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Thread: Transmission Troubles - help needed

  1. #1
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    Transmission Troubles - help needed

    I am new Studebaker owner and am having trouble with car not shifting out of reverse. Need to find good Mechanic near Hobart In.

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    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    If this is a 3 Speed Manual Trans. with Overdrive there is likely a problem with the Overdrive Unit, the Trans. Shifter adjustment or loose Grommets on shift arms.

    Check to be sure it is ALL the way IN or OUT of Overdrive.

    What year and model do you have?
    StudeRich
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    Golden Hawk Member jclary's Avatar
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    Hey Ghost...welcome to the forum. A little more info could be helpful. Like, what Studebaker do you have? Is it a manual or automatic transmission. If it is manual, does it have an overdrive? With any of these, it could be something as simple as linkage adjustment. For automatics, Perhaps, a bit more complicated. As far as finding a good mechanic...you are in a region of some good knowledgeable Studebaker Drivers Club members. Hopefully, some of them can step up and assist. Just be patient, as they are not always logged onto the forum.
    John Clary
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    Commander Member FleetMaster68's Avatar
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    tell us some more. I am in Lowell and work near Portage. PM me and maybe I can drop by one evening and help you out.
    Scott K

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    it is a 63 r2 lark with a on the floor t-10 4sp with Hurst shifter, no over drive. I have to shut it off to get in reverse. sometimes when I put it back in first to go.it feels like the emergence brake is on and just won't go forward. if I put it back in reverse it will go backward. Checked all linkages seem fine. the man I bought it from said it only had 1200 miles on new clutch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lightning View Post
    it is a 63 r2 lark with a on the floor t-10 4sp with Hurst shifter, no over drive. I have to shut it off to get in reverse. sometimes when I put it back in first to go.it feels like the emergence brake is on and just won't go forward. if I put it back in reverse it will go backward. Checked all linkages seem fine. the man I bought it from said it only had 1200 miles on new clutch.
    Do you know if it has a "hill holder" option? Or in Studebaker speak-No-Roll. Disc brakes on front? Could be more than one problem. Having to shut it off to get in reverse indicates clutch not fully releasing. Feeling like emergency brake is on could be hill holder not releasing or improperly adjusted and not letting brake pressure release on clutch pedal release.
    Last edited by karterfred88; 02-24-2016 at 04:10 PM.

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    A "NEW" Studebaker owner and you start with a 63 R2 4spd Lark?.....Damn your not messin around. Wish I had the money to skip the entry level flathead. More power to ya....
    "Fords are cars Studebakers are Automobiles" -Jerry Washburn

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    Speedster Member nwi-region-rat's Avatar
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    I hear these guys are good.....and it's in Lake Station. http://www.hamilton-machine.com/

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    The following only applies to the ability to go backwards but not forwards and the feeling that the e-brake is applied:::::

    Could be rear drum wheel cyls are stuck. Mine would do that occasionally until I rebuilt and converted to DOT-5 brake fluid.

    As for the other, could be the clutch is hanging up a little and dragging.

    Has it been sitting??

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    Could it be in two gears? I would check the shift rods adjustment.

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    Commander Member FleetMaster68's Avatar
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    those were my thoughts

    Quote Originally Posted by paul shuffleburg View Post
    Could it be in two gears? I would check the shift rods adjustment.
    I am not familiar enough with the t-10 to comment on specifics. but I had the same thoughts. It sounds like at times either the internal or external linkages are not adjusted to position in neutral when moving between quadrants to shift gears. I have had three-on-the-tree do this when improperly set to neutral points or worn linkage bushings were letting things stop in different positions. Should learn about this since I have 2 t-10 project cars.
    How much snow hit Hobart last night? 12 or so in Lowell.

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    The snow was so heavy it didn't look as deep as they say, looked like only 8 inches or so but they say 15.5 inches. I was doing some research on line. From what I see is that the pilot bearing is sticking. I don't know how to change that. it does act like gears a binding up. I am sure it is not the brakes.

    Would also like to find 373 gears it has 331 currently.

  13. #13
    Silver Hawk Member 52-fan's Avatar
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    We don't know enough about the condition or previous use of the car. Transmission problems are sometimes caused by oil soaked/broken engine and transmission mounts letting the driveline sag and putting a bind on the linkage. How long has it been since the car was in regular use?


    "In the heart of Arkansas."
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lightning View Post
    The snow was so heavy it didn't look as deep as they say, looked like only 8 inches or so but they say 15.5 inches. I was doing some research on line. From what I see is that the pilot bearing is sticking. I don't know how to change that. it does act like gears a binding up. I am sure it is not the brakes.

    Would also like to find 373 gears it has 331 currently.
    Pilot is a bushing on Studes. Need to pull trans, look at nose of trans input shaft, if galled, discolored, then there might be a "chance" of it "binding", but it would bind between gears as well and make all shifts bad, not just into reverse. Would not feel like a "drag" when trying to move. Sounds like clutch problem. Perhaps the TO bearing, or arms on release shaft have swiveled (common Stude problem). I think you need to pull trans, bell housing and clutch assembly and take a look. Wrong disk, wrong TO bearing, spring clips not hooked to arms on release shaft, galled trans input shaft bearing retainer, wrong pressure plate height could all be contributors. Just because it was new 1200 miles ago doesn't mean it was done right, or everything checked when it was apart. Not possible to have trans in two gears at same time and still move the main shaft at all-will lock up. If it moves, drive it up to 30 MPH or so leave it in gear, push the clutch pedal in, shut the engine off, if it feels like you have the brakes lightly applied and or slows down quickly, the clutch is not fully releasing. If you move the shifter to neutral and the drag goes away-you've narrowed it down to the clutch.

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    that is what it does binds in gear. it does shift harder than it should in other gears. I did take it to one guy he checked it out and said it was throw out bearing and replaced it. asked him to replace every thing when he had it apart but he said it was all good just throw out bearing bad. not happy with that person. any way so would the input shaft need to be changed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lightning View Post
    that is what it does binds in gear. it does shift harder than it should in other gears. I did take it to one guy he checked it out and said it was throw out bearing and replaced it. asked him to replace every thing when he had it apart but he said it was all good just throw out bearing bad. not happy with that person. any way so would the input shaft need to be changed?
    No, Don't give up on the clutch just yet. Park the car on a grade, move it to neutral see if it rolls. Back in gear push clutch all the way in, does it roll just as easily? I bet the clutch release arms have moved on the release shaft and not releasing the clutch, or the wrong TO bearing was installed. Unless the person replacing the clutch changed the pilot or the T10 is from a different car, the pilot is rarely the cause of your type problem. If I were you, I'd pull off everything including the clutch pressure plate and disk, and start comparing it to a correct one. Then check, that when the clutch rod moves the arm on the bell housing it moves far enough to actually release. Those arms that push on the throw out bearing are notorious for moving on the cross shaft. Someone with a manual trans car can maybe give you a picture of how it is supposed to look, and how far the arm should rotate to release the pressure plate. I don't have one, but all indications are the clutch assembly is your problem (unless the pilot bushing was replaced with the wrong one or damaged installing it). I would think there is a forum member in Indiana near you to suggest a repair facility if you aren't up to some disassembly.
    This is from a 2008 forum discussion--may help

    "You may well have the right rod, but the lever on the end of the bellhousing cross shaft may have slipped. This is a known issue with Studebakers, particularly if a heavy-duty clutch is used. Typically, they slip a bit, the clutch gets adjusted, it works again for a while, and slips some more, and eventually there's no adjustment left.

    IIRC, the hole in the end of the lever should be at or near the 6:00 position directly below the shaft with the clutch pedal UP. If it it's not, that could be your problem. The fix is to move the lever back to its proper orientation and weld it.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands"
    Last edited by karterfred88; 03-02-2016 at 12:50 AM.

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    I'm fine with working on it if I know what I have to do. Can any one tell me where to get diagram of what things are supposed to look like?

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    Golden Hawk Member StudeRich's Avatar
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    What things? The Inside of the Bellhousing, the exterior clutch linkage, what?

    Between the excellent Pictures in the Chassis Parts Catalog and the Shop Manual you will be good to go, not to mention the correct instructions.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner




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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lightning View Post
    The snow was so heavy it didn't look as deep as they say, looked like only 8 inches or so but they say 15.5 inches. I was doing some research on line. From what I see is that the pilot bearing is sticking. I don't know how to change that. it does act like gears a binding up. I am sure it is not the brakes.

    Would also like to find 373 gears it has 331 currently.
    I had a crank pilot bushing too tight on a input shaft once. That will hold the trans input and keep it spinning causing a lot of problems. All I did after figuring it out ,was pull transmission and hone inside of bushing till it was loose enough

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lightning View Post
    The snow was so heavy it didn't look as deep as they say, looked like only 8 inches or so but they say 15.5 inches. I was doing some research on line. From what I see is that the pilot bearing is sticking. I don't know how to change that. it does act like gears a binding up. I am sure it is not the brakes.

    Would also like to find 373 gears it has 331 currently.
    I had a crank pilot bushing too tight on a input shaft once. That will hold the trans input and keep it spinning causing a lot of problems. All I did after figuring it out ,was pull transmission and hone inside of bushing till it was loose enough
    Randy Wilkin
    1946 M5 Streetrod
    Hillsboro,Ohio 45133

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    I did adjust clutch know it is working. It is now at the end of adjustment. So it seems that the cross shaft is not correct. Just driving a little bit it feels like it is fading already. For now it is not locking up.

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    The brassed lever arm on the clutch shaft between the bell housing and frame is slipping. The joint fails and the arm rotates instead of the clutch release shaft. You are better off finding a replacement rather than try to repair yours as it is now out of position on the shaft.
    I see you are Indiana. Anywhere close to Cincinnati, oh?

  22. #22
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    Hobart In. is on top north west corner of In. 4 or 5 hours away from Cincinnati.

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    fadeI checked that lever it is drilled and pins put threw so that is not slipping. I did make a slight longer clutch adjustment linkage it is working but it seems to fade faster than what it should.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lightning View Post
    fadeI checked that lever it is drilled and pins put threw so that is not slipping. I did make a slight longer clutch adjustment linkage it is working but it seems to fade faster than what it should.
    Time to pull bell housing. Remove shaft with TO bearing levers from bell housing. Rotate the arms back to where they belong so they can push the bearing as intended, weld the arms to the shaft and reinforce the welds, reinstall the shaft and bell housing and all will work well for a long time. If necessary, find a new undamaged shaft, weld the arms before installing it and then you won't have to waste time trying to get the levers back into the right spot before welding them. That's why adding length to the outside rod helps initially, but you've run out of rotation as the internal arms keep slipping on the shaft. No easy fix from the outside, only way to fix it and prevent it from happening again, sorry.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by karterfred88; 03-24-2016 at 04:12 PM. Reason: added photo/diagram

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ghost Lightning View Post
    I'm fine with working on it if I know what I have to do. Can any one tell me where to get diagram of what things are supposed to look like?
    It's called the chassis parts catalog and all of the Studebaker vendors have it as a book or on a CD.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 01-06-2019 at 01:01 AM.
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    would any one have a part number so I could by a new shaft. also could I just use old one and weld it where it is now sense I have it adjusted where it is working now?

  27. #27
    President Member RadioRoy's Avatar
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    The part number is in the chassis parts catalog.
    Last edited by RadioRoy; 01-06-2019 at 01:01 AM.
    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

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  28. #28
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    Ghost Lightening-Part#, in the Avanti manual is either 536298 or 1550523 depends on production date, 1550523 also appears to be for a 62 Hawk and Daytona and many others with 4 speed, but you do really need a manual specific to your vehicle. A lot of the parts are the same for Larks, Hawks and Avantis, but not all. If you just want to try to use yours, remove the external linkage except the outside arm on the shaft, use a LARGE pipe wrench on the external lever, force the lever bottom towards the front of the car, to rotate it as much as possible to get the pin roughly horizontal when not pushing against the TO bearing. Then when you take the shaft out, the levers that push on the TO bearing collar should be close to where they need to be. Make sure the tips of the levers that press on the bearing are aligned and parallel to the shaft so they push equally or they will bind the TO bearing and cause premature wear. Best bet is to find a used one in good shape, weld it first and install. You can try the various Studebaker vendors but best bet is to ask here and check the Studebaker Swap page. Mine is not available-sorry.
    PS If you find the right number you need, it would be best to start a new post asking for the part by name and number. A request on this thread will probably go unnoticed as it is now getting "long of tooth" and interest wanes the longer it lingers.
    Last edited by karterfred88; 03-29-2016 at 12:01 AM.

  29. #29
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    I have managed to fix. the forks that push the throw out bearing was slipping on shaft i drilled a hole threw center and put in a hardened expanable pin, don't have a welder. Have not had issue with peddle fading. I occasionally spray white grease in hurts shifter linkage and it don't lock up anymore.

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    Hey ghost lightning. Sent you a pm

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    I would like to see how you remedied it.
    My T10 equipped GT Hawk has approximately 1500 miles on the clutch and is experiencing similar problems. I have yet to diagnose it or take it apart.
    If you want to drive to suburban Chicago in the spring, i can try to weld it for you. I am up near ORD.
    Would give me a chance to see the problem and the fix.
    Brian
    62 Hawk - Wisconsin barn find

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