Silver Hawk Major Modifications

[Jeff_H]

I thought someone would chime in about the weird box below the rear passenger floor just behind the front seat. When I drilled holes for the inside (inboard) bucket seat bolts I had to drill through the regular floor sheet metal then through another piece of sheet metal. When I looked under the car (59 Silver Hawk) I found a box attached to the underside of the floor, the box is about 3 1/2" deep and 12" wide. It's just dead space and I don't know it's purpose?? Does anyone know the purpose of this box, it's on both sides of the car. You can see the back side of the box in this pic, sorry...I accidentally attached it 4 times and don't know how to delete. It drops down just in front of the muffler bracket.

There are "wells" on each side behind the front seat for more foot room. Are those covered over for some reason???



This picture from a few years ago when I was redoing the driveshaft tunnel on my '53 (essentially the same as your Hawk).

[Treblig]

I think the boxes you are describing are the rear seat footwells used on the coupes.

Here's a pic from Classic Enterprises replacement parts catalog.

The boxes on my car are similar to these pics you posted, but the ones shown in your pics are designed wrong. The floor is flat on a Silver Hawk, these boxes look like they fit against a non-flat surface with an angle at one end. I appreciate your pics and your post but something is not right with the pics you posted....unless I'm looking at it all wrong?? I am a machinist, so angles and surface features are something I am very aware of.
Please continue to help!!
treblig

[Treblig]

There are "wells" on each side behind the front seat for more foot room. Are those covered over for some reason???

[ATTACH=CONFIG]43373[/ATTACH]

This picture from a few years ago when I was redoing the driveshaft tunnel on my '53 (essentially the same as your Hawk).

Jeff, What you are saying makes a lot of sense. At first I thought they were foot wells but I have not lifted the carpet so I don't know if the floor has been modified. It makes perfect sense for the manufacturer to make a box feature to make more room for the rear passenger's feet, that would be great!! The car has new carpeting and I have had no reason to pull it up. The carpet looks brand new and was installed very nicely. I was hoping that another Silver Hawk owner would know the answer to this "box" question?? Besides...why would anyone cover the boxes and make "less room" for the rear passenger's feet????

treblig

[Treblig]

I think the boxes you are describing are the rear seat footwells used on the coupes.

Here's a pic from Classic Enterprises replacement parts catalog.

DEEPNHOCK, Now that I've looked more closely to "Jeff_H's" pics, I think you may be correct??/

treblig

[garrilla]

Treblig, I truly admire your patience. The purists keep after you and you show them nothing but kindness. If anything you've proven yourself as more than capable to modify your Hawk as you see fit. I believe anything can be improved on, especially cars that are 50+ years old. I'm especially interested in your Mustang II conversion as I am considering that myself. I can't wait to see more updates of your progress. I still have my hopes up that a modified forum will be created that was discussed a few weeks ago.

[Treblig]

Treblig, I truly admire your patience. The purists keep after you and you show them nothing but kindness. If anything you've proven yourself as more than capable to modify your Hawk as you see fit. I believe anything can be improved on, especially cars that are 50+ years old. I'm especially interested in your Mustang II conversion as I am considering that myself. I can't wait to see more updates of your progress. I still have my hopes up that a modified forum will be created that was discussed a few weeks ago.

I too would love a "modified forum". I read many posts where other members have asked (begged) for a modified forum...but alas, the moderators haven't responded. But that's OK, I'll document everything I do for everyone to see. I imagine everyone here will get sick ad tired of viewing my posts. I will take as many pics as I can even though I know it slows the process down. I have to wash and clean all the grease off my hands then dry them well pull the camera out and take some good clear picks then turn around and get my hands all dirty again. The Silver Hawk will be a new challenge for me because the front frame is not straight. The center line of the front wheels intersects a point on the frame that is not straight. The frame curves out in the section where the Mustang II cross member mounts. So I'm going to have to make a decision to either weld a straight section to the frame where it curves out OR leave the curve and work around it. It seems easier to weld in a straight section but we'll see. The other problem is that the Mustang II companies want to know the frame width?? I measured the frame width in the area where the king pin center line should be...it's right in the middle of the curved part of the frame...this makes it very hard to tell the Mustang II companies what my frame width is. I need to make the decision soon so that I can order the cross member in time to install it during school summer break. I either have to decide to make a straight section in the curved part of the frame or leave it stock and work around it somehow. Either way, it will be done. I don't mind cutting and welding, it's kinda fun!!
Thanks for support....I'm going to need all the support I can get!!!!
treblig

[ralt12]

I think the boxes you are describing are the rear seat footwells used on the coupes.

Here's a pic from Classic Enterprises replacement parts catalog.

If you choose not to use the footwells, they can be welded in and will look like this:

[Treblig]

If you choose not to use the footwells, they can be welded in and will look like this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]43374[/ATTACH]

I think the foot wells are SUPER COOL features. The ones on my Silver Hawk must have been sealed because the rear floors are flat (on the inside of the cab). The only reason I knew there were boxes under the floor is because I had to drill through that section for the rear inboard bucket seat bolts. If/when I pull the carpets I'll be able to see the original floors in the rear, then I can verify if the floors have been modified. I can't, for any reason see why they would have sealed them over. Even me, Mr. "I'll modify anything" wouldn't seal them off for no reason!! I think they are cool!!

treblig

[karterfred88]

I think the foot wells are SUPER COOL features. The ones on my Silver Hawk must have been sealed because the rear floors are flat (on the inside of the cab). The only reason I knew there were boxes under the floor is because I had to drill through that section for the rear inboard bucket seat bolts. If/when I pull the carpets I'll be able to see the original floors in the rear, then I can verify if the floors have been modified. I can't, for any reason see why they would have sealed them over. Even me, Mr. "I'll modify anything" wouldn't seal them off for no reason!! I think they are cool!!

treblig

I think most that have been sealed off were done so to avoid remaking the rusted out foot well or the complications in fitting new carpet. They provide little if any additional comfort for the rear passengers, as most feet are too big for them. Weren't much use for me as a kid, riding in the back seat of my dad's many Hawks.

[ralt12]

I took mine out because the cars runs a lot lower than a normal Stude, and I wanted room for mufflers.

[studebakerkid]

The problem is that you are using a $14000 car and turning it into a $7000 car instead of you joining this site one or two years ago and picking up a $2000 -$3000 dollar project vehicle. I recall seeing an ad just last week for a Hawk down in that price range. Some of us have so many projects sitting at our places that we have to give them away to those that are deserving.

A car like this one for example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-P...m=221755036338

or this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-G...m=161685532776

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

AH ! Hind sight ! 20 20.
The reality is that he is dealing with the situation he HAS, not with the situation you are conjuring up.
Time and his daughters desires are things you are not taking into consideration.
The cars you referenced would need interior, body work and paint. That cost would need to be factored in.
And would add up quickly.
The answers are different for us all.
It would be nice if we could all save all the cars we want. Oh well, maybe next time. We should all keep trying though.

[Treblig]

AH ! Hind sight ! 20 20.
The reality is that he is dealing with the situation he HAS, not with the situation you are conjuring up.
Time and his daughters desires are things you are not taking into consideration.
The cars you referenced would need interior, body work and paint. That cost would need to be factored in.
And would add up quickly.
The answers are different for us all.
It would be nice if we could all save all the cars we want. Oh well, maybe next time. We should all keep trying though.

The PREZ must be a genius!!! I wanted to buy a car with no rust (ZERO rust) for one big reason. I live in one of the worst environments for corrosion. 1/4 mile from the ocean with a constant salty sea breeze. I've lived here all my live (barring military time). Every morning all the cars under the car port are covered with a very thin slime of dust, dirt, and salt. You don't even notice it unless you let the car sit there for 3/4 days, then it becomes obvious. Even my Barracuda, it sits inside an enclosed garage and after about a week the slime begins to collect. Body work is one thing I can do but really really don't enjoy and paint shops in my city are notorious for keeping classic cars (that need "no" body work) for 9-10 months. My friends have had some of their classic cars held for over a year before they get them back.
I could never meet my time line if I had bought a cheaper car that needed body work/trim work. Let's not even go into the cost of body work and paint!!! My goal was to buy a car that was running, I didn't even care it it ran poorly. But it had to have a really nice body/trim work and nice interior. From the looks of the underside of this car it looks like it was a frame off resto. The frame is completely painted (every square inch) top, bottom and sides. The underside is completely undercoated, every square inch. The brake lines are all new, front to back, even new clips!! The interior is all new and really beautiful, it needs nothing!! The only issues I see with this car is engine/trans/steering gear box. They all leak profusely. The engine starts up and runs smooth and the transmission shifts perfectly. I'll sell these parts and get some of my money back. Luckily, those items are to be replaced so I think I got a great deal!! I've restored cars before and found that the smartest way is to get a rust free complete car so you don't spend a fortune in time and money buying all the missing parts and doing body work and paint. To me, that's where all the money goes. All the mechanics and modifications I can do myself, so that part is free as far as I'm concerned. Also, neither the cars shown on ebay had fins!! Gotta have the fins.

One more thing, if I had been able to find a car (FAT CHANCE) with a perfect body and interior and NO ENGINE/TRANS....I would have been looking for a long time. If I had bought a similar car with a non-running engine, I would have paid even more to ship. Besides the shippers avoid cars that aren't running because they are a hassle. So I made my choice based on experience. The previous owner told me the engine/trans had some leaks and that it was hard to steer unless the car was moving/rolling. So the guy was honest. I haggled him down from 16K and I am very, very happy with the car I received. I can drive it around as I modify it and in the end it will have a modern drive train and run for another million miles. Every one that has seen the car thinks that it's beautiful. People are taking cell phone pics of the car (as they drive past me). I will never buy a fixer upper again, been there, done that.

Thanks PREZ!!

Treblig

[Treblig]

The problem is that you are using a $14000 car and turning it into a $7000 car instead of you joining this site one or two years ago and picking up a $2000 -$3000 dollar project vehicle. I recall seeing an ad just last week for a Hawk down in that price range. Some of us have so many projects sitting at our places that we have to give them away to those that are deserving.

A car like this one for example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-P...m=221755036338

or this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Studebaker-G...m=161685532776

These cars need extensive restoration (in other words MONEY and TIME!!). That's why they are so cheap. Around here, where I live I'm pretty sure I can get 20K for the Silver Hawk after it's complete. My son has had many, many offer over 20K for his car. It has a 350 eng/700R4 trans/12 bolt rear/Saturn Vue side mirrors/Shoulder harness bucket seats/the third rear seat out of a Suburban (with built in seat belts)/500 watt stereo system/..and on and on and on. When you do them right they are worth a lot more than if you leave them stock!! Now if you have a perfect (mecun auction car) Silver Hawk with a factory turbo, then it would be dumb to replace the drive train!!

treblig

[Treblig]

I took mine out because the cars runs a lot lower than a normal Stude, and I wanted room for mufflers.

Now that makes sense!! Did anyone accuse you of butchering your car to make it better??

treblig