Brakes: 59 Silver Hawk. Slow responding brakes... I'm guessing the booster. Suggestions sought

[modernpinups]

Hi Everyone.

I bought a '59 Silver Hawk and everything seems in order with her except the brakes.

They DO work but are very stiff and slow. So I am guessing its the booster. I dont see any leaks from the hoses, etc

I'm not well versed with the systems and don't know if a typical mechanic is the place to bring this problem.

I live in the country between Rochester and Buffalo, NY so there are not a lot of options.

Any suggestions? Just throwing it out there. I've attached 2 photos of the booster for those interested in the details.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Warren Webb]

One of your problems may be the flex lines. When our cars were built there wasn't date codes on them. That didn't happen until the past 20 or so years ago. If they don't have a date code on them it is time to replace them, period. I get mine from Jim Turner. He makes them in either rubber or stainless steel with fresh hose, not a hose that might have been in a wherehouse for the past 5 years or so.

http://www.turnerbrake.com/index.html

Your brake booster also requires an ounce or two of "Neetsfoot oil" every year. Chances are good that's never been done. I got mine from a leather goods store.

Are the brakes dragging? Has the car been sitting for any long period of time before you? The wheel cylinders may be "gummed up" or rust may be holding them from operating properly. Standard "DOT 3" brake fluid is hydroscopic & absorbs moisture, which can lead to rust in which case replacing the & master & wheel cylinders will be needed, unless they can be honed out with no pits showing, then a kit would be used along with flushing the entire system & a fresh refill of brake fluid.

[52 Ragtop]

As Warren stated, Brake hoses were NOT Date Coded until "about" 1977, Raybestos states on their website they "recommend" that rubber brake hoses be replaced every 3-5 years. I won't go into my opinion on that, but they would sell more hose!

There "appears" to be a white stripe on one of the booster hoses. That probably has the hose manufacturer and the date on it. Per the DOT, the manufacturer of the hose and the date it was made (the hose, NOT when the brake hose was assembled) every 6 inches. IE: GDYR 10/2003, would be Goodyear, October 2003, they are NOT required to have the day, only the month and year.
I only buy 100 feet at a time so that I can get the latest from BrakeQuip.

IF your hose do not have a date on them, or if they are older that 5 years, I would replace ALL 3 of them, plus the 2 at the booster. Brakes and steering are the two places NOT to skimp on any parts or repairs.

Jim

[modernpinups]

Thanks guys!

So you are thinking check the lines first. Then maybe the cylinders (they aren't dragging, the brakes are just slow to stop)

If those seem to be ok, are the inner workings of the booster the next step and if so, can a regular country mechanic deal with that or is it something that get sent off somewhere? If it gets sent off, is there a main place they go?

Forgive my ignorance, just trying to manage this as efficiently as possible.

[Warren Webb]

Check with some of the local club members on who they would recommend. The hydovac booster was used in some trucks but no many cars other than Studebaker. Also, if your checking the rear brakes a mechanic should be aware of how the rear brake drums are removed & reinstalled. If done improperly can cause major problems. If you haven't already I'd recommend getting the service manual. It is available on a cd that has the parts book included & cheaper & easier to use than the paper books. Most Studebaker vendors carry them.

[bezhawk]

There is also a fiber filter in the front of the brake booster thst should be cleaned every so often. It is behind the 2" perforated metal guard at the top of the booster. It is retained with a wire clip. Wash , dry, and replace.
Do not oil it. I would also recommend the neatsfoot oil for the brake booster leather diaphragm. 1 oz every year. It goes into the pipe plug on the back side towards the battery.

[modernpinups]

Thanks everyone. Your help is much appreciated.

[TWChamp]

As Warren mentioned, my first guess is you have stuck pistons. I would remove all 4 drums and have someone lightly and slowly push the brake pedal just enough to see if each brake shoe moves outward. You may have to hold the shoe that moves first, then see if the other shoe starts moving, to be sure both pistons in each cylinder move freely.

My neighbor's brake are a bit less than they should be because he has one or more stuck pistons. That's next on his list of things to check and repair.

BTW, my brake line rusted out and I lost my brakes 4 days ago when I was 400 miles from home. It's not fun driving with 2 wheel brakes, but I drove during the middle of the night when traffic was light, and I made it home safely yesterday. GM brake and fuel lines are the worst of any car I've ever had for rusting out.

[modernpinups]

As Warren mentioned, my first guess is you have stuck pistons. ...

BTW, my brake line rusted out and I lost my brakes 4 days ago when I was 400 miles from home. It's not fun driving with 2 wheel brakes, but I drove during the middle of the night when traffic was light, and I made it home safely yesterday. GM brake and fuel lines are the worst of any car I've ever had for rusting out.

thanks for the advice and sorry to hear about your brakes. I can't wait to get mine on the road, but being in NY, it may have to wait til the spring