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1957 Transtar--been off the road for 25 plus years

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  • #16
    Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
    All new pistons, rings, bearings, valves, guides, reground cam, lifters, crank, rods on your long block.

    And no, there's no way it ever makes any financial sense to restore an old truck. It's an emotional decision which can have lasting benefits. Every time I look at my Stude truck, I get a very real pleasure out of the beautiful styling. Same thing about going a cruise or a week in Las Vegas; it's just how one spends disposable income, not about an investment which pays a profit.

    jack vines
    I totally agree Jack--points well made. I will be there this weekend. Haha

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    • #17
      Jeff, to your question about SDC membership, it is an annual fee. With it, you get a subscription to Turning Wheels, the club newsletter/magazine. With the great articles, classifieds and tech tips each month, it's worth it just for that.
      Membership in your local SDC chapter is an additional, and usually nominal, cost, but again, well worth the investment in meeting like-minded Studophiles, many with technical know-how dripping from their pores!
      Mike Davis
      1964 Champ 8E7-122 "Stuey"

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      • #18
        Hey John,
        I kind of thought about the term "burned up" when I put it on my post. Yep, it is very vague. Honestly, I am really going off what my dad told me years ago. Who knows, maybe I will go there and it won't be that bad like you said. I just need to get my butt there and get it done one way or another.

        Thanks for the optimism---and the well wishes!

        Jeff

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        • #19
          In terms of rust on this truck--it is very minimal. It was never driven in the winter from when we owned it just because we used it as a farm truck and had no use for it in the winter. The rust on it is basically in the lower corner of the passenger side right in front of the door. It has two small creases in the body and those are the two things to me that look the worst. There is no rust at all on the floorboards.

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          • #20
            Jeff, just guessing from where I sit, it is probably the rear brakes that are burned up, not the engine.

            Frankly Jack is dead on regarding what will be involved in the engine but for the short term, I would suggest getting some Seafoam soaking in the cylinders and misted down the intakes, mist into the cylinders as well. Make sure to put the plugs back in to close things up while you work on the brakes. Get the carb off and rebuild that and the fuel pump, keep misting the cylinders from time to time. Get the tank and fuel lines cleaned out.

            Once the brakes are done, then try turning over the engine. Once detrmined it turns over free, crank several times to clear the oil that has pooled in the cylinders. Now try starting it. If she runs, get her up to temperature and observe. If all looks good, drain the oil and replace oil and filter. Once cool, dump the coolant and replace.

            By getting her to start, you will build more enthusiasm without breaking the bank up front. The worst that could happen is you crack a ring. Hopefully you'll be eager to continue and get her rebuilt.

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            • #21
              Spokejr,
              I like your thoughts---I could also put the Marvel Mystery oil into the cylinders as well--had luck with that when restoring motorcycles anyway. I need clarification on something though---what do you mean by misting in terms of the intakes and cylinders? Are you saying get Seafoam or Mystery Oil into them?

              Thanks,
              Jeff

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              • #22
                Click image for larger version

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ID:	1708140So--how would it look going to a car show or motorcycle show with my "in progress" 1976 Yamaha XS650 in the back of my 1957 Studebaker Transtar?

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                • #23
                  I've got a 57 Transtar as well, or maybe I should say my wife has it. It's been in her family over 40 years and she parked it behind her moms garage in 02 and it has sat there ever since. Recently she said she wanted me to make it a runner again so thats what I'm doing with it. She wants it stock or as close as possible so thats the blueprint, As for value, if I was into profit I would be doing a 57 Chevy or 56 Ford F 100 but it was her call as she used it for her work truck for years. She had a deal with her dad, when she needed it she gave him a buck and she got the pink slip, when she was done she gave him the pink and she got her buck back. To me thats why we fix these Studebakers up instead of something more mainstream. I rode Indians when Harleys were popular so maybe it's me as well. One other reason, it is behind the garage with the key in the ignition where she left it. I will have to start with a battery and a tire.

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                  • #24
                    Great story! We are both hooked.

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                    • #25
                      Maybe one difference, she said it ran great the day she parked it other than it had a loss of brake fluid over time. I found the leak at the LR axel so that's a no brainer. I made a device to pressurize the oil system before I start it and I can easily turn it over with the fan so oil it, put fuel in it and.. I forgot I need to replace the water pump. When I turned it the seal let go and drained the coolant. oh well. I wish you a fun journey into your past with your truck.

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                      • #26
                        Jeff,

                        You can get Seafoam in a spray can. When used with the straw, mist can fogged into the cylinder and the manifold as well. Keep re-misting against the upper side of the cylinder wall and let the oil run down the wall so the top ring will be wet.

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                        • #27
                          If you come up on a stuck valve, usually an exh, oil it up on top then tap rocker arm tip over valve with brass hammer to break loose. you may need to pull starter and work against ring gear teeth, working back and forth, i wouldn't put much strain on crank bolt. there is a good chance you can break it loose then get it running especially if exhaust system is intact.once muffler and pipes rust off damp air infiltrates the engine causing rust through open valves. Best of Luck , Doofus

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                          • #28
                            More good information! Thank you everyone thus far. I am two weeks out from my adventure of trying to get the Transtar Deluxe running again--or at least if nothing else, assessing it to see what is needed.

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                            • #29
                              Bill A,
                              Do you have any pictures of your Transtar?

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by jsmith1107 View Post
                                Bill A,
                                Do you have any pictures of your Transtar?
                                Yes, there are a couple posted in an earlier posting "A new project" I believe it was in general discussion. I would re-post them here but I'm not all that computer savvy, it's just easier to find the earlier posting.

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