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My 1st Studebaker lark

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  • #16
    Purdy car!
    I would lift the heads & drop the pan & feel CAREFULLY with fingers in the sludge... mine had sharp little pieces there... & it was stuck first & I worked a week to free it but no, then after I lifted it out it sudenly had freed it self!
    So since it was out I dropped the pan.
    & I'm HAPPY it didn't get free still in the car!

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    • #17
      Ok so questions ...

      1st , do I need to take the push rods out first before I loosen the head ?

      2nd, does anyone know if there's a parts car to be had in my area I'm learning they are invaluable when it comes to spare parts on the fly
      "trying to save them from the crusher one at a time"

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      • #18
        After you remove the Head Bolts in the Rocker Arm Stands and the 1/2" wrench size ones also in the Stands, you will be able to lift the Rocker Arm Assy. off of the engine which will allow you to give the pushrods a twist and slight sideways shake before pulling them up & out to break the suction of the Oil in the Solid Lifters, so you do not dislodge the lifters.

        The 2 Dowels in the block will hold each Head until you break the Gasket seal to remove them.

        Leaving the pushrods in, would make it difficult to pull the heads without damaging the Pushrods.

        Tag the Left or Right Rocker as such, in case the Rockers do not need resurfacing.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #19
          Your new car project gave me "flashback" memories of one of the best fun cars I have ever owned. Just parted with it last fall and the car is still in the holding area of the local salvage yard and may have a few items still left like the doors and glass. I am in Richmond. Come visit and I can guide you on your engine repairs. Yes, if you elect to remove the heads you have to first remove the intake manifold, then the valve covers, then the rocker arm shaft, then slowly pull out the pushrods. Then remove the exhaust piping, loosen the top water manfold to head attachment bolts (2 on each side), then remove all remaining head bolts. Then with a large bar, insert into the center exhaust crossover and with some torque leverage break the seal to the engine block. Then pick up the head off the short block section. On the driver side you have to get the throttle support off and up to clear. Disconnect the temperature sesnor. On the passenger side disconnect the oil pressure line at the back side. If you can fix a bicycle you can fix this engine. I've got some tail lights if you want them. PM if interested.
          Attached Files
          Start and Stage Your Studebakers

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          • #20
            My trick for freeing a stuck engine, after a good soaking with some petroleum of some sort,I like Marvel mystery oil, Is to remove the starter and get on the flywheel teeth with a BIG screwdriver. Carefully pinch the flywheel back and forth untill it moves 360 degrees. do this a time or two then put the starter back on and spin it. Be careful not to damage the teeth.This method has worked for me several times. Of course,drain and refill the oil pan first.
            Neil Thornton

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            • #21
              Well until the rain stops I can't do much to the car because it's in my back yard up on jack stands and my yard becomes low tide at the pier when it rains like this we had almost 7 inches and it is still coming down
              "trying to save them from the crusher one at a time"

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              • #22
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                it has red/orange valve covers I took them off to investigate why the motor was stuck
                "trying to save them from the crusher one at a time"

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                • #23
                  I've seen worse made run..

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                  • #24
                    Anatomy of Stuck Rings

                    This is a removed piston from a frozen engine.

                    As noted the rust and gunk get in the ring lands and cause the rings to freeze in their collapsed state.

                    Soaking the pistons in solvent and lightly tapping and working the ring, I might be able to free it up. More likely, it will snap before that happens.

                    Even so I'd still have to clean the grove to get the rings function to operate properly.

                    Without clean ring groves you will burn oil and lose performance..

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                    • #25
                      The rain has stopped and I went out back to find a car full of water so I looked inside the cowl and found it full of leaves and junk so i decided to clean the entire car out and see where it's leaking and give it a good bath I really hope the paint come clean after 30 years
                      "trying to save them from the crusher one at a time"

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                      • #26
                        I wanted to take time and thank you all for making me feel so welcome and trying to help me solve this motor problem without help from all of you guys this would not be possible. I now have the hope I can fix this old girl up to her former glory .
                        "trying to save them from the crusher one at a time"

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                        • #27
                          The head looks clean but a little dry. I bet the pistons are frozen in the cylinders. I would prepare yourself for an overhaul now since in the long run it would just be easier. Even if you pull the heads, free it up and get it running the rings may be stuck and you'll end up having to take it back apart, or worse cause more damage. Just my opinion but I've run into this before and doing it right the first time saves time, money and aggravation.

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                          • #28
                            Don't wait too long before joining a local chapter. Someone might have a good 259 engine for cheap.....or even free if they like you. The 259 is not as sought after as a 289, but they are great engines.
                            "In the heart of Arkansas."
                            Searcy, Arkansas
                            1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                            1952 2R pickup

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                            • #29
                              Well I joined the Studebaker drivers club earlier today and went to join my local chapter but stopped because my laptop threw up all kinds of red flags say the web site was infected and Microsoft did not trust this site so on and so forth so I'll contact the chapter via snail mail
                              "trying to save them from the crusher one at a time"

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                              • #30
                                Ok so motor update it turns out that the motor blew its head gaskets at one time and the PO just sat it up never doing anything after that 8 seized cylinders and rusted up valves

                                I guess Im going to pull it and find another 259 until I get enough money to rebuild this one
                                "trying to save them from the crusher one at a time"

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