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Thread: 50 Pickup Frame Swap ???

  1. #1
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    50 Pickup Frame Swap ???

    I am new to this forum and I have a few questions I hope you guys could gelp me out with. My dad just picked up a 50 pickup shortbox and the major question is if we could swap the frame with an s10 frame and what kind of body/frame mods are we looking at. We plan on street rodding this truck a little bit with small block and maybe tubbing it. He was told you could use an s10 frame when he got it and he has been wanting me to find out for sure if the frame will work. I have a line on a 89 2wd s10 with a 355 already innstalled for a song. Anyway, any help you could give is appreciated. Thanks

  2. #2
    Golden Hawk Member Roscomacaw's Avatar
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    I've not heard this swap touted, but then 99% of the trucks we know of from this forum are wearing stock underpinnings. Maybe someone else will chime in.

    You might wanna pose your question on the Studebaker truck talk site as well.

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/23885/

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle!!

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

  3. #3
    Golden Hawk Member Roscomacaw's Avatar
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    I've not heard this swap touted, but then 99% of the trucks we know of from this forum are wearing stock underpinnings. Maybe someone else will chime in.

    You might wanna pose your question on the Studebaker truck talk site as well.

    http://www.network54.com/Forum/23885/

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle!!

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

  4. #4
    President Member Swifster's Avatar
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    First, the standard, "It's your truck, do what you want". Second, I like street rods and have no problems with modified Studes (I'm building one myself).

    Having said this, I think it's easier to modify the original Stude frame than trying to make everything fit on a S-10 frame. Many street rod vendors sell IFS kits that can be fitted to the Stude frame. This gives a modern suspension upgrade without trying to mount the cab, bed and front sheet metal to a frame that will need to be modified in some way anyway. A stock S-10 rear won't hold the power for long any more so than the stock Stude unit. A simple swap to a Ford 9" or 8.8" would not be that hard either.

    Check out Fatman Fabrications or Total Cost Involved (TCI) regarding front suspension set ups. The kits are MII based. These will weld onto the Stude frame with a minimum of fuss.

    I like vehicles that I can drive daily without a lot a practicality issues. I found that tubs, and the tires that go with them limit to a certain extent the ability to drive it daily (and really, isn't this the reason we build/play with this stuff?).

    OK, now with all this said, this is what I would do...

    * TCI front end kit
    * Ford 9" rear end
    * A reliable SBC done up like a '50's engine (orange paint, 'Chevrolet' script valve covers, and a '50's style air cleaner)
    * Or a Vortec 4200 I-6 for modern power and 6 cylinder style
    * A 700R4 or 4L60 trans (or a 4/5-spd)


    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Lakeland, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona

    Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
    Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
    LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com

  5. #5
    President Member Swifster's Avatar
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    First, the standard, "It's your truck, do what you want". Second, I like street rods and have no problems with modified Studes (I'm building one myself).

    Having said this, I think it's easier to modify the original Stude frame than trying to make everything fit on a S-10 frame. Many street rod vendors sell IFS kits that can be fitted to the Stude frame. This gives a modern suspension upgrade without trying to mount the cab, bed and front sheet metal to a frame that will need to be modified in some way anyway. A stock S-10 rear won't hold the power for long any more so than the stock Stude unit. A simple swap to a Ford 9" or 8.8" would not be that hard either.

    Check out Fatman Fabrications or Total Cost Involved (TCI) regarding front suspension set ups. The kits are MII based. These will weld onto the Stude frame with a minimum of fuss.

    I like vehicles that I can drive daily without a lot a practicality issues. I found that tubs, and the tires that go with them limit to a certain extent the ability to drive it daily (and really, isn't this the reason we build/play with this stuff?).

    OK, now with all this said, this is what I would do...

    * TCI front end kit
    * Ford 9" rear end
    * A reliable SBC done up like a '50's engine (orange paint, 'Chevrolet' script valve covers, and a '50's style air cleaner)
    * Or a Vortec 4200 I-6 for modern power and 6 cylinder style
    * A 700R4 or 4L60 trans (or a 4/5-spd)


    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Lakeland, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona

    Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
    Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
    LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com

  6. #6
    President Member stude53's Avatar
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    Yeah, Mr Biggs

    I agree. This topic would be easily answered on Truck Talk. Some of the guys there have grafted Stude trucks to late model frames and drivetrains.

    Come on over, Carguy00

    [img=left]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/stude53/studesmall2.jpg[/img=left]Bob Feaganes (stude53)
    53 Starliner Hardtop
    Newton Grove, NC

  7. #7
    President Member stude53's Avatar
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    Yeah, Mr Biggs

    I agree. This topic would be easily answered on Truck Talk. Some of the guys there have grafted Stude trucks to late model frames and drivetrains.

    Come on over, Carguy00

    [img=left]http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j259/stude53/studesmall2.jpg[/img=left]Bob Feaganes (stude53)
    53 Starliner Hardtop
    Newton Grove, NC

  8. #8
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    I posted the same message over there. Thanks
    Also some good info here already. Keep the ideas coming

  9. #9
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    I posted the same message over there. Thanks
    Also some good info here already. Keep the ideas coming

  10. #10
    President Member Swifster's Avatar
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    Get an issue of Street Roddermagazine or American Rodder. While this may not be a '32 Ford, the principle is the same. Most hot rod parts are generic and can be made to fit most anything. I've gotten a lot of ideas for my '64 Daytona while looking at magazines that cater to a different type of car (or truck).

    I think many novice rodders look at clipping or substituting a frame without looking at what you have already and what can be done with it. Remember, the cab has to be attached to the (S-10) donor frame. So does the bed and front clip. I think it's easier to repair and modify the original frame while still mounting the body parts where the mounts are already set up.

    I also think a car can be taken away from it's personality to the point that it just looks weird. My Daytona is a '60's car and looks that way. While I want a modern powertrain (supercharged 6.0L and 6-spd), I want the character of the car to stay the same, right down to the hurst shifter with basic white shifter knob.

    Before turning a wrench, take the time to really plan out the car/truck. It will make the project move smoother and increase the chance of the car/truck turning out right. I waited two years before turning a wrench while planning what I wanted and how I'd go about doing it. So far, so good...

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Lakeland, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona

    Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
    Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
    LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com

  11. #11
    President Member Swifster's Avatar
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    Get an issue of Street Roddermagazine or American Rodder. While this may not be a '32 Ford, the principle is the same. Most hot rod parts are generic and can be made to fit most anything. I've gotten a lot of ideas for my '64 Daytona while looking at magazines that cater to a different type of car (or truck).

    I think many novice rodders look at clipping or substituting a frame without looking at what you have already and what can be done with it. Remember, the cab has to be attached to the (S-10) donor frame. So does the bed and front clip. I think it's easier to repair and modify the original frame while still mounting the body parts where the mounts are already set up.

    I also think a car can be taken away from it's personality to the point that it just looks weird. My Daytona is a '60's car and looks that way. While I want a modern powertrain (supercharged 6.0L and 6-spd), I want the character of the car to stay the same, right down to the hurst shifter with basic white shifter knob.

    Before turning a wrench, take the time to really plan out the car/truck. It will make the project move smoother and increase the chance of the car/truck turning out right. I waited two years before turning a wrench while planning what I wanted and how I'd go about doing it. So far, so good...

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Lakeland, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona

    Michigan Speed - www.michiganspeed.com
    Club Hot Rod - www.clubhotrod.com
    LS1 Tech - www.ls1tech.com

  12. #12
    Golden Hawk Member
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    I know of '47 to '51 Studebaker cars that have been placed on S-10 frames, but I do not know of any Studebaker trucks placed on S-10 frames. I do know of Studebaker trucks that have been placed on full size Chevrolet/GMC truck frames. I have owned two modified Studebaker trucks, including one presently. The previous one has a Nova front clip and a 400 cubic inch Chevrolet engine and my present truck has a Trans Am front clip with a 350 ci Chevrolet engine. They both have TurboHydramatic ATs and Chevrolet rear ends. Both trucks appear stock from the outside except for tail lights and wheels/tires.

    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

  13. #13
    Golden Hawk Member
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    I know of '47 to '51 Studebaker cars that have been placed on S-10 frames, but I do not know of any Studebaker trucks placed on S-10 frames. I do know of Studebaker trucks that have been placed on full size Chevrolet/GMC truck frames. I have owned two modified Studebaker trucks, including one presently. The previous one has a Nova front clip and a 400 cubic inch Chevrolet engine and my present truck has a Trans Am front clip with a 350 ci Chevrolet engine. They both have TurboHydramatic ATs and Chevrolet rear ends. Both trucks appear stock from the outside except for tail lights and wheels/tires.

    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

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