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Thread: rag joint replacement

  1. #1
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    rag joint replacement

    I just bought a 75 Avanti 2. On the drive home the steering was very loose on the freeeway. I looked close at home and the rag joint is falling apart. I guess this is good news as I don't have to pull the steering box and get it rebuilt. Does anyone know if I have to loosen the column to put a new one in. I tries to do it intact and it won't come off the steering box shaft. Thanks for your Help Dean

  2. #2
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    You can find those rag joints in any NAPA or Autozone on the "Help" shelves with small parts...

    Installing it, I believe , is just loosening the bolts, sliding the old out and the new in, etc..

    You don't have to remove the splined coupling...

    What's the serial number of your car?

    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)

  3. #3
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    Hi All- While we're at it is this rag joint likely to be the same as one used on an 81 (RGB3269) and what would I be asking for if it needed replacing.
    Good to know cos I'm nowhere near a NAPA
    Body coming off rusty frame......
    Steve

  4. #4
    President Member TWChamp's Avatar
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    I would just call it the steering universal joint, or flex joint, then describe it as being made out of an old car tire, because that's what it resembles. In fact you could make your own.

    I used belting to make the same joint for my hot water circulating pump in my house.
    The factory joint threw the spring coupling every year, and that got expensive.
    The belting coupler I made has been silent and reliable for over 5 years now.

  5. #5
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    My vin is RQB2205. There are 2 nuts and bolts on the joint and 2 that look rivited on it. So there is no way to just slip it out. That would have been great. I was told i was going to have to special order this from speedway motors. Its about $50 from them. Looks to be excellent quality. Another post I had read said it was not available at Napa which surprised me. What do you think.
    Thanks Dean

  6. #6
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    0381ragam.jpg

    Here's mine. I know I replaced that joint without disturbing either the column or the frame bolts. There's even enough spline left on the column shaft to push the coupler up a bit to ease the replacement



    Here's a large photo
    http://www.studebaker-info.org/0381raga.jpg

  7. #7
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    Thanks, i will see what I did wrong. Where did you get your replacement from? Also by any chance did you ever have a problem with getting into the trunk after the pull cable breaks. The trunk was open when I bought the car last week and I saw a solenoid.
    Thanks Dean

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by thepartsman57-8 View Post
    Thanks, i will see what I did wrong. Where did you get your replacement from? Also by any chance did you ever have a problem with getting into the trunk after the pull cable breaks. The trunk was open when I bought the car last week and I saw a solenoid.
    Thanks Dean
    The replacement rag joint was found at a parts store hanging on those Red "Help" shelves. It was a while ago and since many of todays cars have the universal joint to a steering rack, they may have gone away from these shelves, but they are out there...

    The trunk issue. Many cars came with only a cable release with the pull handle behind the drivers seat on the passenger floor rise. If that's not available and the trunk is stuck closed, get a long screwdriver and get to the latch through the rear passenger shelf access door. You can pry the latch open there.

    The release cable runs under the rear seat, through the rear panel and under the trunk carpet. These are all places that generally get wet and rust the cable. I believe the button for that solenoid is in the glovebox

    64 GT Hawk (K7)
    1970 Avanti (R3)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Winzar View Post
    Hi All- While we're at it is this rag joint likely to be the same as one used on an 81 (RGB3269) and what would I be asking for if it needed replacing.
    Good to know cos I'm nowhere near a NAPA
    Body coming off rusty frame......
    Steve
    Steve
    You should be able to go to Rare spares and get one to suit from a Holden.
    I'm also pretty sure you can get a universal kit to suit.
    pb

  10. #10
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    On the 80's car with a solenoid controlled trunk release in the glove box it may help get more juice to the solenoid by raising the engine idle speed so charging gauge reads about 14 volts, then try again. (per Gary Johnson) Also once open lube the hell out of latch assembly with white grease spray and check the solenoid connections power and ground. The later cars 87 and up may have a cable, that looks like a ground that you can pull to release. On ALL the cars service the latch assembly with white grease. Lou Cote

  11. #11
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    Thanks. My 75 has cable and solenoid. I will try raising the idle

  12. #12
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    For the "rag joint" fix see here: http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/...c72759bob.html

  13. #13
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    The problem is that my rag joint has the 2 fingers that stick out of it attached to the flange that connects to the steering box. Mine is all original and a 1975. There is not enough room to move the upper flange towards the steering column to remove the lower flange. It does not have a head on the base of the 2 fingers to unscrew them. I am sure someone has dealt with this. Thanks Again. Anxious to drive it.

  14. #14
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    The problem is that my rag joint has the 2 fingers that stick out of it attached to the flange that connects to the steering box. Mine is all original and a 1975. There is not enough room to move the upper flange towards the steering column to remove the lower flange. It does not have a head on the base of the 2 fingers to unscrew them. I am sure someone has dealt with this. Thanks Again. Anxious to drive it.

  15. #15
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    The problem is that my rag joint has the 2 pins that stick out of it attached to the flange that connects to the steering box. They do not unscrew. Thet are atteached to the steering box splines flange. Mine is all original and a 1975. There is not enough room to move the upper flange towards the steering column to remove the lower flange. I am sure someone has dealt with this. Thanks Again. Anxious to drive it.

  16. #16
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    I believe that you will have to move the steering column back slightly to get enough clearance to remove the coupling. Under the instrument panel there is a bracket holding the steering column in place. Loosen the nuts holding it and you should be able to move the steering column back. BUT - before you do this, carefully mark the position of the steering column shaft relative to the steering gearbox shaft. If you don't do this your steering wheel won't be centered when you put everything back together.

  17. #17
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    Thanks, I thought I had to loosen the column but some replies I got said I didn't have to. I don't know how they did it without unbolting the column. There is no room. They must of had a different setup. I have never seen a coupler that you were able to remove those pins. I think they may be pressed on. I appreciate your reply. Thanks Again Dean

  18. #18
    President Member ddub's Avatar
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    I contacted Jon Meyer about a rag joint for my 63. He rebuilds them for $125 exchange.
    Don Wilson, Centralia, WA

    40 Champion 4 door*
    50 Champion 2 door*
    53 Commander K Auto*
    53 Commander K overdrive*
    55 President Speedster
    62 GT 4Speed*
    63 Avanti R1
    64 Champ 1/2 ton

    * Formerly owned

  19. #19
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    Thanks but I was concerned with removing it. As I described in my posts

  20. #20
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    I just checked and my local NAPA is showing that they still carry the replacement rag-joint kit. This is what I used several years ago:
    https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...40/NDP6301440#

    NAPA part# NOE 6301440, $11.29

    Hopefully you'll be able to find one near you.

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