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  • #61
    Got my CRT dist. this morning, ordered it on March 9. Delivery date was March 20, so very speedy delivery. If it works as good as it looks, I'll be very happy. Looks the same as the MAXX unit. Gonna see about getting a spare cap, rotor and module. It'll be a while before I can install it, my car is stored 'till sometime in April.- Jim

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    • #62
      I just installed a Dave T distributor in my R2 and right out of the box it made a huge difference, replacing an older Delco window style unit that came with the car. I realize these new replacements are pretty cheap but I know Dave's unit works. Just sayin'...

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      • #63
        Has anyone made the Tac work with this distributor.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by StudeNorm View Post
          I just installed a Dave T distributor in my R2 and right out of the box it made a huge difference, replacing an older Delco window style unit that came with the car. I realize these new replacements are pretty cheap but I know Dave's unit works. Just sayin'...
          How much did you pay for the one from Dave T?

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          • #65
            Don't know if it works, but there is a wire labeled tach.- Jim

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            • #66
              It's been quite awhile since I've been on here, but I saw this and just finished putting together an HEI distributor from a Prestolite bottom and a Chevy top. Now before you pitch the distributors, if there's a function on the Sun Distributor Machines to get it to run clockwise, do that first, and see if the advance works. The Studebaker distributors run counterclockwise, instead of clockwise. What results in using a Chevy HEI distributor in a counterclockwise application, is the mechanical advance doesn't work, which causes the timing to run retarded. The weights need to swing outwards when the distributor is spinning, which they won't do if the orientation is wrong. The distributors that would be more suitable for the Studebaker would be the Buick, Oldsmobile, or Pontiac V8 HEI distributors, because they run counterclockwise.
              The alternative to this, is to pull apart the HEI distributors, and flip the mechanical advance weights around, which is what I had to do with my distributor. I also had to use a Pontiac vacuum advance, but I'm not sold on if that's necessary yet or not.

              The first photo shows the documentation for a Chevy clockwise application, and the second photo shows what the weights should look like in a counterclockwise application.

              Click image for larger version

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              1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
              1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
              1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
              1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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              • #67
                Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
                How much did you pay for the one from Dave T?
                I answered that question in a previous post.

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                • #68
                  One last question, can't find any mention of plug gap. Is .060 about right? -Jim

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by 5brown1 View Post
                    I answered that question in a previous post.
                    If you are talking about post #26, all I can say is, YOWWWW ! LOL

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                    • #70
                      I was on Dave T's sight recently, and the mallorey was $369. I'm still leaning that direction, as it is more ' tried and true', and parts might not be such a hassle.
                      Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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                      • #71
                        When I ordered the distributor there were no other options and I ended up paying some pretty big coin, but the proof is in the pudding, so to speak, and the car revs and pulls all the way to the next shift point. Other than now having some starting issues (seems to want to flood, or maybe it is starving?) I don't think I need to worry about spark after this. It would have been nice to get the sparker at the price listed in #70 but that isn't how it works. Since it is still winter up here I will have to wait before I can tweak and tune the springs and limiters for best response.

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                        • #72
                          No hassle to order parts, I just ordered a spare cap, rotor, and module direct from CRT. $70.00 inc. shipping.- Jim

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                          • #73
                            Interesting thread so far...I just hope that everyone that is going to install these in the next month or two posts their results. I would like to see some good conclusion to this thread.
                            Jim Kaufman
                            Kearney NE

                            1952 2R10
                            1953 Champion (sold it and still kicking myself)
                            1962 GT Hawk
                            1963 R3984 Avanti R1

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                            • #74
                              For sure Jim. Some real world results drivability, fuel mileage, power, etc. would be great!
                              Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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                              • #75
                                Originally posted by Dan White View Post
                                I think another poster noted that they are $20.

                                The MAXX modules are $39.00 / I couldn't find them on the CRT site..

                                - - - Updated - - -
                                64 GT Hawk (K7)
                                1970 Avanti (R3)

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