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1947 Studebaker commander transmission stuck in second gear

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: 1947 Studebaker commander transmission stuck in second gear

    hello everyone I have a 1947 commander 5 passenger coupe with a three speed manual transmission with overdrive.I was having trouble with the transmission slipping out of first and second gear but not third or reverse and overdrive works just fine. I have the shop manual for the car and decided to follow the instructions to realign the linkage. After I completed the adjustment the car is now stuck in second gear. When I started the adjustments the car was in second gear. the manual made no mention of putting the car in neutral before you began with the rest of the procedure. Nor in any of the advice I found here did it mention anything about putting the transmission into neutral first before you unhook the linkage from the transmission. I am wondering if anybody knows if the transmission should have been in neutral before I began the repair or it didn't really make a difference since it was never mentioned? I would appreciate any help anybody out there could give me on this thank you. Also should I try and set the linkage adjustment back the way it was before I began and if that works put the transmission in neutral and go from there? Again any help from anybody would really be appreciated, thank you.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Unless yours is different from my 52, the transmission should be in neutral and the shifter in the center neutral position. Then the linkage is adjusted to that position. Be sure your transmission and engine mounts are good and the bushings in the linkage is snug or none of this will help much.
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    • #3
      You must have something other than a factory manual. The adjusting procedure is covered pretty well on page 173 in the Studebaker Shop Manual. In lieu of the special tool mentioned, you'll just have to improvise something to center the levers and hold them from moving.
      Restorations by Skip Towne

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      • #4
        thank you for your advice. As I realized after, the transmission was probably supposed to be in neutral before I started disconnectingthe shift rods from the transmission levers. I just wish they had mentioned that in this shop manual how important it was that the transmission was in neutral first. Thank you again, oh you wouldn't happen to know how I could get the transmission out of second gear without the shift rods being hooked up? Would you?

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        • #5
          yes thank you for your reply. I did use that manual and page 173 and unfortunately the first thing they tell you to do is disconnect the shift rods from the transmission levers. It doesn't say make sure transmission is in neutral first. I assume this manual was written for the mechanics of the day who, in training, were probably told to make sure before they started to put the transmission in neutral. You wouldn't happen to know how I can get the car out of second gear without having the shift rods hooked up would you? I would appreciate any help on that. Thank you. I attached a photograph of that section of the manual I have if you care to look at it.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Are you saying that you cannot get the trans lever on the transmission itself out of second gear even when the remote linkage is disconnected? If you disconnect the remote rod from the lever on the trans, you should be able to move the lever back into neutral. If it binds, have someone push in the clutch at the same time.

            You can then align both levers into the center of the neutral position, and have someone hold the gearshift lever on the column in the middle of the H pattern, and adjust the rods to match up with the trans levers.
            Last edited by Skip Lackie; 12-19-2014, 02:30 PM. Reason: typo
            Skip Lackie

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            • #7
              I don't think your problem is with a simple adjustment I believe there are issues with the internal parts of the transmission. They are fairly simple to work on with limited special tools and the parts are not too expensive. Mainly needle bearings for the cluster and main input shaft and a set of brass synchro rings. There are some small balls and springs to assist in keeping the gears in place. In a 65 + year old transmission most likely it is warn internal parts rather than a simple external adjustment.

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              • #8
                This question reminded me of that old song from the fifties,...."Beep-Beep"...(his horn went beep beep beep!)

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