gt hawk body ready for restoration

[swvalcon]

I got the parts car body on the rotissery today and started getting the undercoat off under it so it can go out for sand blasting. Looks like they put the undercoat on with no primer under it. No wonder our stude had rust issues. The floor had a few small spots with rust that I didn't know about that showed up after I got the floors cleaned good inside. Looks like maybe the bottom of the passengers rear foot well has some pin holes in it to. The trunk floor after all the undercoat was removed looks great. Solid as a rock. will post pictures as I continue with the body restore. steve

[warrlaw1]

Should come out shiny. Good luck. Don't go too crazy with primer if it's going to a body shop. Let them use the products they prefer with the finish you prefer.

[swvalcon]

Warrlaw1 I 'am the bodyshop. But this is my own car. After getting the undercoat off the bottom side of the passenger rear foot well I found it was not rust pin holes that I was seeing light though. Looks like someone beat some small holes in it. My guess it had water in it and this was a quick way to let it out. I'll wire feed them shut before it goes to the sand blaster. Which is suppose to be next week. The plan is to have the body shell primed, undercoated and painted, and ready to go back on the frame by the middle of Feb.

[swvalcon]

Got all the undercoat off the bottom of the floor. Think I will repair the rust spots in the floor and the one small spot at the lt rear before it goes to the sand blaster. That way when it comes back all I have to do is blow it out good, clean it up good and it's ready to prime and seam seal before paint. Also have to get out the lower hinge bolts that broke and I had to cut to get old hinges off. The rockers and rocker boxes as well as all frame mounts are solid as can be.

[old digger]

Steve, not a Mn. car I assume. Hope to get by and see it this spring when we get back to your neck of the woods. Looking great so far. old digger

[swvalcon]

I didn't like the pin holes in the front part of the floors so started to rebuild the passengers side today. Got the first panel next to the door done and most of it welded in. Hope to get the edge of the toe board done tomorrow. I drilled some holes next to my braces under the floor to mark them as I didn't want to cut into them. Then took some tin and build my panel and tacked it in. It will be sand blasted, primed and seam sealed and have bed liner on both sides when done. Have to finish this this week as I have a plane, a boat and a Cadillac to paint next week.

[swvalcon]

Got the first panel welded in. There's only one seam that you can see from the bottom that shouldn't be there. It's the bad picture with my finger in it. Once sandblasted and seam sealed and undercoated I don't think anyone will know. Cut out the toe board panel. Cut a piece of tin and build new panel and tack welded in place. It is going to the sandblaster tomorrow so will have to finish patch panels when it comes back.

[Kdancy]

You might want to look up Tamco Paint company. They make the best epoxy primers at the best price I have seen. Been using their stuff on a 52 Hudson Wasp I'm building. Just tried their sealer, really good stuff.

http://www.tamcopaint.com/primers-and-sealers.html

Ive also started using their clears. As good as any high end clear I have used in the past.

[swvalcon]

I use Spi Epoxy. There's a video on u tube where a guy is doing a test on it. You should watch it it's unreal. IT's also on [Hotrodders .com under paint as spi torture test.] Price on their epoxy and clear is about the best you can find.

[swvalcon]

Just picked the hawk body up from the sand blaster and it held up pretty good. Has a few more small holes that I didn't plan on to fix but nothing to bad. My camera died so will post pictures tomorrow when it's charged back up. Is sure going to make it nice to finish welding and after I strip the paint off the roof and epoxy it that's about as nice a base as you can have for a restore.

[swvalcon]

The floor on drivers side I knew was there but the small hole on inner rear fender panel and a few small ones in floor and trunk floor kind of caught me by surprise. Nothing that can't be fixed and when I bed liner both sides it will out last me.

[swvalcon]

Got the drivers side all patched up and seam sealed all joints and factory spot welds. Put some weld though primer on all patches and under the seam sealer. When it dries a couple days I will epoxy both sides of the floor and after 24 hrs dry scuff with a red scuff pad and put about a 1/8 in. of rubber bed liner on both sides. Floor will end up with a 1/4" of bed liner and the factory steel of about 18 gauge.

[Milaca]

Looking good Steve!

[TWChamp]

I drove through Princeton the other day on my way home from Brainerd, where I picked up a 51 Champ engine and tranny. Wish I would have had your address, as I'd like to see this in person.

[swvalcon]

Got the SPI epoxy on the bottom side of the floor today so it can dry good before I bed liner it. Two coats and it took about 1/2 a quart so at 50-50 mix that's one quart spray able. Almost look's to nice to cover up with bed liner but the car will have so much less road noise and will hold any rust down if I do both sides with the bed liner. What looks like light spots in the primer must be from the flash.