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Thoughts on Oil Additives

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  • #31
    Highly recommend 'voxnut's' choice~!

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    • #32
      A friend of mine who is a mechanic by profession has one of those small Chevy Pick-up trucks with just a shade over 400,000 miles on it. The engine has never been down. Pennzoil is a sponser for his roundy-round car. He changes the oil in his pick-up regularly and does not believe in additives.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by colt45sa View Post
        A friend of mine who is a mechanic by profession has one of those small Chevy Pick-up trucks with just a shade over 400,000 miles on it. The engine has never been down. Pennzoil is a sponser for his roundy-round car. He changes the oil in his pick-up regularly and does not believe in additives.
        Yep. Well designed engines, given reasonable care, last a long time. They *might* last just as long if you add some SuperSpecialSlickum additive. Or not.

        I don't know about all oil manufacturers, but I do know that Exxon-Mobil and Chevron have a large staff of engineers who formulate the best possible lubricants. If there were something better, they would use it.

        The zillions of Overhaul-In-A-Can and Save-Your-Engine stuff are small time guys who don't have 1% of the knowledge as the major refiners.

        I knew the guy, now long deceased, who owned TuffOil, supposedly a teflon lubricant so good you could add a pint to your oil and then drain the radiator and drive the car. He didn't know snot from Shinola about lubrication, but he knew how to pitch a product. And he laughed all the way to the bank.

        Your car, your money.

        Say...what do high dollar manufacturers, Ferrari, Rolls Royce and race car mechanics use?

        Hint - It's not Amsoil, Rislone, Engine Rebuild in a can, or...do I dare say it, STP.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by T.J. lavallee View Post
          I have an 05' Hyundai Accent with 341,00 miles on the original 1.6 4 banger. Runs great and burns no oil. Know what additive I've used? None. Just the factory recommended oil viscosity.: 10w40. I've used Walmart's Super Tech at every 3,500 mile oil & filter change. My 84' Harley FLT has 241,000 miles. I use Harley's recommended 20W50 oil and change it and filter every 3,500 miles. It runs great and uses no oil. Additives? We don't need no stinkin' additives. Routine oil changes with filter is all you need. Save your money!
          Which is great to use the recommended lubricant in your machines. However, old engines - particularly with with solid lifters - need oil with zinc in it, and modern oil doesn't really have much if any. Hence the classic car oils, or a ZDDP additive.

          More reading if you are interested. https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...07/Classic-Oil
          Dean Seavers
          Sacramento, CA

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          • #35
            Originally posted by voxnut View Post
            Which is great to use the recommended lubricant in your machines. However, old engines - particularly with with solid lifters - need oil with zinc in it, and modern oil doesn't really have much if any. Hence the classic car oils, or a ZDDP additive.

            https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...07/Classic-Oil
            No, I am not interested.

            An article by Carl Heideman? Look at who is paying him: Brad Penn Oil, Driven Racing Oil, Classic Car Motor Oil Company.

            He's a shill for the people who pay him to promote their snake oil.

            Heck, pay me and I'll promote banana peels and sawdust to quiet down noisy gearboxes.


            I own a 1959 Austin Healey Sprite. I don't know how many miles it has been driven since I've only owned it for 30 years. The engine has been rebuilt once. It has solid lifters and has never had any ZDDP or other miracle additives. And it runs just fine with no measurable cam or lifter wear.

            And it has been on unleaded ethanol for twenty years. No valve seat recession, no cam or lifter wear.

            But I'm no engine expert, however there are some engine experts on this forum, for example Jack Vines. Jack hasn't had anything to say on this thread, but I'll bet he doesn't add ZDDP or any other miracle to his engines.
            Last edited by jnormanh; 03-23-2017, 03:24 PM.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by jnormanh View Post
              /Cut/I own a 1959 Austin Healey Sprite. I don't know how many miles it has been driven since I've only owned it for 30 years. The engine has been rebuilt once. It has solid lifters and has never had any ZDDP or other miracle additives. And it runs just fine with no measurable cam or lifter wear.
              And it has been on unleaded ethanol for twenty years. No valve seat recession, no cam or lifter wear./Cut/
              There is only one problem with your little "Test".

              Actually you HAVE been using a good deal of ZDDP for about 21 of those 30 Years, since the significant amount for flat tappet Engines was only removed in Nov. 2007 from all U.S. Oils, a much longer interval will tell the real story.
              StudeRich
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner
              SDC Member Since 1967

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              • #37
                Break in oil for new or reground cams has extra zddp. I think I will continue to use VR1 or something like it until someone proves different. As for other additives, I have not ever used them so I can't really say. I could open a whole can of worms with fuel additives though. Stabil and seafoam, in my mind, really do seem to do what they claim. As Jack Vines says your results may vary......
                1962 Champ

                51 Commander 4 door

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                • #38
                  I can tell you that Sea-Foam works wonders. In the 80's I bought a fully loaded 3 year old Cutlass real cheap because it sounded like it had a rod out. I dropped the pan and removed all the rod bearings, but they looked great. As long as they were out I put in new ones anyway. Next I pulled both valve covers to check the plastic rocker buttons, and found a few broken, so I replaced those but still had the bad engine noise. I then decided to try Sea-Foam for sticking lifters. I put the can in at the store, and before I got home the engine was as quiet as a new one.

                  My Champion uses more oil than it should, so I'll try a can of STP before I hit the roads this spring. Still waiting for 2 good rains to wash off the road salt.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                    There is only one problem with your little "Test".

                    Actually you HAVE been using a good deal of ZDDP for about 21 of those 30 Years, since the significant amount for flat tappet Engines was only removed in Nov. 2007 from all U.S. Oils, a much longer interval will tell the real story.
                    If you're correct, then I've been running this "flat tappet" engine for 8 or 9 years on those terrible modern oils which will destroy it. It's not happening. Valve clearances are still in spec. since the last adjustment 5 or 6 years ago.

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                    • #40
                      Studebaker engines with the exception of the R engines use fairly low pressure valve springs and mild cams. Because of that, I don't know that the ZDDP issue is a big one in most of our engines. The issue with ZDDP will become more apparent with the use of high lift and high pressure valve springs in the high performance engines. The use of too much ZDDP can be just as bad for the engine as it can become an abrasive in large quantities. Camshaft problems started in the late 60's into the 70's when every auto manufacturer started the building really high horsepower engines that used the high lift, long duration, high spring pressure cams. The Studebaker engines in fairly stock form do not fall into that category. I've seen flat tappet cam engines that have been run on the modern oils for years with no ill effects. Bud

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
                        I can tell you that Sea-Foam works wonders. In the 80's I bought a fully loaded 3 year old Cutlass real cheap because it sounded like it had a rod out. I dropped the pan and removed all the rod bearings, but they looked great. As long as they were out I put in new ones anyway. Next I pulled both valve covers to check the plastic rocker buttons, and found a few broken, so I replaced those but still had the bad engine noise. I then decided to try Sea-Foam for sticking lifters. I put the can in at the store, and before I got home the engine was as quiet as a new one.

                        My Champion uses more oil than it should, so I'll try a can of STP before I hit the roads this spring. Still waiting for 2 good rains to wash off the road salt.
                        Interesting. I have heard horror stories about SeaFoam destroying engines in minutes, and for that reason i've never used it.

                        -George-

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by reichsrundfunk View Post
                          Interesting. I have heard horror stories about SeaFoam destroying engines in minutes, and for that reason i've never used it.

                          -George-
                          Way back when, before Seafoam, folks would use Coca-cola or just plain water. Wind the engine to a few thousand rpm and dump some down the carb. Either would violently vaporize to steam and sometimes blow loose built up carbon and other gunk. And sometimes the extreme pressure would destroy engines.

                          I can't imagine why an engine in decent condition and reasonably well tuned would ever need such violent treatment. A tune up, fresh oil and filter change and a hundred miles on the highway might do the same job with little risk.

                          But for a crappy old engine full of carbon and oil deposits, maybe it'll clean it up temporarily.

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