I have a 60 Lark VI wagon. No TT, so is this the Dana 22 axle? Can I just go to NAPA or a rear end rebuilder shop and get a standard pinion seal to replace the original? Mine's just leaking too much for me to want to keep refilling it even though I understand it's a somewhat of a hassle to replace.
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Leo its probably a dana27 axle possibly a 23. the number will be on right side webbing between diff. housing and axle tube. look for raised numbers. its a common seal and most FLAPS carry it. be sure to torque pinion nut after installation. torque value is 140-180 ft. lbs. good luck , Doofus
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Originally posted by doofus View PostLeo its probably a dana27 axle possibly a 23. the number will be on right side webbing between diff. housing and axle tube. look for raised numbers. its a common seal and most FLAPS carry it. be sure to torque pinion nut after installation. torque value is 140-180 ft. lbs. good luck , Doofus
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The Studebaker Vendors sell the correct Seal, all the Dana Spicer Models are the same by the way.
I am looking at the application list our Studebaker Parts Wholesaler prints on all the parts boxes.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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OK looking from the back, while you refill the diff. look for raised number. you will need thin wall 11/8 socket IMS. also to remove seal a seal remover sometimes works or a pair of sheet metal screws threaded into seal then pry under heads a little at a time. worst case scenario force thin sharp chisel under seal flange and work the seal out. sometimes you have to destroy the seal to remove it. R2 is right with locktite on threads. also a large pipe wrench on yoke helps. let yoke turn till its against floor then torque it . Have fun , Doofus
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Don't forget the paper gasket under the seal, or it will leak. When the nut is off the yoke, take a center punch and mark the splines so they go back in the same place.
A very thin film of permatex on the splines will prevent seepage around the splines.Bez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
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Originally posted by bezhawk View PostDon't forget the paper gasket under the seal, or it will leak. When the nut is off the yoke, take a center punch and mark the splines so they go back in the same place.
A very thin film of permatex on the splines will prevent seepage around the splines.
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Originally posted by doofus View PostOK looking from the back, while you refill the diff. look for raised number. you will need thin wall 11/8 socket IMS. also to remove seal a seal remover sometimes works or a pair of sheet metal screws threaded into seal then pry under heads a little at a time. worst case scenario force thin sharp chisel under seal flange and work the seal out. sometimes you have to destroy the seal to remove it. R2 is right with locktite on threads. also a large pipe wrench on yoke helps. let yoke turn till its against floor then torque it . Have fun , Doofus
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If you are in a pinch and can't wait for the seal to come in the mail head on down to your local auto parts store and ask for a pinion seal for a Dana 44 or 27, as the are the same seal. They should have one on the shelf. They range in price from $15 to $30. On eBay you could pick one up for less than $10 but you will have to wait and you always have to watch out you get the right one and it's not old stock.
Buying from our Studebaker vendors you can be assured you will get the right one.
Len
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I am not averse to ordering from Studebaker vendors, but for something like this, I would prefer to just go into the NAPA store and get the right part right then. I do have a bucket list of other items I will be ordering from SI, so it's not like they'll be neglected.
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