I got the whole works on Craigs list Cross member, a-arms, new rack, new spindles, new brakes and all that and a complete air ride management system for 1200 bucks. this is what I started with and what I ended up with.
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1939 Commander coupe
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And this was the weekend progress, I got all the old cossmember cleaned away and new boxing plates made to patch that area. I have to get all the front sheetmetal lined up so I can center it in the fenderwells and make a new core support bracket that goes from the new crossmember to the bottom of the core support. I hope I can use the old one but I think its going to be too short to reach now. Hopefully I don't have to start from scratch.
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I decided to take a break from the dirty work and fish all my dash parts out of the molasses bath they have been soaking in for the past 3-4 months.
I have all of the parts including the radio and clock delete plates. Now what to do about the gagues? Has anyone had any luck having these rebuilt for a 12 v system?
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You can use the 6 volt gauges along with their corresponding 6 volt senders, by using a voltage regulator on each gauge.
RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
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I am considering putting something like this behind the speaker grill in place of the speaker.
(It would go Unseen unless the car is running)
And then giving the stock gauges a quick make-over (new paint, lettering and glass)
The original Oil and Temp seem to have been manual and not electric and the leads were cut off right at the back of the gauge.
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Well its finally all welded up and now I can get on to the fun stuff!
Like cramming the 341 Desoto Hemi backed by a GM 700R4 in the engine bay.
Last night I finally put the hotheads transmission adapter to use. If you have never used any of the Hotheads early Hemi stuff its is really amazing quality. Its expensive, but its nice and they are about the only place around that offers anything for these old dinosaur engines.
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Well its now between the frame rails!
As of now I have not had to cut any floor, firewall or frame, but I am going to start trimming the floor so it can come up a few more inches.
I would like the center of the tail shaft to sit a little higher in the x cross-member and then I can level the front of the motor so the intake is parallel to the frame rails. I was really happy that is as close as it is for a first stab at it. I still have about an inch between the firewall and the back of the passenger side head. I have to get the front clip back on to make sure I have radiator clearance but I think it will be just right.Last edited by HemiCoupe; 07-01-2016, 06:54 AM.
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That FireDome looks great between those rails.Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
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