by the crank bolt as long as you don't exceed the maximum torque for said bolt. Don't rush the unsticking operation if the engine is stuck.
                Lots of advice on this board for that problem.
                Never trust 20 year old brakes. They will let you down. I know this from experience. I should have learned that the first time.
                Where in Indiana are you.
                JT
                What's a "dizzy"? 🤔

                Comment


                • #9
                  Oh distributor ? =dizzy

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Kammy View Post
                    Oh distributor ? =dizzy
                    Yep, distributor.
                    Lee
                    1959 Lark VIII

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                    • #11
                      I would follow Lee's advice in #4, but I don't feel it's necessary to pull the distributor. It's amazing how the oil will stay on the bearings for a long time......much longer than the cylinder walls. With the straw that comes with most of the penetrating spray cans, you should be able to spray penetrating oil around inside the cylinder pretty well, then let it soak for a few days. I would click the starter a few times each day to see if the pistons will start moving. In extreme cases you can remove the starter and pry on the ring gear teeth for much move leverage to try to get the pistons moving.

                      One of my 1950 Champions I bought in 1980 with a stuck engine. After trying several times to free it up I finally removed the head, and was surprised how nice it looked inside. It was hard to believe that it was stuck.

                      One more thing that would be worth checking is the valves, to be sure they aren't stuck. In 1985 I bought a 1959 Renault Dauphine with a stuck engine, however the crankshaft would actually turn some, but not all the way around, because it has some stuck valves.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
                        I would follow Lee's advice in #4, but I don't feel it's necessary to pull the distributor. It's amazing how the oil will stay on the bearings for a long time......much longer than the cylinder walls. With the straw that comes with most of the penetrating spray cans, you should be able to spray penetrating oil around inside the cylinder pretty well, then let it soak for a few days. I would click the starter a few times each day to see if the pistons will start moving. In extreme cases you can remove the starter and pry on the ring gear teeth for much move leverage to try to get the pistons moving.

                        One of my 1950 Champions I bought in 1980 with a stuck engine. After trying several times to free it up I finally removed the head, and was surprised how nice it looked inside. It was hard to believe that it was stuck.

                        One more thing that would be worth checking is the valves, to be sure they aren't stuck. In 1985 I bought a 1959 Renault Dauphine with a stuck engine, however the crankshaft would actually turn some, but not all the way around, because it has some stuck valves.
                        TWchamp- I am taking in everyone's advice makes me feel as if I can do this- I was told to keep adding a little more marvels to the sparkplug holes every couple days- would it hurt to spray something under those valve covers as well?
                        I have confirmed that crankshaft bolt is a
                        1-1/2" so I have one called in at the local parts store I don't have one that big-
                        Thank you for the reply- also my dad had a dauphine renault- fun little car I loved the horns.

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                        • #13
                          The distributor turns counterclockwise on a Studebaker V8.
                          Is the oil pump designed to pump in either direction or does it have to be turned counterclockwise to build pressure ?
                          South Lompoc Studebaker

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                          • #14
                            KAMMY YOU ROCK!!!! We'll all get this baby running again!!!
                            Jim Kaufman
                            Kearney NE

                            1952 2R10
                            1953 Champion (sold it and still kicking myself)
                            1962 GT Hawk
                            1963 R3984 Avanti R1

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Never Enough Studebakers View Post
                              KAMMY YOU ROCK!!!! We'll all get this baby running again!!!
                              Jim!! Thank you! With everyone's help and knowledge is so very helpful!

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