Originally posted by junior
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Excellent suggestion!! Will do. I always (as a machinist) smooth/debur all sharp edges but a nice radius on the edges of the plates (where they contact the floor) would go a long way in making it better....and it doesn't cost a dime!!!
Here are some pics of the Chevy seat rails. As you can see the outboard bolts go into a pocket. The pocket has a hole which prevents you from using a bolt with a large head (like a 1/2" bolt hex head). Well...you can get a large bolt in there but there's no room for the socket!! I used these large bolts and had my friend jam the head with a screwdriver while I tightened the nut from the bottom. So you either go with a large allen bolt or maybe one of the stainless steel high grade small head bolts they sell at Summit. I'm sure you've seen them, a 3/8" thread bolt will have a 3/8 hex head. But I don't know if they make them in 1/2" thread. I would only need 4 for the outboard bolts. The inboard bolts are wide open as you can see (last pic).
One more thing, I realize that the seats are a little large/tall. The more I look at them the more I need to do something about it. I had added a 1 X 1 box iron piece under the outboard rail to level the seats. But now that they are in the car it is obvious that need to sit lower. I had planned on having the upholstery guy de-bulk them and shave an inch or two off the top of the head rest. But today I noticed that the inboard rails (see last pic) have a bracket with a dogleg in it. This dogleg raises the seat an inch. If I remove the dogleg and weld in a flat bracket (flush with the bottom of the rail) THEN remove the 1 X 1 box iron from the outboard rail, I will effectively lower the seats 1 inch. With that and another inch or two off the top of the head rest it would be 3 inches lower/shorter and much more aesthetically pleasing. If I mount the seat directly to the floor instead of on top of the carpet and jute I can gain another 3/4". Then I'm sure they would look much better.
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Treblig
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