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Thread: Oil Pan Gasket

  1. #1
    Speedster Member
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    Oil Pan Gasket

    IMG_7651.jpgHello, I have a 6 cylinder Champion engine and I want to replace the pan gasket. The engine uses a 4 piece gasket. The attached picture shows how the end pieces appear to be too long. Is this how it is supposed to be? Do the end pieces compress during installation? Should I coat the cork with Permatex? The two side pieces appear to be correct but you can see how they extend over the end pieces. This just doesn't make sense! Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    You MAY have the the '51 to '64 Stude. V8 Pan Gasket.

    The small "Tabs" on the ends go into the Rear Main Cap with small corks under them that come with the New Rear Main Seals.

    The length of both Arch Gaskets looks WAY too long, looks like a Website purchase from the "Unknowing"! They do not know a Champion from a Commander!

    These Gaskets do usually need a little trimming and need some excess to be forced down tight, but this does look excessive, do the side gaskets fit around the bulge in the Block & Pan that only Champions have?

    Correct Parts that FIT are here: http://studebakervendors.com
    Last edited by StudeRich; 03-13-2017 at 09:00 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  3. #3
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    Incredibly, I believe I do have the correct gasket kit. It is the Fel Pro OS 4434 C. The box says it is for Studebaker 169 engines 1939 to 1954. This is not the first time I've tried to install a new pan gasket on a Champion engine and the other gasket set was just the same. I just checked with the Rock Auto web site and it shows this part number for the oil pan gasket so I'm sure I have the correct one.

  4. #4
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    OK good, then just leave a SMALL amount of excess and cut it on the same angle to fit level on Block.

    Yes all Gaskets of this type require sealing with Permatex RTV High Temp. Black Gasket Maker or the Old fashioned Permatex #2 or your choice of good quality, Oil resistant, high Temp. Sealers.

    I like to let it "Tack" Dry to the Block with studs in the corners and several bolt holes, then apply the Gasket to Pan Sealant and install the Pan last, do NOT over tighten, slowly tighten them a little at a time, going around many times.

  5. #5
    Speedster Member
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    StudeRich, Thanks for the tips. I will try that.

  6. #6
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    I am doing the same job on my 259 and I will place the rear cork gasket on to the rear main firstly and then the pan gasket will not interfere. In the past I had to use two extra long bolts at the end holes to get it started. I did not cut any cork material, with the longer bolts it will compress in to the space. As the pan is brought up closer and tighter (but not over tight) the long bolts are exchanged for the correct shorter ones. Be gentle do not over tighten. Good luck.

  7. #7
    Commander Member
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    I was thinking last night about our Stude oil pan gaskets and the installation process and had an idea. Wanted to see what everyone thinks. I've had my pan off a number of times in the past and know for certain that the flange isn't perfectly flat, and it's a bit wavy between the bolt holes. Next time I have it off, I plan to take the time to work everything out so it's perfectly flat. Here's my idea, having a piece of steel cut to fit just inside the outer flange of the pan with the appropriate holes drilled to give the flange more rigidity so the gasket will be more evenly compressed and seal better.
    Thoughts?

  8. #8
    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    That could help, but you can avoid the problem but simply not over tightening the screws, after of course flattening the Pan Flange and using Sealant very sparingly.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




  9. #9
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    If you dip the screw threads in paint before installing them, they will not work loose even though they are not torqued down super tight.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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