Transmission / Overdrive: 5-Speed Upgrade

[3x2stude]

I am planning ahead for the transmission for the Weber carbureted car, (53 C-body). I will be using a "Quick Time" GM pattern bell housing. I will want the stick to be close the stock position for a GT Hawk. I will want something that can handle around 400 HP, (more than the Weber motor will put out). A hydraulic clutch is planned. I assume a special pilot bushing will be required.

What are my best options?

JK

[StudeRich]

So the "Engine" will be a small block GM 350 or whatever?

[3x2stude]

Stude powered. Quick Time makes or at least made SFI rated scatter shields for the Stude and I have one. So we need to pretend I have a 61 4-speed Hawk. (And I do ).

JK

[Xcalibur]

May I suggest a search here. There have been quite a few threads regarding 5-speed installs in assorted Studes the last few years.

I've a GM from a Camaro in my '63 Avanti and have had for over 20 years. Also, I helped Jim Lange put a Tremec in his B'ville record holder in 2015--not as easy as the GM. Btw, I love the overdrive with my 4.09 Twin-Trac transplanted into a Jag IRS!

[PackardV8]

I will want the stick to be close the stock position for a GT Hawk.

That will be the most difficult, as most late V8 5-speeds have the shifter rearward. We long-legged guys move the seats rearward anyway, so I've never tried to get one forward. Having said that, I've got a friend who has a TKO500 going in a Chevy pickup and we're building a forward-mounted remote linkage for him. Doesn't look too difficult, but would require some tunnel work in a C/K. It will look something like this.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0805kc-mid-shift-kit/#

Tremec also sells a somewhat expensive kit for what should be essentially free. http://www.tremec.com/anexos/Mid-Shi...sion%20Kit.pdf

Yes, the hydraulic throwout bearing works well. I used a second brake master cylinder which bolts beside the original.

Yes, the pilot bearing diameter and length will depend upon the input shaft in the GM, Ford, Mopar or aftermarket 5-speed, but that's the easiest part of the fabrication. Since your QT bell probably has the GM pattern, maybe concentrate on those. Good news is those are also the most common.

jack vines

[bezhawk]

I just did this swap. Made an adapter pilot bearing out of oilite bronze bearing stock ordered from local bearing house. Turned down on a lathe. Used a Tremec TKO 600 Fidanza Aluminum flywheel, Dual friction Centerforce clutch. The Shifter is pretty much in the same position as stock. If you haven't ordered any parts yet PM me and I can give you part #s. What Speedmeter are you using? If stock, I can show you a cable to use that won't break the bank.

[3x2stude]

Bez,

I PM'd you my contact info.

JK

[karterfred88]

The RM-6075 Bellhousing will put the GM TKO in. The modified pilot is actually available but it is listed as a Mopar to Chevy pilot (.940 OD by Chevy ID ) a bit pricey for a pilot bushing but beats having one made. The TKO has a few different shift locations available, although you have to pay for the them as adapters, Which one will suite the Hawk best I don't know.

http://www.tickperformance.com/mcleod-pilot-bushing-mopar-od-to-gm-id-941-o-d-x-591-i-d-oilite-machine-part-8-941-1/

[Alan]

Trans-Dapt has the same pilot bearing for $15.

[3x2stude]

Thanks for the info to all you guys. I got your PMs BEZ. I also found a few previous posts by going through Google linking me back to SDC. So I think I am good except for saving up the funny money to fund it. The plan will be.....

Quicktime bell housing.
Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
High end street / strip clutch.
"Mustang" 96 - 04 suspended clutch / brake pedals. Cobra brakes all around so it makes sense and eliminates guesswork.
"McLeod" hydraulic slave with hydraulic throw out bearing Mustang "Tremec" swap kit.
Tremec 600 transmission.

JK

[spokejr]

Thanks for the info to all you guys. I got your PMs BEZ. I also found a few previous posts by going through Google linking me back to SDC. So I think I am good except for saving up the funny money to fund it. The plan will be.....

Quicktime bell housing.
Fidanza aluminum flywheel.
High end street / strip clutch.
"Mustang" 96 - 04 suspended clutch / brake pedals. Cobra brakes all around so it makes sense and eliminates guesswork.
"McLeod" hydraulic slave with hydraulic throw out bearing Mustang "Tremec" swap kit.
Tremec 600 transmission.

JK

You might want to use an external cylinder to actuate the clutch. If the seals fail in the throwout/cylinder unit, you will hose the clutch plates resulting a complete replacement of friction plate. If the slave is external when it fails, probably not a big deal to replace or rebuild.

Ken

[3x2stude]

Ken,

Point well taken but I need to loose the throw-out arm to save space and simplify things. If a McLeod system leaks at a cost of $700.00 I would be surprised. I will do a little research on product quality review before I pull the trigger. I got time as I need to save some coin.

JK

[DEEPNHOCK]

Make sure you have your clutch disk and pressure plate sorted out first.
That Quick Time bell housing is awfully small, and clearance is real tight.
(I think they want to have you use their clutch).

[bezhawk]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctf-df161675/overview/

This fits inside and works with the Chevy pattern TKO to fit the QT bell housing. no adapters

[karterfred88]

Ken,

Point well taken but I need to loose the throw-out arm to save space and simplify things. If a McLeod system leaks at a cost of $700.00 I would be surprised. I will do a little research on product quality review before I pull the trigger. I got time as I need to save some coin.

JK

I think you'll find the $700.00 product works as well and is no better than the RAM, Howe and others at lower prices. All of these can and do let go from time to time, Even OEM units do, as I sadly found out on a front wheel drive car I had--requiring the transaxle removal to replace-along with the clutch plate soaked in DOT 3. I would try and stick to an external application, but rigging that up with limited space is also a headache. Weighing the options, the internal one is the easiest to install, but with a higher risk factor. At least on RWD cars you only need pull the trans and bell housing to fix it.