Cool/Heat: No defrost in my 62 Hawk

[Timj]

I wanted to get everyone's opinion on this one. I just ordered a new evaporator with heater option for my 62 Hawk. I plan to hook up the heater for now and the remaining parts of the A/C this coming summer. It is my daily driver and I can't freeze through another winter. My current defroster does not work at all, the motor turns but is so rusted the wires start to smoke as soon as you apply power. I unhooked the power to it for obvious safety reasons. I doubt just the heater working is going to do much. Should I rebuild the original defroster, or look into modifying something pulling fresh air from the passenger fender vent? I recall somewhere here, someone saying the defrost barely worked when new. I did an advance search and found little in this regard. Thanks in advance for you direction.

[E. Davis]

I can't speak for the 62's but the defrosters on my 59 and my 61 worked fine but of course the blower motors were and are good. I would guess you will not experience the winter cold that we do in Montana so the original system would be more than adequate if you replace the blower motor.

[karterfred88]

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?25425-How-a-climatizer-works&highlight=climatizer

This seems to explain some of the defroster problems on pre 63 Hawks, Need to keep the right vent outside door open. Of course you still need a blower motor to move the air.

[Timj]

Thanks guys, good information so far. I guess it helps to know what to call the defrost Thingy, when searching. The "Climatizer" link is some good information, thank you.

[StudeRich]

You will need good 3/8 Inch Hoses and 2 "T"'s that actually allow FLOW of hot water though the circular Heater Core to get any Defrost action and of course a good Def. Fan Motor.
The Def. System is recirculating so it matters not what you do with the Fender Door and under seat heating system if you still have it for Def. to work.

If you HAVE to have Heat AND defrost this Winter there is going to be some money spent on re-saleable Parts, if the ultimate system is going to be a Vintage Air Heat and A/C System.

Maybe Tenn. is too hot for it (Over 80'?), but I still much prefer the old 4 Windows and 2 Vent Windows Air cond.

[r1lark]

I just ordered a new evaporator with heater option for my 62 Hawk.

I'm assuming here that the new AC/heat system doesn't have any defroster take-offs. But is there a way you could add them, perhaps by cutting a couple of holes and epoxying rings on so you can attach the defroster hoses to the new AC/heat system? The defroster hoses could then be run to the existing defroster ducts just under the windshield.

[Timj]

Thanks StudeRich. I bought this evaporator that includes a heater from Fleabay. It cost the same as a stand alone heater, so I went for it. I plan on using the Climatizer heater thermostat, because the new heater does not include one. I also plan to buy the York to Sanden bracket kit that includes the compressor and other components this spring. It looks like I will be rebuilding the defrost and hopefully using the new heater core in the evaporator. Thanks for your input. Tim

[Timj]

The new system does not have a defrost port. It is just a cheaper under the dash model. That's is a interesting idea. It will arrive tomorrow, so I will take a look at it. Thanks Tim.

[wlfrench]

I don't know about you but the heater in my 62 GT will drive you out of the car. The defroster not so much. Both the heater core and the Radiator have been replaced. Turn on both your heater and defroster and crack open your vent window and let her warm up before taking off.

[Timj]

You may have a point about the radiator. I bet it will need attention as well. I'm hoping new hoses and a new heater will help. I'm sure I will have to go thru the complete cooling system when I add the a/c this summer.

[Timj]

UPDATE:
This weekend I was able to pull out all the old heater hoses and I found there was no climatizer heater control valve. I currently have a universal valve in it's place. I now know what that slot in the firewall was for. I rebuilt the defroster with a new motor, paint and new air hoses. I also had to order the T-fittings for the defrost water lines, but they should arrive in a couple of more days. I was also able to install my new under the dash AC / Heater combo evaporator. So far it heats up the interior pretty well, of course it it still pretty warm here. (65 degrees) So far, I only have this question. It may not be too much of an issue, but I'm still curious. With the heat blower on and the engine at idle, the air is somewhat warm. If I rev up the engine to 1800-2000 RPM, you can feel the temperature of the air increase a good bit. I plan to measure this change digitally, in the next few days. Could this be a water pump going out? I don't think the belt is slipping, but I would rather it be that, than the water pump.

[63t-cab]

I like Your interior/dash, and the under dash unit looks nice in wood grain

[ATTACH=CONFIG]49151[/ATTACH]UPDATE:
This weekend I was able to pull out all the old heater hoses and I found there was no climatizer heater control valve. I currently have a universal valve in it's place. I now know what that slot in the firewall was for. I rebuilt the defroster with a new motor, paint and new air hoses. I also had to order the T-fittings for the defrost water lines, but they should arrive in a couple of more days. I was also able to install my new under the dash AC / Heater combo evaporator. So far it heats up the interior pretty well, of course it it still pretty warm here. (65 degrees) So far, I only have this question. It may not be too much of an issue, but I'm still curious. With the heat blower on and the engine at idle, the air is somewhat warm. If I rev up the engine to 1800-2000 RPM, you can feel the temperature of the air increase a good bit. I plan to measure this change digitally, in the next few days. Could this be a water pump going out? I don't think the belt is slipping, but I would rather it be that, than the water pump.

[BILT4ME]

I removed and cleaned and lubricated the blower motor in my 59 Lark. It protested loudly on cold mornings, so it forced me to take the time to do it. It took me about two hours taking my time, working with old wires, making it so I could unplug it at the fan now instead of only at the switch. I cleaned it with electric motor cleaner (like brake cleaner) and used Valvoline Palladium moly grease to lube the bushing ends. It operates almost silently now and moves a lot more air because it's not having to overcome the resistance of the dry, crusty bushings of 56 years ago.

Now, only 4,327 things left to rebuild or replace.........