Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 42

Thread: Thoughts on Oil Additives

  1. #1
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Easton, Pennsylvania USA
    Posts
    237

    Thoughts on Oil Additives

    OK, I guess its a good time to dredge up the topic of oil additives. I agree that some are nonsense snake oil, but a few others out there seem to have theoretical merit. I just dumped in a bottle of Rislone Compression additive into my 259 V8. It "claims" to improve compression resulting in smoother idle and improved performance (horsepower) along with reduced oil burn due to ring wear and / or valve stem seal wear.

    My engine has only 59,000 miles on it (never rebuilt). I dumped in a half quart of this stuff and within 20 miles I actually DO notice a marginal improvement, mainly in smoother idle. Since replacing the split rubber hose from the engine head to the line running to the oil gauge, oil consumption has been marginal to nil. I'm hoping that this small consumption will be further reduced.

    What is everyone's thoughts on these additives? Yes, some are crappy nothing, but I[m suspecting a few of them may have some merit???????????????

    -George-

  2. #2
    President Member 345 DeSoto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Skaneateles, NY/Port St.Lucie, FL
    Posts
    924
    I have always added a quart of Rislone Original formula to every oil change on any "old" engine which hasn't been rebuilt. It evenualy cleans up all of the varnish and frees everything up...especially hydraulic valve lifters and valve guides...

  3. #3
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Easton, Pennsylvania USA
    Posts
    237
    I used to use original Rislone with my 63 GT Hawk and thought it did a pretty good job.

  4. #4
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Walnut Creek Ca.
    Posts
    333

    additives

    Willie and the boys 2.jpg

    I used to drive Entertainer Tour buses for about 6 years. I drove Willie Nelson's bus and his diesel generator began to smoke quite a bit. He never had time to take it in to be repaired so, I added a can of restore every time I changed the oil after noticing it. A few hundred hours later and you really couldn't see it smoking anymore and oil consumption went way down, generator went a few more years before he got a new one. I'm not a spokesman for restore, just saying it worked for us----

  5. #5
    President Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    mass
    Posts
    3,431
    my question has always been: what objective, measureable evidence does anyone have of improved engine performance or other. Who can remember the NYC taxi study done years ago on different oils and additives in taxis that drove 24/7 for several years to measure (weigh engine components before and after 2+ years of severe service) engine wear ??? You can probably google the study... but the results were that additives did not affect (+ or -) engine wear.... Further.... as long as the oil was 10W-30 with the ASE burst on the bottle... all these oils performed the same. I can't remember Rislone for sure, but STP and others were a part of the study.

  6. #6
    Golden Hawk Member DEEPNHOCK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Brooklet, GA, USA. Planet Earth
    Posts
    17,554

    (it had to be said )

  7. #7
    Silver Hawk Member JoeHall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Kentucky, USA.
    Posts
    5,706
    For every Stude oil change, I pour in 16 oz. of ZDDP, a quart each of Rislone, Marvel Mystery, STP, and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I then top it up with regular oil.

  8. #8
    President Member Kato's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Thornton Ontario Canada
    Posts
    612
    Red Line Engine Oil Break-In additive contains all of the elements that were found in engine oils prior to 1970. 1) 16.9 grams total *ZDDP 8500 ppm 2) 3.9 grams Phosphorus 3) 4.7 grams Zinc 4) 8.3 grams Sulphur (*zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) A full bottle for a newly rebuilt engine for the first couple of oil changes and then 1/2 bottle every oil change there after. (source: "The Official Guide to Modern Gasoline and Engine Oil for Antique Vehicles" - Randy Rundle)

  9. #9
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Easton, Pennsylvania USA
    Posts
    237
    Quote Originally Posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post

    (it had to be said )
    I use ZDDP faithfully with every oil change. Jus' sayin'
    George

  10. #10
    President Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Austin, Texas
    Posts
    816
    Quote Originally Posted by reichsrundfunk View Post
    OK, I guess its a good time to dredge up the topic of oil additives. I agree that some are nonsense snake oil, but a few others out there seem to have theoretical merit. I just dumped in a bottle of Rislone Compression additive into my 259 V8. It "claims" to improve compression resulting in smoother idle and improved performance (horsepower) along with reduced oil burn due to ring wear and / or valve stem seal wear.

    My engine has only 59,000 miles on it (never rebuilt). I dumped in a half quart of this stuff and within 20 miles I actually DO notice a marginal improvement, mainly in smoother idle. Since replacing the split rubber hose from the engine head to the line running to the oil gauge, oil consumption has been marginal to nil. I'm hoping that this small consumption will be further reduced.

    What is everyone's thoughts on these additives? Yes, some are crappy nothing, but I[m suspecting a few of them may have some merit???????????????

    -George-


    A 259 engine with 59K on the clock that has received adequate maintenance has barely been broken in and should need zero in the way of oil additives except for STP, (or a suitable substitute).

    Choice of the proper viscosity (to me) would be in order. At your location I would choose 10-40 with some STP simply to provide the needed ZDDP(?) cam/lifter/rocker arm protection...

  11. #11
    President Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hawthorne, California, USA.
    Posts
    1,716
    My thoughts on this is not to add anything to the engine oil as I'm not as smart as the engineers at the oil companies. They design an additive package to use with their specific oil and adding anything to the oil can upset the balance of additives already in the oil. The best that can happen is nothing but lighten your wallet a bit and the worst could be long term engine damage. Any additive is a band aid to cover up a problem that should be addressed to make a permanent fix. If you feel that you need more ZDDP than what is in the oil you want to use, then I recommend finding an oil that has the additives you want such as Valvoline VR1, Brad Penn and most of the heavy duty oils such as Chevron Delo 400, Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac etc. Bud

  12. #12
    President Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Right behind you
    Posts
    1,629
    Quote Originally Posted by jackb View Post
    my question has always been: what objective, measureable evidence does anyone have of improved engine performance or other. Who can remember the NYC taxi study done years ago on different oils and additives in taxis that drove 24/7 for several years to measure (weigh engine components before and after 2+ years of severe service) engine wear ??? You can probably google the study... but the results were that additives did not affect (+ or -) engine wear.... Further.... as long as the oil was 10W-30 with the ASE burst on the bottle... all these oils performed the same. I can't remember Rislone for sure, but STP and others were a part of the study.
    That test was done by Consumer Reports. Engines were disassembled and blueprinted to be certain they were all identical to start. They were then installed in NYC taxis, which ran essentially 24/7. At 60K miles all the engines were pulled, and every component inspected and measured for wear.

    The results were just as jackb says. Using national brands of 10W30, with and without miracle additives, there was no difference at all between the engines. And none of them were worn out.

    CR thought they had put to rest the old wives tales that Brand A oil was better than brand X, and that additives were something special.

    CR simply provided proof, carefully and scientifically done, that any major brand of oil does everything that is desired.

    But.....almost no one believed it. Thus we still find the shelves loaded with Super XXX Miracle Engine Rebuild in a Can Slickum, and folks claiming that a pint of the stuff will cure stuck rings, burnt valves, scored bores, psoriasis, cancer and impotence. And double your fuel mileage.

    But for the real low-down, there's a popular site www.bobistheoilguy.com where you can read thousands of posts claiming that Brand X is better than Brand B plus a pint of Motor Honey. And vice versa for every other brand or combo. The folks there have lots of data and wives tales and agree on nothing.

  13. #13
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Elko NV
    Posts
    253
    I run Amzoil synthetic called Z-Rod. It has the ZDDP in it , and is engineered for older engines. It also advertises good long term storage capabilities. I think it is worth a look on their website to read more about it.

  14. #14
    Speedster Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Easton, Pennsylvania USA
    Posts
    237
    Actually I should expound just s but on what I use. In both my Studebaker Lark and Mercedes 380SL I use Shell Rotella 15W-40 Along with a bottle of ZDDPlus. I used to use Rislone in some other Studes I've owned. Not sure why I got away from that? It seemed pretty good stuff. I have heard that Lucas can actually damage the engine which is why I don't use it. I also change my oil religiously every 5000 miles. The Stude engine consumes one quart in about 800 miles so with new Dino added every 800 miles I'm not concerned about oil breakdown. It never comes out terribly dirty. The Benz goes 5000 miles on a quart.

    George

  15. #15
    Speedster Member 56GH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Sarasota, FL
    Posts
    259
    I've been trusting Hemmings Motor News and their motor oil for classic cars. No problems yet in my 1962 GT Hawk or in a previously-owned 1964 Cruiser.

    Bill L.

  16. #16
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by reichsrundfunk View Post
    OK, I guess its a good time to dredge up the topic of oil additives. I agree that some are nonsense snake oil, but a few others out there seem to have theoretical merit. I just dumped in a bottle of Rislone Compression additive into my 259 V8. It "claims" to improve compression resulting in smoother idle and improved performance (horsepower) along with reduced oil burn due to ring wear and / or valve stem seal wear.

    My engine has only 59,000 miles on it (never rebuilt). I dumped in a half quart of this stuff and within 20 miles I actually DO notice a marginal improvement, mainly in smoother idle. Since replacing the split rubber hose from the engine head to the line running to the oil gauge, oil consumption has been marginal to nil. I'm hoping that this small consumption will be further reduced.

    What is everyone's thoughts on these additives? Yes, some are crappy nothing, but I[m suspecting a few of them may have some merit???????????????

    -George-
    For clean-up of rings and valves use a product called Kreen, available by mail from Kano Labs

  17. #17
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by 56GH View Post
    I've been trusting Hemmings Motor News and their motor oil for classic cars. No problems yet in my 1962 GT Hawk or in a previously-owned 1964 Cruiser.

    Bill L.
    Darned right. Hemmings has always been a leader in refined petroleum products and certainly stays on the cutting edge with R&D and research in developing new products at their refinery~!

  18. #18
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by reichsrundfunk View Post
    I used to use original Rislone with my 63 GT Hawk and thought it did a pretty good job.
    Rislone additive will replace all the worn metal from cylinder walls and valve guides. Great stuff~!

  19. #19
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by jackb View Post
    my question has always been: what objective, measureable evidence does anyone have of improved engine performance or other. Who can remember the NYC taxi study done years ago on different oils and additives in taxis that drove 24/7 for several years to measure (weigh engine components before and after 2+ years of severe service) engine wear ??? You can probably google the study... but the results were that additives did not affect (+ or -) engine wear.... Further.... as long as the oil was 10W-30 with the ASE burst on the bottle... all these oils performed the same. I can't remember Rislone for sure, but STP and others were a part of the study.
    Thumbs up on that one~!

  20. #20
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyOne View Post
    A 259 engine with 59K on the clock that has received adequate maintenance has barely been broken in and should need zero in the way of oil additives except for STP, (or a suitable substitute).

    Choice of the proper viscosity (to me) would be in order. At your location I would choose 10-40 with some STP simply to provide the needed ZDDP(?) cam/lifter/rocker arm protection...
    My father drove a '56 Power Hawk 170,000 miles, used 10W oil year round, changed the oil every 10,000 miles, filter every 2000 miles and burned a quart of oil every 1500 miles when he traded it. Since his engine was water cooled, he didn't need a heavy oil for summer driving.

  21. #21
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by Bud View Post
    My thoughts on this is not to add anything to the engine oil as I'm not as smart as the engineers at the oil companies. They design an additive package to use with their specific oil and adding anything to the oil can upset the balance of additives already in the oil. The best that can happen is nothing but lighten your wallet a bit and the worst could be long term engine damage. Any additive is a band aid to cover up a problem that should be addressed to make a permanent fix. If you feel that you need more ZDDP than what is in the oil you want to use, then I recommend finding an oil that has the additives you want such as Valvoline VR1, Brad Penn and most of the heavy duty oils such as Chevron Delo 400, Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac etc. Bud
    You are 'dead on', 100% correct with the exception of 'heavy oils'. Oil is a lubricant, not a cushion. Are you aware that in the NASCAR qualifying runs they us 0W-5 weight oil~!

  22. #22
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by tsenecal View Post
    I run Amzoil synthetic called Z-Rod. It has the ZDDP in it , and is engineered for older engines. It also advertises good long term storage capabilities. I think it is worth a look on their website to read more about it.
    The ONLY reason I would use Amzoil Z-Rod would be if I wanted to eliminate any further wear and extend my engine life indefinitely~!

  23. #23
    President Member Kato's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Thornton Ontario Canada
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by colt45sa View Post
    The ONLY reason I would use Amzoil Z-Rod would be if I wanted to eliminate any further wear and extend my engine life indefinitely~!
    Do you find any oil leaks that were present get worse with this oil. I use Amsoil in my daily drivers and would definitely consider it for my GT but am always concerned with synthetic causing more leaks!

  24. #24
    President Member Gunslinger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Frederick, Maryland, USA.
    Posts
    3,987
    Then there's also the little pellets you drop into each cylinder to "completely" rebuild the engine! I haven't seen them in many, many years but always wondered if anyone was ever taken in by that.
    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

  25. #25
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Franklin,Tn
    Posts
    745
    Was a Lubricant sales rep for many years. Our lab stayed on top everything that came along and while I won't say what there stand is, I used to tell folk that if there was and or is anything of value in various additives da oil companies would blend it in their brew. Just an opinion from old peddler,
    Kim

  26. #26
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    North Little Rock Ar
    Posts
    1,181
    Kamzack knows his S@#t!!! 50,000 miles with filter changes and 2 qts added on tow vehicle with oil sampling at 10,000 mile intervals made me a believer. i think Joe Hall might have had his tongue in his cheek, but to each his own. Really enjoying this Forum, keep up the good work everybody,till my ragtop project arrives i am on honey do duty!!! Doofus

  27. #27
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Above the Equator
    Posts
    1,547
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeHall View Post
    For every Stude oil change, I pour in 16 oz. of ZDDP, a quart each of Rislone, Marvel Mystery, STP, and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I then top it up with regular oil.
    So, a QUART EACH of Rislone, Marvel Mystery, STP, and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. That's four quarts. Then 16 oz. of ZDDP (that's half a quart). Assuming a 5 Qt filling that only leave half a quart for 'regular oil!' And the end viscosity (not to mention cost)?
    '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-69 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

  28. #28
    Speedster Member voxnut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by reichsrundfunk View Post
    I use ZDDP faithfully with every oil change. Jus' sayin'
    George
    I use Brad Penn oil in all my old vehicles because it has ZDDP in it.
    Dean Seavers
    Sacramento, CA

  29. #29
    President Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    marana, Arizona
    Posts
    585
    I have an 05' Hyundai Accent with 341,00 miles on the original 1.6 4 banger. Runs great and burns no oil. Know what additive I've used? None. Just the factory recommended oil viscosity.: 10w40. I've used Walmart's Super Tech at every 3,500 mile oil & filter change. My 84' Harley FLT has 241,000 miles. I use Harley's recommended 20W50 oil and change it and filter every 3,500 miles. It runs great and uses no oil. Additives? We don't need no stinkin' additives. Routine oil changes with filter is all you need. Save your money!

  30. #30
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Quote Originally Posted by Kato View Post
    Do you find any oil leaks that were present get worse with this oil. I use Amsoil in my daily drivers and would definitely consider it for my GT but am always concerned with synthetic causing more leaks!
    There is no reason to think that Amsoil would cause more leaks. The Amsoil detergent additives are no more aggressive than those in a good high quality 'dino' oil. What synthetic oil does for you is provide far better lubricity through controlled uniform molecule structure and less polymer additives to maintain viscosity. If you had or have been using low detergent or non detergent motor oil, then synthetic oil would cause you a problem by cleaning out the sludge that has been sealing your engine.

  31. #31
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    Highly recommend 'voxnut's' choice~!

  32. #32
    Speedster Member colt45sa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    fort pierce, florida, USA.
    Posts
    385
    A friend of mine who is a mechanic by profession has one of those small Chevy Pick-up trucks with just a shade over 400,000 miles on it. The engine has never been down. Pennzoil is a sponser for his roundy-round car. He changes the oil in his pick-up regularly and does not believe in additives.

  33. #33
    President Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Right behind you
    Posts
    1,629
    Quote Originally Posted by colt45sa View Post
    A friend of mine who is a mechanic by profession has one of those small Chevy Pick-up trucks with just a shade over 400,000 miles on it. The engine has never been down. Pennzoil is a sponser for his roundy-round car. He changes the oil in his pick-up regularly and does not believe in additives.
    Yep. Well designed engines, given reasonable care, last a long time. They *might* last just as long if you add some SuperSpecialSlickum additive. Or not.

    I don't know about all oil manufacturers, but I do know that Exxon-Mobil and Chevron have a large staff of engineers who formulate the best possible lubricants. If there were something better, they would use it.

    The zillions of Overhaul-In-A-Can and Save-Your-Engine stuff are small time guys who don't have 1% of the knowledge as the major refiners.

    I knew the guy, now long deceased, who owned TuffOil, supposedly a teflon lubricant so good you could add a pint to your oil and then drain the radiator and drive the car. He didn't know snot from Shinola about lubrication, but he knew how to pitch a product. And he laughed all the way to the bank.

    Your car, your money.

    Say...what do high dollar manufacturers, Ferrari, Rolls Royce and race car mechanics use?

    Hint - It's not Amsoil, Rislone, Engine Rebuild in a can, or...do I dare say it, STP.

  34. #34
    Speedster Member voxnut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by T.J. lavallee View Post
    I have an 05' Hyundai Accent with 341,00 miles on the original 1.6 4 banger. Runs great and burns no oil. Know what additive I've used? None. Just the factory recommended oil viscosity.: 10w40. I've used Walmart's Super Tech at every 3,500 mile oil & filter change. My 84' Harley FLT has 241,000 miles. I use Harley's recommended 20W50 oil and change it and filter every 3,500 miles. It runs great and uses no oil. Additives? We don't need no stinkin' additives. Routine oil changes with filter is all you need. Save your money!
    Which is great to use the recommended lubricant in your machines. However, old engines - particularly with with solid lifters - need oil with zinc in it, and modern oil doesn't really have much if any. Hence the classic car oils, or a ZDDP additive.

    More reading if you are interested. https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...07/Classic-Oil
    Dean Seavers
    Sacramento, CA

  35. #35
    President Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Right behind you
    Posts
    1,629
    Quote Originally Posted by voxnut View Post
    Which is great to use the recommended lubricant in your machines. However, old engines - particularly with with solid lifters - need oil with zinc in it, and modern oil doesn't really have much if any. Hence the classic car oils, or a ZDDP additive.

    https://www.hagerty.com/articles-vid...07/Classic-Oil
    No, I am not interested.

    An article by Carl Heideman? Look at who is paying him: Brad Penn Oil, Driven Racing Oil, Classic Car Motor Oil Company.

    He's a shill for the people who pay him to promote their snake oil.

    Heck, pay me and I'll promote banana peels and sawdust to quiet down noisy gearboxes.


    I own a 1959 Austin Healey Sprite. I don't know how many miles it has been driven since I've only owned it for 30 years. The engine has been rebuilt once. It has solid lifters and has never had any ZDDP or other miracle additives. And it runs just fine with no measurable cam or lifter wear.

    And it has been on unleaded ethanol for twenty years. No valve seat recession, no cam or lifter wear.

    But I'm no engine expert, however there are some engine experts on this forum, for example Jack Vines. Jack hasn't had anything to say on this thread, but I'll bet he doesn't add ZDDP or any other miracle to his engines.
    Last edited by jnormanh; 03-23-2017 at 07:24 PM.

  36. #36
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Ferndale, WA, USA.
    Posts
    26,715
    Quote Originally Posted by jnormanh View Post
    /Cut/I own a 1959 Austin Healey Sprite. I don't know how many miles it has been driven since I've only owned it for 30 years. The engine has been rebuilt once. It has solid lifters and has never had any ZDDP or other miracle additives. And it runs just fine with no measurable cam or lifter wear.
    And it has been on unleaded ethanol for twenty years. No valve seat recession, no cam or lifter wear./Cut/
    There is only one problem with your little "Test".

    Actually you HAVE been using a good deal of ZDDP for about 21 of those 30 Years, since the significant amount for flat tappet Engines was only removed in Nov. 2007 from all U.S. Oils, a much longer interval will tell the real story.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  37. #37
    President Member Kurt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    YatesCity, IL, USA.
    Posts
    1,175
    Break in oil for new or reground cams has extra zddp. I think I will continue to use VR1 or something like it until someone proves different. As for other additives, I have not ever used them so I can't really say. I could open a whole can of worms with fuel additives though. Stabil and seafoam, in my mind, really do seem to do what they claim. As Jack Vines says your results may vary......
    1962 Champ

    51 Commander 4 door

  38. #38
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Minneapolis
    Posts
    3,297
    I can tell you that Sea-Foam works wonders. In the 80's I bought a fully loaded 3 year old Cutlass real cheap because it sounded like it had a rod out. I dropped the pan and removed all the rod bearings, but they looked great. As long as they were out I put in new ones anyway. Next I pulled both valve covers to check the plastic rocker buttons, and found a few broken, so I replaced those but still had the bad engine noise. I then decided to try Sea-Foam for sticking lifters. I put the can in at the store, and before I got home the engine was as quiet as a new one.

    My Champion uses more oil than it should, so I'll try a can of STP before I hit the roads this spring. Still waiting for 2 good rains to wash off the road salt.

  39. #39
    President Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Right behind you
    Posts
    1,629
    Quote Originally Posted by StudeRich View Post
    There is only one problem with your little "Test".

    Actually you HAVE been using a good deal of ZDDP for about 21 of those 30 Years, since the significant amount for flat tappet Engines was only removed in Nov. 2007 from all U.S. Oils, a much longer interval will tell the real story.
    If you're correct, then I've been running this "flat tappet" engine for 8 or 9 years on those terrible modern oils which will destroy it. It's not happening. Valve clearances are still in spec. since the last adjustment 5 or 6 years ago.

  40. #40
    President Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hawthorne, California, USA.
    Posts
    1,716
    Studebaker engines with the exception of the R engines use fairly low pressure valve springs and mild cams. Because of that, I don't know that the ZDDP issue is a big one in most of our engines. The issue with ZDDP will become more apparent with the use of high lift and high pressure valve springs in the high performance engines. The use of too much ZDDP can be just as bad for the engine as it can become an abrasive in large quantities. Camshaft problems started in the late 60's into the 70's when every auto manufacturer started the building really high horsepower engines that used the high lift, long duration, high spring pressure cams. The Studebaker engines in fairly stock form do not fall into that category. I've seen flat tappet cam engines that have been run on the modern oils for years with no ill effects. Bud

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •