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Carburetor Carter WE-715S

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  • #16
    Before adding any pressure regulator, I'd use a gauge to check the pressure. If you don't have one, many of the auto parts stores will loan one to you with a deposit.

    I also have a 50 Champion with fuel problems due to today's gas boiling too easily. I'm making a heat shield to fit over the exhaust manifold to hopefully keep the carb cooler when I park.

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    • #17
      My 50 Champion has a 532S. I resurrected it from a long slumber. I only took off the top of the carb and cleaned the fuel bowl, replaced the accelerator pump. I also installed a new fuel pump. It runs great if I pour gas in the carb and quits when used up. Any ideas?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by tim333 View Post
        My 50 Champion has a 532S. I resurrected it from a long slumber. I only took off the top of the carb and cleaned the fuel bowl, replaced the accelerator pump. I also installed a new fuel pump. It runs great if I pour gas in the carb and quits when used up. Any ideas?
        Remove the line at the carb and see if the fuel pump is pumping any fuel. Someone lined my 50 Champion tank 22 years ago when they restored the car. I spent several hours stripping the crap out, and now have a perfectly clean tank. The junk was falling off and plugging up the fuel line. Also the corn crap gas had destroyed my fuel pump. At home I can buy the good gas without corn, but out of state I got stuck with the crap gas.

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        • #19
          Sounds like problems with ethanol gas. Nowlen carb has tested gas in our area (Spokane) and found readings as high as 21% ethanol, which obviously is out of the question. So you could end up with vapor lock problems after it gets warmed up. I would suggest using non-ethanol gas. My '50 convertible used to die 10 times or so while trying to back out of the garage. Switched to non-ethanol and now I just start it up and immediately back out. More expensive, but worth it. Here is a site that helps you locate non-ethanol gas: http://pure-gas.org

          Also, I have had good luck treating the gas with PRI-G gas stabilizer since I never know how long the gas is going to be sitting in the tank. You can stabilize up to 7 years with that if you add a little every year. It is a favorite of off grid preppers who have to store for their generators.

          Non sure if you have this on your exhaust manifold, but if you have a heat riser valve make sure that is operating freely. They have a tendency to get very sticky.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by altair View Post
            There are a couple of different design manifolds and cast bases for the WE carbs. On one model the heat riser only heats the manifold and the other model the heat riser heats up in to the cast base. I have two WE carbs complete with the cast bases but the cast bases are different. The model with the heater going up into the cast base is the 715S. Perhaps your heat riser is over cooking the carb and fuel
            I have two Carter WE-715S carbs (green background), and neither one has exhaust going into the base. The manifold has only the hole for the intake mixture. Both of the carb bases have two holes, which lead to manifold vacuum by way of two slots in the base mounting gasket.

            On the club tour yesterday we stopped to view 3 collections, and I took pictures of these two carb bottoms. The one with a plain bottom looks identical to my Carter WE-715S except for my two holes. The other carb with the exhaust pocket also looks close to the Carter WE, but the mounting bolt hole is spaced out more. Unfortunately neither of these two carbs had the identification tag on them.

            Just wondering if anyone has any more information on them? Thanks, Tom

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