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  • Engine: Oil Pan Gasket

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ID:	1753721Hello, I have a 6 cylinder Champion engine and I want to replace the pan gasket. The engine uses a 4 piece gasket. The attached picture shows how the end pieces appear to be too long. Is this how it is supposed to be? Do the end pieces compress during installation? Should I coat the cork with Permatex? The two side pieces appear to be correct but you can see how they extend over the end pieces. This just doesn't make sense! Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  • #2
    You MAY have the the '51 to '64 Stude. V8 Pan Gasket.

    The small "Tabs" on the ends go into the Rear Main Cap with small corks under them that come with the New Rear Main Seals.

    The length of both Arch Gaskets looks WAY too long, looks like a Website purchase from the "Unknowing"! They do not know a Champion from a Commander!

    These Gaskets do usually need a little trimming and need some excess to be forced down tight, but this does look excessive, do the side gaskets fit around the bulge in the Block & Pan that only Champions have?

    Correct Parts that FIT are here: http://studebakervendors.com
    Last edited by StudeRich; 03-13-2017, 05:00 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      Incredibly, I believe I do have the correct gasket kit. It is the Fel Pro OS 4434 C. The box says it is for Studebaker 169 engines 1939 to 1954. This is not the first time I've tried to install a new pan gasket on a Champion engine and the other gasket set was just the same. I just checked with the Rock Auto web site and it shows this part number for the oil pan gasket so I'm sure I have the correct one.

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      • #4
        OK good, then just leave a SMALL amount of excess and cut it on the same angle to fit level on Block.

        Yes all Gaskets of this type require sealing with Permatex RTV High Temp. Black Gasket Maker or the Old fashioned Permatex #2 or your choice of good quality, Oil resistant, high Temp. Sealers.

        I like to let it "Tack" Dry to the Block with studs in the corners and several bolt holes, then apply the Gasket to Pan Sealant and install the Pan last, do NOT over tighten, slowly tighten them a little at a time, going around many times.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #5
          StudeRich, Thanks for the tips. I will try that.

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          • #6
            I am doing the same job on my 259 and I will place the rear cork gasket on to the rear main firstly and then the pan gasket will not interfere. In the past I had to use two extra long bolts at the end holes to get it started. I did not cut any cork material, with the longer bolts it will compress in to the space. As the pan is brought up closer and tighter (but not over tight) the long bolts are exchanged for the correct shorter ones. Be gentle do not over tighten. Good luck.

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            • #7
              I was thinking last night about our Stude oil pan gaskets and the installation process and had an idea. Wanted to see what everyone thinks. I've had my pan off a number of times in the past and know for certain that the flange isn't perfectly flat, and it's a bit wavy between the bolt holes. Next time I have it off, I plan to take the time to work everything out so it's perfectly flat. Here's my idea, having a piece of steel cut to fit just inside the outer flange of the pan with the appropriate holes drilled to give the flange more rigidity so the gasket will be more evenly compressed and seal better.
              Thoughts?

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              • #8
                That could help, but you can avoid the problem but simply not over tightening the screws, after of course flattening the Pan Flange and using Sealant very sparingly.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you dip the screw threads in paint before installing them, they will not work loose even though they are not torqued down super tight.
                  RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                  10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                  4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                  5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                  • #10
                    Ok so if you are doing this on a '51 Champion, the Shop manual says that you have to remove the "Filler Block," first, then place the side gaskets on the block (not the pan) UNDER where the filler block will be reinstalled. It has you reinstall the filler block by installing one of the upper bolts and prying the block into place (compressing the gasket end) and installing the other upper bolt. then installing the other two filler block bolts just to a point of contact. Then the front and rear gaskets are put in the grooves and the pan installed. Once installed the filler block screws are tightened.

                    Is it possible that the side gaskets pictured here are longer so there is enough to fit under that filler block? The two center gaskets I have are also too long. I had planned to trim them. Yes/no?

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                    • #11
                      NO! Do not trim them. They are long for a reason. Someone else will chime in and explain it more thoroughly.

                      Did you get the new oil pan and is it correct?
                      RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                      10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                      4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                      5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Yes, the Front ends of the Oil Pan side gaskets DO go Under the Filler Block.

                        Note that the Rear Arch Cork is not square, the narrow side goes into the Rear Main Brg. Cap firmly all the way into the groove, any remaining "hump up" will be compressed on final tightening.

                        Don't forget the small Cork 1/4 inch pieces that fill the bottom of the Block surface level before the Side Gaskets go over them and the rear Arch Cork over All.

                        Shape the 2 Arch gaskets inside of a close sized Tin Can to "Form" them first.

                        So all of these posts make it clear that you do NOT do what the Poster in Post #1 shows with gaskets on the Pan! .
                        StudeRich
                        Second Generation Stude Driver,
                        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                        SDC Member Since 1967

                        Comment

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