Can my 289 and FOM ever be made to stop leaking completely?

[StudeRich]

Ditto!
I don't know either Dan, I thought I covered that in Post #3 here, Quote: "just dried up or poorly done Gasket and Main Seal installations".
But the reports of "they all leak" keep coming!

[jclary]

Well...I was waiting for someone else to make this point, but I suppose I'll be the one to take the heat. Think about it, most of our cars are over sixty years old. No matter how much money you pour into it, it is still an old car. Unless you yank the body off and plunk it down on a new chassis, complete with running gear, computers, etc, it will always be an old car built with old technology.

My leaky old Studebakers are kept in a barn out of the sun and rain while my non-leaking newer vehicles are exposed to the weather. That's the way I like it. My modern vehicles are merely disposable tools that allow me make the boring, mundane, trips and errands, so that I can enjoy my Studebakers at my leisure.

Even if you stopped all the leaks in a Studebaker, sooner or later, something will leak again. Back in the day, when engineers used slide rules, micrometers, calipers, etc...what was acceptable then, just don't cut it now. Cad-cam design, computerized machining centers, carbide and ceramic cutting tools, and methods that mate parts without the need for gaskets, have resulted in methods not possible years ago. Advances in seal technology, engineering, and computer aided measurements, with the resulting repeatability of mating parts, has resulted in modern vehicles being completely different animals than our "OLD CARS."

Rather than putting excessive energy into attempting to make my old cars into new cars...I prefer to "Use" my new cars in ways that allow me to enjoy my "OLD" cars as they were made. To do otherwise, would keep me in a constant state of frustration.

[JoeHall]

Man I don't know where you guys are getting your work done but I don't have leaky Stude V8's and never have. And I even race mine. I have found that the new gaskets from Best Gasket Company are made of the newer materials and fit a lot better than old stock Felpro or Victor gaskets and I have done four engines with out one leak, even at 170 mph. The biggest issue is installation of the front seal and the pan end gaskets. Cut them with a slight amount of crush and they seal great. I have built a number of autos and I don't have leak problems there either.
Dan

I did not once use the word, "problem", and for me Studes' leaking is not a problem. Sounds like its a problem for the OP because his wife has declared it to be. If a Stude does not leak it is due to non-op, not enough passage of time since sealed up, or extensive use of brand 'X' components.

[Flashback]

I love Studebakers, and feel thay were well built. However, as has already been mentioned, they do have a tendency to leak if care is not taken during assembly. The road draft tube can drip even then. A pcv system does help. It will take out the crankcase pressure. Knurling the filler block helps. I have had great luck with Fel-pro gaskets. The timing cover seal is greatly improved with a lip type seal and a redi-sleeve. Making reinforcement plates (pan bolt flange)for the oil pan helps.
Course all this is not my ideas. It has been covered in all the techs. A lot of old cars are touchy on gasket installation, not just Studebakers.

[brian6373]

I've had two Stude V-8's in the last two years. No drips. The only leak I have is the OD governor where it mounts on the side. I figure that will stop when I put in the new O-ring seal. I'm with Dan and Rich, a properly sealed engine and trans doesn't leak. It may be more trouble that some would think worth the time, but I like a clean engine bay. I notice at car shows a lot of brand x cars drip as much as our Studes. As with most things it's just a matter of time & effort, and our priorities.

[63t-cab]

Good point John,that's a carbon copy of what I do here in CT.though I do need to back track and fix a LEAKY front crank seal,as I did not get it right the first time QUOTE=jclary;790014]Well...I was waiting for someone else to make this point, but I suppose I'll be the one to take the heat. Think about it, most of our cars are over sixty years old. No matter how much money you pour into it, it is still an old car. Unless you yank the body off and plunk it down on a new chassis, complete with running gear, computers, etc, it will always be an old car built with old technology.

My leaky old Studebakers are kept in a barn out of the sun and rain while my non-leaking newer vehicles are exposed to the weather. That's the way I like it. My modern vehicles are merely disposable tools that allow me make the boring, mundane, trips and errands, so that I can enjoy my Studebakers at my leisure.

Even if you stopped all the leaks in a Studebaker, sooner or later, something will leak again. Back in the day, when engineers used slide rules, micrometers, calipers, etc...what was acceptable then, just don't cut it now. Cad-cam design, computerized machining centers, carbide and ceramic cutting tools, and methods that mate parts without the need for gaskets, have resulted in methods not possible years ago. Advances in seal technology, engineering, and computer aided measurements, with the resulting repeatability of mating parts, has resulted in modern vehicles being completely different animals than our "OLD CARS."

Rather than putting excessive energy into attempting to make my old cars into new cars...I prefer to "Use" my new cars in ways that allow me to enjoy my "OLD" cars as they were made. To do otherwise, would keep me in a constant state of frustration.[/QUOTE]

[rknight89]

I have a fresh rebuilt 259 with a fresh rebuilt FOM. New hoses, gaskets, water pump and a radiator and heater newly re-cored. New fuel pump, lines, rebuilt carb and repaired and sealed tank. New wheel cylinders, and lines and a rebuilt master cylinder. Each and every one of the items listed above has leaked, dribbled, oozed or squirted since installation. I have re-torqued bolts, tightened fittings, snugged down nuts, gave the line wrench one extra grunt, and changed types of hose clamps. I've now got 99% of the leaks stopped. HOWEVER, there is an occasional spot or two on the floor when I back the car out. Even with everything new, fresh and clean and properly torqued, the fluids seem to find a way out. The only part that hasn't leaked yet is the differential...Give me some time. I haven't been inside it yet. I can make it leak given the opportunity.

[JoeHall]

I have a fresh rebuilt 259 with a fresh rebuilt FOM. New hoses, gaskets, water pump and a radiator and heater newly re-cored. New fuel pump, lines, rebuilt carb and repaired and sealed tank. New wheel cylinders, and lines and a rebuilt master cylinder. Each and every one of the items listed above has leaked, dribbled, oozed or squirted since installation. I have re-torqued bolts, tightened fittings, snugged down nuts, gave the line wrench one extra grunt, and changed types of hose clamps. I've now got 99% of the leaks stopped. HOWEVER, there is an occasional spot or two on the floor when I back the car out. Even with everything new, fresh and clean and properly torqued, the fluids seem to find a way out. The only part that hasn't leaked yet is the differential...Give me some time. I haven't been inside it yet. I can make it leak given the opportunity.

Either you are seeing things, or have done everything wrong, and used incorrect parts. If you read the above, it is clearly stated Studebakers do NOT leak, and if they do, somebody did something wrong.

[Dick Steinkamp]

I've had 3 Studebakers that didn't leak (much) and 28 that did. All the non leakers were ones I had gone through and resealed with the motor out. 2 of the 3 were stick shifts which gave them fewer places to leak. The third is the Wagonaire I have now. No FOM leaks, but a drip every now and then out of the rear main.

If I were you, I wouldn't just start replacing gaskets. I'd find out where the leaks are. For example, if you just replace the pan gasket and find out later it was a rear main, you'll be dropping the pan again.

Get the motor and trans REAL clean. Then get it on a lift and find the leak(s). If the leaks aren't obvious, there are products like this that will make them obvious.

[Xcalibur]

Welcome to the "Good Ol' Days." Get drip pans and move on... or, go back to a new car.

[62champ]

As mentioned above, with slight alteration, my Uncle used to always says "Studebakers are like John Deere tractors - if it doesn't have some fluid leaking from it somewhere you had better check it because it might be out."

I see a slightly leaking drive train as a good excuse to lift the hood on a regular basis. When I drove a Studebaker full time (1993-2002) I lifted the hood at least every other day to check something. Newer vehicles, I am ashamed to admit, go a month or more without the hood being opened.

Still have wondered why someone has not come out with a complete neoprene oil pan gasket set - my neo valve cover gaskets have not even seeped a drop since I resealed them back in 2009...

[jnormanh]

If old British cars can be made leak free, and I know they can because I have done so....once....then Studebakers can be leak free too. New gaskets and seals, clean mounting surfaces, correctly tightened bolts and screws and gray silicone sealant is your friend.

[Roscomacaw]

One really sneaky leak is the lifter valley cover gasket. It gets baked by the center of the engine AND the underside of the intake manifold. Couple that with it's propensity to fall into the valley area partially when being installed, and you have a good chance of inciting a leak. What's more is that the leaked oil disappears over the rear edge of the block as soon as it drains back. By the time it drips off the lower rear of the engine, it's suspected as being from the rear main or the valve covers. I could explain how I know this, but you can likely guess.

[GEEMAC]

I have two studes now that don,t leak but some i had in the past did, instead of kittey litter and drip pans i keep a few of my wife,s old bedroom rugs as you all know they like to change things like this like we do oil changes and so on alot more softer on these old knees,when they get to bad i take them out and burn or haul them off.Mac

[erniebrown]

I have tightened bolts, screws. . . replaced gaskets. . . .new valve gaskets. . .you get the idea. . .and my favorite thing I did that seemed to help with the wife asking about the stains on the garage floor. . .. was to put cat liter down and replace it as needed. . .not to mechanical here. . .but full of. . .advice about practical stuff. .