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picture of Transmission Shift Rod Adjusting Gage J-4690

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: picture of Transmission Shift Rod Adjusting Gage J-4690

    I'm trying to get my column shifter un-stuck in my 51 Land Cruiser with 3-speed manual transmission. I'm trying to isolate the location in the shift mechanism where it is jammed.

    Does anyone have a digitized copy of a picture of a J-4690 Transmission Shift Rod Adjusting Gage? My service manual calls for this tool to be used to adjust the gearshift rods, but the tool is not shown in the illustration of the lower control box. I'd like to see a picture of the tool when it is installed. Something similar to the picture in post #6 from the following thread:



    Also, the manual states, "Check to see that the shift levers on the transmission are in the neutral position. This can be determined by the action of the interlock." I saw the figure which shows the location of the interlock between the 1st-reverse shift lever and the 2nd-3rd shift lever. If I disconnect the gearshift linkages and manually try to move the shift levers on the transmission, how will I know the "action of the interlock" is correct, or if it's not working?

    Thanks for your help.
    Last edited by Mark L; 09-07-2015, 12:06 AM.
    Mark L

  • #2
    Check your transmission mount. I bet it is soft and squishy from being oil soaked. Then after it is known to be good, disconnect the shift yolks from the transmission levers by removing the clevis pins. Then make sure the rubber and steel bushings in the levers are also good.
    At the lower end of the steering column should be a small 3/16" hole in each lever. You can slide a drill bit through them when they are lined up in neutral. That makes sure that the column shifter is in neutral. Then you crawl back under the car, and adjust the shifting rod yolks until the clevis in slides easily into place on each shifter rod. Then you can REMOVE the drill bit, and you should be good to go.
    This procedure assures that both the transmission, and shifter are in the same gear at the same time without binding.
    Also if the upper potmetal shifter bell is badly worn this won't help too much, and it will have to be replaced.
    A good practice to prevent binding when shifting into 2nd, is to make sure you are in neutral before pushing the lever up into 2nd. in other words, speed shifting won't work unless everything is up to snuff.
    Last edited by bezhawk; 09-07-2015, 01:53 PM.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      In addition to what Bez just posted, if the shift box on the steering column is worn out, I find shifting in a strict H pattern will get you by for many years, if you can find the parts to fix it. In other words, don't palm the shift lever, but grip it and move it through the H pattern.

      To check the tranny interlock system, just move each of the two shift levers to the middle position, then move one lever into gear and the other lever should be locked in neutral position by the interlock plunger. If you can shift both levers into gear, then the interlock isn't working.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
        /Cut/I find shifting in a strict H pattern will get you by for many years, if you can find the parts to fix it. In other words, don't palm the shift lever, but grip it and move it through the H pattern./Cut/
        I have seen this posted several times, probably by you, each time I have to wonder if there is any other way to shift a Column 3 Speed?

        I always bear away from the wheel out of Low, through Neutral and into second, and on a properly functioning Car never in 55 Years had an issue.
        How else could you go through Neutral?
        Don't you pretty much HAVE to follow the Built in "H" Pattern?

        This process of NOT following the Pattern has sometimes been referred to as "Speed Shifting", that seems to me like a wrong term, as I do that quite often, to me just means Faster still done EXACTLY the same way!

        "Power Shifting" is a whole different process of not releasing the Throttle, which you would never do on the Street, possibly leaving Transmission Parts on the road for a Block! But still has nothing to do with the shifting of the lever.
        Last edited by StudeRich; 09-07-2015, 03:37 PM.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #5
          I've mentioned it a couple times. My 54 Chevy had a lot of wear on the shifter, so I had to pull the shifter towards me as I lifted it up to the neutral position, then let it move forward in the neutral position and push it up to second gear. It's like if the shift lever had a giant H pattern cut in a plate way out by the shift knob. I never had a problem with that car when I used the H pattern, but if I shifted using an X pattern it would often lock up.

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          • #6
            Here is a pic of J-4690, and the modification to make a J-4690a. I believe the shaft diameter is 5/16", but don't remember for certain.
            Click image for larger version

Name:	J-4690.shift.adj.jpg
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Size:	109.2 KB
ID:	1700190 Click image for larger version

Name:	J-4690a. shift.adj.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	73.9 KB
ID:	1700191
            Restorations by Skip Towne

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            • #7
              will this tool #j4690 work 0n 1954 champion w/od?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by studebaker champ View Post
                will this tool #j4690 work 0n 1954 champion w/od?
                I would think not, due to the major change from '52 to '53 on the entire shifting linkage. The semi sealed greaseable "Shift Box" on the steering column was eliminated in '53.

                An Allen wrench that snuggly fits the holes in each shift lever will do.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                SDC Member Since 1967

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