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  • Brakes: Hydrovac rebuilders

    At one time there was two or three ads in turning wheels from hydrovac rebuilders but I don't see any current ones. Anyone know a reputable rebuilder that I won't have to rob a bank to pay for a rebuild.

  • #2
    Originally posted by E. Davis View Post
    At one time there was two or three ads in turning wheels from hydrovac rebuilders but I don't see any current ones. Anyone know a reputable rebuilder that I won't have to rob a bank to pay for a rebuild.
    If it is for a Hawk with the booster in front of the battery, Earle, just buy a brand new one from Studebaker International. The market for rebuilding them has dried up since rebuilders can't make much money and try to match Ed Reynold's price of an entirely new unit. BP
    We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

    G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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    • #3
      The following companies advertise in Hemmings Motor News:


      sigpic
      In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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      • #4
        The HydroVac rebuilder in the Portland, Oregon area is Brake Systems Incorporated. They have been in business for a long time and have done many HydroVacs for local Studebaker owners. Also local is Power Brake Booster Exchange, but they do firewall mount (MasterVac) boosters only. So we are fortunate in this area to have both of these rebuilders.

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        • #5
          They are simple to rebuild, if you have the parts. I have done them. Usually the leather seals are so shrunk they wont work unless you soak them a long time. There is more than just the vacuum piston seal that is leather. The air actuating diaphragm is paper thin, and also degrades in storage so If you can't find a well stored kit, then replacing is usually better. The slave cylinder rusts and pits just like a master cylinder, and the smaller hydraulic bore that actuates the air valve diaphragm also corrodes because it is aluminum.
          Bez Auto Alchemy
          573-318-8948
          http://bezautoalchemy.com


          "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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          • #6
            I second Bob's advice in post #2, new from SI cost the same as a rebuild.

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            • #7
              Its my understanding from other posts that the new ones are Chinese and somewhat troublesome. No?

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              • #8
                Here is a place that offers kits. follow the link to their home page, they also offer services.

                Bez Auto Alchemy
                573-318-8948
                http://bezautoalchemy.com


                "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                • #9
                  I've had several brake boosters rebuilt by Prior in Dallas and they mention hydrovacs as well...

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                  • #10
                    We have rebuilt ones in stock. http://mystudebaker.com

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                    • #11
                      Thanks for the input everybody. As always the forum is the place for good information before making a decision on which way to go.

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                      • #12
                        I have a 63 Hawk with dragging disk brakes. With the engine off there is no dragging, so can I assume that my problem is the hydrovac that was put in last summer?

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                        • #13
                          Post 12.....or a clogged hill holder. I had the same problem, thought it was the hydrovac. Disconnect brake lines from hill holder, plug them and put a jumper line at hill holder taking it out of the circuit. See if problem disappears.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by hthomas567 View Post
                            I have a 63 Hawk with dragging disk brakes. With the engine off there is no dragging, so can I assume that my problem is the hydrovac that was put in last summer?
                            Unfortunately-no. It may be, or it may be bad front hoses, or it may be bad caliper seals, or it may be bad pad retractors, or as tim333 says it could be the hill holder if so equipped. The pedal rod to master may have changed adjustment and on and on. And easiest fix of all-you may need to flush all the lines, hoses and every part of the brake system to eliminate any moisture from the system. For some reason the smallest amount of moisture, will expand and cause the calipers to not release. I had a link to a Bendix site that went through the diagnostics for a "sticking" hydrovac but can't find it. Try the flush first, and I do mean "flush" including bleeding off fluid in the hydrovac itself, before giving up on the rebuilt. There is a reason they don't use them on cars anymore!!

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                            • #15
                              Bull. They don't use them, because they were designed for single circuit brake systems. People couldn't care less about regular maintenence . They were used in heavy trucks as well as Studebakers. Cadillac even used them. They work good if they are maintained, and if they are assembled right in the first place. (either new or rebuilt)!
                              Bez Auto Alchemy
                              573-318-8948
                              http://bezautoalchemy.com


                              "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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