wheel cylinders

[karterfred88]

I feel your pain on vendor pricing. Fact is, most of the old interchange numbers no longer will "interchange" as so many have been discontinued. If the repair kits don't work try Dorman 8418 about $3.00 average. Every other listing I've found is wrong on bore size. Seems like a Chrysler wheel cylinder from the 50s-60s-70s might be a match they were 3/4". Half of the reman shoes were wrong that I have received, being close, but not a match at the wheel cylinder ends--usually longer (taller?) at the end that goes into the wheel cylinder but would work with a "little" die grinding the correct profile onto them. Never did figure out what they came out of. I know the 3/4" cylinders must have been commonly used ones in 1960-1964, although specified by Bendix to be 3/4", I'm sure Studebaker sourced them as cheaply as possible from a batch being used on something else. Unfortunately-that "something else" probably isn't available anymore either. Let us know how much massaging is needed on the cylinders-looks like too much to me.

[swvalcon]

Fred Looks like all that will be needed on the wheel cylinders is to drill another hole at the other side on the backing plate and either a gasket or something to seal dust out right where it fits though the plate as the center area is just a hair smaller.I think everything else will work. Which would be great as there should be a lot of people making cylinders for b 2300 Mazda's for cheap. I only paid $3.58 for these. They are 3/4" and are the same distance across on the main body itself as the studebakers and the dust seal is a slight bit heavier but that won't get in the way. The old shoes fit the slot on the piston just fine and fit in the dust seal so that shouldn't be a issue. The stock set up the end of the shoe just rides against a flat spot on the piston. As I said I will trust Japan machine work over anything out of China. China stuff will be shot in a year. May have to use a metric line fitting where it hits the cylinder but I'am putting new lines on anyway so I can build what ever it needs.

[fh4ever]

not sure if it makes any difference on yours...but on my '39....I took the Ford pistons and machined the inside depth so that the thickness where the shoe contacts it to the back side of the piston remained the same thickness. I also noticed the Ford piston body was slightly longer but that seemed to have no affect. For the rear I made SS pistons and had the cylinders sleeved.
Check your distance from the mounting surface to the center of the bore...so the shoe presses in the center of the piston and not off center. And your "boss" is slightly smaller diameter than the hole in the backing plate? can you make a thin bushing to take up the space?.... So the bolts are not relied on to hold it centered. best of luck with it.

[swvalcon]

The bushing idea is good never thought of that but will take a look. My brother has a small machine I could run some off on. I did some measuring and the body of the cylinder is 2 1/2" rubber to rubber. The line hole is dead center and the mount holes are 1 3/4 center to center and are both 7/8" from center. So if I just mark center of the hole in the backing plate and put a hole on each side 7/8 from there the cylinder should be centered.Where the cylinder fits the backing plate the hole is 1 3/8 and the new cylinder is 1 1/8 so I need a 1 1/8 ID 1/8 " thick spacer or sleeve .

[swvalcon]

The new brake shoes got here today from rockauto. New shoes, no core charge at $36.80 with the shipping so may be more or less depending on where you are shipping. Look a perfect match to the old shoes other than the rear shoe has more lining on it. Longer and the piece that fits into the wheel cylinder at the upper shoe is just a little smaller but they fit perfect into the new Mazda wheel cylinders. Need to get new springs and clips and should be able to assemble this next week. Then I will know for sure if all is well. If everything works as planed I saved myself a little over $200.

[swvalcon]

Got the E-brake cable and clips with new springs from SI yesterday. I made a plate for the backing plate at the wheel cylinder with 1 1/8" hole to support the wheel cylinder and mounted it on the outside of backing plate at the top. Used the two holes that where there and drilled two new ones. My modified plate is now held on with 4 bolts. Two 5/16 on the bottom and the two small ones at the top that hold the wheel cylinder on. Everything else fit together with out any changes and the drum fits and turns so I see no reason these Mazda cylinders wont work. Now just a matter of doing the other side and torque everything up and she's ready to go in the frame. The mod's would be a little hard to do on the car but if you where to remove the backing plate and do everything off the car and just put it back on as an assembly it would be easy.

[4jc8z]

Care to share what part# rear shoes you are using?

[swvalcon]

Shoes are Centric 11101730 $25.79 a set new no cores, wheel cylinders Kelsey-Hayes 3/4" 1984 mazda b2200 rears w-53506 and 507 $ 3.45 each all from Rockauto. Bracket on backing plate 18 gauge sheet metal sealed with black silicone before bolting to backing plate. E-cable and springs from SI.

[bezhawk]

Steve, that looks like it should work well. Just be forewarned, that disc brake Studebaker bendix brakes put the long lining on the leading shoe, the reverse of what you would find on regular drum brakes.

[swvalcon]

For some reason these shoes have the linings longer than the stock ones on both sides. The metal part of the shoe is the same but the linings run closer to the edge of the shoe. They are almost the same on both shoes.not sure if that will be a problem or not.

[studeski]

White Post Restorations does them.

http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html

White Post started with stainless. They only show brass now.

[4jc8z]

Shoes are Centric 11101730 $25.79 a set new no cores, wheel cylinders Kelsey-Hayes 3/4" 1984 mazda b2200 rears w-53506 and 507 $ 3.45 each all from Rockauto. Bracket on backing plate 18 gauge sheet metal sealed with black silicone before bolting to backing plate. E-cable and springs from SI.

Thank you for helping fellow stude nuts out!

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Be aware that these 173 shoes are only used on the rear of Studebaker cars with factory front disc brakes. They are also used on 1/2 ton pickups, front and rear, from late '55 through '62.

[IMJ]

If I recall correctly, years ago Studebaker Intl. offered rebuilt original stainless steel sleeved front disc brake cylinders for sale. I think for legal reasons that was discontinued. It was at that time that I wanted to replace/rebuild the ones on my car. New reproduced cylinders weren’t available at that time. I contacted White Post Restorations and inquired about stainless steel verses brass sleeves. I don’t remember if they still did both at that time but I do remember brass was recommended. The reason was that brass could take a much higher pressure than stainless steel before the fluid would leak past the seal on the piston. I guess the decision would need to be made as to rebuild original cylinders with brass sleeves or Chinese quality repros. The same argument can be made for rear cylinders.


As for the rear shoes I use #53 that are available at Advance Auto. They are new with no core charge and recently purchased for around $24.00. The length of the lining on one shoe is 9” and the other is 11”.

regards,
Jay

[4jc8z]

Technically #53 shoes are truck and #173 shoes are car rear. Not sure what the difference is, if any nowadays.