Originally posted by 63t-cab
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'51 Land Cruiser
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Finally looking at this thread and noted the AC with still 6V.
Although its possible the compressor clutch may engage on 6v, I think it could be doubtful. If there are 6v coils available for these, I suspect the current draw is pretty high. The magnetic pull-in force created in a clutch coil with all else being equal is proportional to current squared x turns squared:
F proportional to I^2 x N^2
Ohms law also applies here so I = V/R
For something running on 6V instead of 12V w/o changing anything else you get 1/2 the current and I^2 of 1/2 the current is 1/4 the force to pull-in the clutch.
You can rewind the coil to use larger wire to reduce the resistance but that takes more space. You can increase the number of turns as N^2 adds up too. But, more turns means more space needed or use finer wire but that makes R go up what makes I go down.....
You can see where this goes. Tradeoffs. I would expect a 6V coil vs a 12V coil has some combo of both larger gauge wire to reduce resistance and more turns to get the same pull-in. All that said, I expect in the end it takes more current from the car electrical system compared to a 12v coil.
All this above rambling goes to why 12v replaced 6v and some years ago there were serious work on going with 36v in new cars (no longer a thing) since load demands of all the accessories is going up and up.
I didn't see if this car has a alternator (there are 6v ones available) or the original generator.
Jeff in ND
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Originally posted by Jeff_H View PostFinally looking at this thread and noted the AC with still 6V.
Although its possible the compressor clutch may engage on 6v, I think it could be doubtful. If there are 6v coils available for these, I suspect the current draw is pretty high. The magnetic pull-in force created in a clutch coil with all else being equal is proportional to current squared x turns squared:
F proportional to I^2 x N^2
Ohms law also applies here so I = V/R
For something running on 6V instead of 12V w/o changing anything else you get 1/2 the current and I^2 of 1/2 the current is 1/4 the force to pull-in the clutch.
You can rewind the coil to use larger wire to reduce the resistance but that takes more space. You can increase the number of turns as N^2 adds up too. But, more turns means more space needed or use finer wire but that makes R go up what makes I go down.....
You can see where this goes. Tradeoffs. I would expect a 6V coil vs a 12V coil has some combo of both larger gauge wire to reduce resistance and more turns to get the same pull-in. All that said, I expect in the end it takes more current from the car electrical system compared to a 12v coil.
All this above rambling goes to why 12v replaced 6v and some years ago there were serious work on going with 36v in new cars (no longer a thing) since load demands of all the accessories is going up and up.
I didn't see if this car has a alternator (there are 6v ones available) or the original generator.
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the AC compressor clutch was taken to a local electric shop and modified to work on 6 volts.
I do like that shade of maroon used in those years of cars. Seems like 90% of the un-restored survivor cars of the 47-52 era are some shade of green from what I see when they turn up around this part of the country.
Jeff in ND
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I purchased Jim Turner's front disc and dual M/C setup, and got the rotors and calipers installed today. Tomorrow and Monday I'll get the dual M/C setup installed and run new brake lines throughout, and redo the stock rear brakes.
Most of the front end shiny stuff was getting a little ratty, so I installed a pair of NOS grilles, an NOS bullet, and a pair of our repro headlight bezels. A Land Cruiser needs its bling.
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Well, I didn’t get the brakes done. Ran into some problems with Turner’s kit and the master cylinder I ordered was boxed wrong. The next couple of weekends will be busy so it’ll be a couple of weeks before I get back to the car. Ah well!
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Matt,
She's got plenty of bling, it just needs to be in as good a shape as possible. Otherwise the bling goes blang.
The only other thing to make that beauty any prettier is to park it in front of my house and my name on the title. For me, that shade of red is breath taking and really exemplifies the era.
Ken
Originally posted by mbstude View PostI purchased Jim Turner's front disc and dual M/C setup, and got the rotors and calipers installed today. Tomorrow and Monday I'll get the dual M/C setup installed and run new brake lines throughout, and redo the stock rear brakes.
Most of the front end shiny stuff was getting a little ratty, so I installed a pair of NOS grilles, an NOS bullet, and a pair of our repro headlight bezels. A Land Cruiser needs its bling.
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Originally posted by spokejr View PostMatt,
She's got plenty of bling, it just needs to be in as good a shape as possible. Otherwise the bling goes blang.
The only other thing to make that beauty any prettier is to park it in front of my house and my name on the title. For me, that shade of red is breath taking and really exemplifies the era.
Ken
Some early Christmas presents are starting to arrive.. Just received all of the wiring from Lark Works; less than 5 weeks from ordered to delivered. Clothed wrapped and exactly as it should be. Each wire is tagged and matches up with a dirt simple schematic for installation. I'm actually looking forward to putting it in, and I hate electrical work.
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Originally posted by mbstude View PostJust received all of the wiring from Lark Works;Brad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
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Let me know
Originally posted by mbstude View PostThanks! I've always thought that the '47-52 cars looked their best when painted a dark color. I don't think I've seen another Black Cherry '51 LC.. It suits the car well.
Some early Christmas presents are starting to arrive.. Just received all of the wiring from Lark Works; less than 5 weeks from ordered to delivered. Clothed wrapped and exactly as it should be. Each wire is tagged and matches up with a dirt simple schematic for installation. I'm actually looking forward to putting it in, and I hate electrical work.
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Thanks Sam, but as I said before, this car isn't for sale.
More new parts are showing up. I talked to Tom Shrock a month or so ago, and somewhere in the conversation he said, "tomorrow is my 82nd birthday. And one of these days I'd like to retire!" Thinking that maybe I should take advantage of the Shrocks services while it's still being offered, I asked him to do a wheel for the '51. It's perfect.
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Originally posted by tim333 View PostI have the same car. What was the cost of the wheel repair? You can PM me if you don’t want to post it.John Clary
Greer, SC
SDC member since 1975
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Originally posted by tim333 View PostI have the same car. What was the cost of the wheel repair? You can PM me if you don’t want to post it.
Scroll down, the ‘51 wheel is towards the bottom. $800 cast onto your core.
Like John said, what they do is more of a remanufacture than a repair. The wheels are cast in a colored urethane that should last forever.
Here's another one that they recast earlier this year.
Last edited by mbstude; 09-07-2018, 03:35 AM.
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