Paint: First vintage truck... a Studebaker

[mkibler]

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I just bought a wonderful, all-original 1951 2R pickup with no rust on it. This is my very first vintage vehicle, something I have wanted for many, many years~! Aside from putting radial tires on it and fixing the lights, it needs very little.

My plan is to fix it up to 'almost new' condition with original parts and colors, etc. It would like to have the body taken off and do the frames and all.

Where would the experts-- all you guys who I admire and who have done this many times before-- recommend that I start with having my truck repainted? I will have to have this done because my body shop skills are nil. What would I expect to pay for a top-notch paint job? Who would you recommend to do this in the greater Cincinnati/Dayton/Columbus area?

Finally, what carburetor can I put on a 2R (3 speed, no overdrive) for smoother engine function?

Thank you,

Mark

[RadioRoy]

Congrats on your new toy and welcome to the forum.
Personally, I would do all the mechanical work first and then paint the truck. If you paint the truck first, then scratch it while doing the mechanical work... you will have a scratched truck.

Fix or replace the original carburetor. Add an overdrive if you can find one.

You do not need to redesign this truck to make it operational, just bring it up to original specification.

Here is my best advice in no particular order.

-buy the shop manual, the chassis parts catalog and the body parts catalog. They show all the parts, what their correct name is and the part number. Studebaker vendors use these part numbers to assure that you get the correct parts.

http://studebakervendors.com/

-Start slowly, learn your vehicle. Get it stopping and running, drive it and fix the little things that need to be fixed as you learn.

-For some reason, replacing systems with parts from other brands of cars seems to be the first thing that comes to mind for a new-to-Studebaker owner. But the vehicle does not need to be re-designed with parts from another brand. If you bring everything up to specification, re-bush the bushings and so on, you will have a reliable, well running and well driving vehicle. Studebaker engineers were professionals who knew what they were doing.

-do not take the vehicle apart. It's the thing that everyone seems to think of, BUT... It is one hundred times easier to take something apart than it is to put it back together. Leave the ground up restorations to the pros with the tools, knowledge and money to complete the task.

-Whenever you do disassemble something, do it with the idea in mind that you have to put it back together again. If you disassemble something, lay the parts out in the order they came off. Then, put them back on in the same order. That alone will save you lots of grief.

[jclary]

Great advice from Roy (experience). Easiest way I know to end up with a "parts" truck, is to take it apart. I love your enthusiasm. But, don't allow the enthusiasm to rush you into trouble. Take your time, gather some materials, but just as important, MAKE SOME FRIENDS. In your region, there are fellow Studebaker enthusiasts that you would be wise to seek their council. However, you know what you want, like, and only you can develop a plan that works for you. There has become a big trend in what folks call the "SURVIVOR" look, especially for pick up trucks. From the picture you posted, your's seems like a great survivor look candidate.

First thing I would recommend for you is to buy copies of the factory manuals, shop, body & chassis, so you have proper procedures for working on the truck, and part names & numbers for ordering parts. Look for an overdrive transmission, and if you find one on a "parts" truck, try to get the drive shaft, cables, kick down switch, accelerator linkage, etc., at the same time. Carburetors, and carburetor rebuild services can be found. Main thing is don't get in a rush. Learn the components, gather knowledge, and develop a plan. In my opinion, Studebaker trucks are among the most durable, simple, and "honest" vehicles they ever made. Once you accept these vehicles as the basic utilitarian vehicles as they were designed, you can have years of enjoyable ownership. Best wishes for you and welcome to our group.

[kamzack]

I'd suggest getting all mechanicals in top shape. Have generator, starter checked out. rebuild complete brake system including hard lines, flex lines and shoes. As Roy said, if it doesn't have overdrive trans, they're out there. Will make it more drivable speed wise. all electrical, gauges. Then I'd drive it for awhile. Get very familiar with it so you know every squeak and groan. You'll learn more about it by driving it and will help you decide how far you want to go in the restoration. Pic shows a nice looking truck. Enjoy da drive.
Kim

[mkibler]

Thanks for the input and sage advice guys. I'm eager to hear what others have to say. I like the 'take it slow-and-easy' advice and the concept of a survivor truck. This fits my ideas and my timeline )and budget) well.

[studegary]

Welcome to the SDC Forum and the wonderful world of Studebakers! Join the Studebaker Drivers Club (from this site).

I would concentrate on safety and reliability items first.

I would not paint that truck. For one thing, repainted no would know what a rust free original it is.

I am confused. Your location states "New Hampshire", yet you are looking for shops in Ohio.

[TWChamp]

RadioRoy nailed it. I learned years ago to not rush into a project and take it all apart. Keep it drivable as you fix one thing at a time. If you want to restore the generator, then do it one weekend and put it back on. Do the same with the starter, brakes, carb, etc. Keep it drivable, so you don't wind up with a parts pile that never gets put back together. That truck looks so good as a nice survivor, that I wouldn't repaint it.

[Commander Eddie]

I'll add my welcome to you here, Mark. I own an original Studebaker truck and I love it. In fact, it is my "rock". Whenever I need a dependable, solid, reliable, (and good looking) truck for travel or work I climb in to my Champ. I fix things as they need it, and make improvements as I have the money, with original parts. These machines, if maintained, are just as good today as they were when new, and a heck of a lot more fun to drive than a new truck, in my opinion. Take it slow as advised above. Learn about your truck and how it was built, fix it up over time and just enjoy it.

[Ron Dame]

I was going to put my two cents in, but everyone beat me to it. Even if you had a frame off restoration done,would you enjoy it as much, or always be afraid of that dreaded first scratch? Congrats, on your new purchase, do what the above mention, and start enjoying the truck.

[Skip Lackie]

I can't add any wisdom to the excellent responses above. But I will reinforce the recommendation to purchase a copy of the 2R shop manual and the 49-56 truck parts book (contains both body and chassis) before you embark on anything major. Original copies come up for sale regularly on eBay and copies, both paper and on CD, are available from many of the vendors mentioned by Roy in post #2. There are some originals listed on eBay right now:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Studebaker+truck&_sc=1&_sop=1&_sticky=1&_osacat=6000&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XStudebaker+truck+-fits.TRS0&_nkw=Studebaker+truck+-fits&_sacat=6000

Edit: here's a raggedy but apparently complete parts book for sale cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Studebaker-Truck-Parts-Catalog-1941-1956-Rough-Shape-Old-Book/192400016459?hash=item2ccbef444b:g:SUUAAOSwGzhaNE1V&vxp=mtr

Some history on 2R-series trucks here:

http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/StudebakerTruckHistory.asp

Good luck with your truck.

[studegary]

I'll add my welcome to you here, Mark. I own an original Studebaker truck and I love it. In fact, it is my "rock". Whenever I need a dependable, solid, reliable, (and good looking) truck for travel or work I climb in to my Champ. I fix things as they need it, and make improvements as I have the money, with original parts. These machines, if maintained, are just as good today as they were when new, and a heck of a lot more fun to drive than a new truck, in my opinion. Take it slow as advised above. Learn about your truck and how it was built, fix it up over time and just enjoy it.

This reminds me of a friend with a tired looking, but reliable, Studebaker pickup. One day, he had it parked in front of the Mercedes-Benz dealership. They asked him to move it. He explained that it wouldn't be there if his 'Benz was running. He was at the dealership in his trusty Studebaker to get parts to make his 'Benz run. And, no, he didn't move it until he was ready to leave.

[mkibler]

This is all great advice and it's good to see that it's consistent advice, too. Interestingly, one of the first things I did was order a shop manual from eBay. Next on my list is getting five 235x85x16 radials to replace the 6.50 x 16LT bias ply tires that are on the truck. And of course I need to figure out how to wire the lights (though it may just be a switch or a relay?)

The truck runs OK and the carb was just rebuilt, But I would like to 'smooth it out' because it doesn't high-idle so well. Maybe just replace the carb?

I'd also like to have an overdrive transmission installed as you guys suggested but I have no idea what this involves and what it costs to have it done once I locate one. Consider it on the to-do list.

Three final questions for the experts:

Did this model 2r come equipped with a horn?

Can a Studebaker stock spin-on oil filter be added?

When I charge a positive ground 6 volt battery do I connect 'red-to-red'? Or do I put the negative battery charging clamp (black) on the positive (red) battery ground terminal? Dumb, I know. But better to ask.


To StudeGary:

We have a home in New Hampshire and we own a farm and some hunting land in Ohio. My truck is in Ohio. Anyone there from southwestern Ohio...?

Thanks, guys

[studegary]

Yes, it came with a horn.
A spin on filter can be adapted to it, but it would still be partial flow. It would not be worth the time and expense to replace a cartridge unit. Or, do you not have any filter now?
When you charge, keep positive to positive (red) and negative to negative (black). Be sure the charger is set for 6 volts (some new chargers are only 12 volts).

[Skip Lackie]

What Gary said. 2R trucks came standard with a single horn. Dual, more modern-sounding horns were optional. The single horns are not that hard to find -- I might even have one that works. The correct dual horns are more difficult to find.

The optional oil filter was the cartridge type. The filters are still readily available.

[mkibler]

Paint

What Gary said. 2R trucks came standard with a single horn. Dual, more modern-sounding horns were optional. The single horns are not that hard to find -- I might even have one that works. The correct dual horns are more difficult to find.
cart
The optional oil filter was the cartridge type. The filters are still readily available.

Skip Lackie,

There seems to be nothing on the engine to put the filter cartridge in. The engine/case looks like the one in the attached photo (not my engine.)

I would be interested in trying (or buying?) the horn you might have. Let me look and see what's there and what isn't for a horn mechanism. I assume the horn button is in the middle of the steering wheel?