Can my 289 and FOM ever be made to stop leaking completely?

[pbrown]

OK, good news / bad news...

Originally I got my Hawk to replace my 2011 mustang GT so that I would have a cool car that would not be worth 1/2 of what I paid for it in a few years.

the good news is, my wife told me last week "I have fallen in love with the car and can see us using it for most everything"

For her though, that means that it not only needs to reliable and comfortable - it needs to quit leaking and staining our garage floor and driveway.

The car is currently running well, but loses a little fluid no matter what. I know that I'll be chasing oil/transmission fluid leaks for a while before I get it to a manageable level to suit me, but I still don't think it will suit her.

And so the question is: "Can my 289 and FOM ever be made to stop leaking completely?"

Or is that a pipe dream, and I would need to move to something modern (i.e. SBC and 200R4) to make the engine bay as clean as a modern car?

[53commander]

If it's not leaking then there is something wrong with it. Seriously though you need to determine exactly what is leaking first and we can go from there. Some are easy fixes and some, like the oil pan, are a little more difficult. For my FOM I just couldn't get the side cover on the tailshaft housing to stop leaking. I ditched the gasket and used Threebond form in place gasket and solved that issue. I also used it in place of gaskets on the coolant plates on the heads since they leaked too. Over the years the cast iron surfaces become pitted or uneven to the point where a gasket cannot seal properly.

[StudeRich]

With proper wear parts replaced, that includes Bushings that wear and allow the seals to leak, there is no problem sealing up a Flight-O-Matic and even the 289 Engine.
The Engine does not suffer from the same problem, just dried up or poorly done Gasket and Main Seal installations.

I think one of the problems with Studes. is they are TOO durable! After 53 years and over 150,000 Miles on many of them, these Borg Warner's are still going strong on the ORIGINAL Build! Also some under 125,000 Mile Engines. Leaks, you bet they have em!

So the difference between owning a New "turn key" Car and a 50 year old Car, is you have to put in the time or money or both, to make it like it was, not just patch it up if you want to reliably enjoy it.

Members who have done that drive them as they did in the '60's, Coast to Coast for vacations and SDC Meets with only a tune-up Kit, a Water Pump and a Fuel Pump in the Trunk!

[RareBird]

I've had mine overhauled and ended up going to Walmart (in automotive section) and bought a large "cookie sheet" to place under the Hawk

[1961lark]

I think a large kitty litter tray would also work under the car?

[pbrown]

I'm currently using the top from a large plastic storage tub, so I understand the concept...

[JoeHall]

The cookie sheet drip pan is a good answer. A drip here and there is OK, as long as it is not puddling. That is simply, "the way it was" when our cars were built. When you look at the Lube Instructions and see how often the fluids were supposed to be checked, it becomes obvious they leaked when new. Even if you get the engine & tranny sealed up good and tight, its still gonna drip, but hopefully not puddle. Also, there are several other fluids that will contribute to the mess on the garage floor: coolant; rear pumpkin; power steering; steering gear box; brake system, and misc lines & fittings.

[ddub]

Yep, large "cookie sheet" and cat litter solves the problem.

[pbrown]

Currently my car is indeed puddling (albeit small puddles).

I've looked at the front and top of the engine (valve covers, etc) and I don't see any fresh oil, so my assumption is that my leaks are from the bottom or back of the engine.

So the next thing that I personally could fix is an oil pan leak, right? What makes the oil pan gasket so tough?

[JoeHall]

Drip point, and color of the liquid helps identify where its coming from: brown/black is usually motor oil, if under front of the car; brown/black at mid point may be the tranny (if standard shift); red is ATF from automatic tranny or PS; brown/black at the rear is usually the pumpkin; brake fluid is almost clear, and can be found anywhere from front to rear, but most often just below the master cylinder; yellowish green is usually coolant.

Do a search here for tips on oil pan gasket replacement. Lots of threads available there.

[pbrown]

Drip point, and color of the liquid helps identify where its coming from: brown/black is usually motor oil, if under front of the car; brown/black at mid point may be the tranny (if standard shift); red is ATF from automatic tranny or PS; brown/black at the rear is usually the pumpkin; brake fluid is almost clear, and can be found anywhere from front to rear, but most often just below the master cylinder; yellowish green is usually coolant.

Do a search here for tips on oil pan gasket replacement. Lots of threads available there.

I do have a tranny leak - I've seen a small amount of red fluid on the floor. (Which is why the title said 'Can my 289 and FOM ever be made to stop leaking completely?" - -I knew it was contributing to my garage floor decoration!) I put some "treatment in it, and haven't been seeing fluid - -keep your fingers crossed for me!)

I've just redone my brake lines and swapped out to front discs, so I'm intimately familiar with purple DOT5 brake fluid!

And I fixed my coolant leak, so I haven't been recently been seeing yellowish green.

All my current leaks seem to be around the middle of the car.

My major leak is indeed brown/black - in fact it looks like relatively fresh motor oil, so I'd say it's a pretty good sized leak.

My fear is that it is a rear main seal, which would require dropping the tranny, right?



Phillip

[swvalcon]

A studebaker is like a harley if it's not leaking oil that means it more than likely is out of oil.

[StudeRich]

/Cut/My major leak is indeed brown/black - in fact it looks like relatively fresh motor oil, so I'd say it's a pretty good sized leak.
My fear is that it is a rear main seal, which would require dropping the tranny, right?Phillip

No not the Tranny, just the Oil Pan and lowering the Crank a bit.

[JoeHall]

I do have a tranny leak - I've seen a small amount of red fluid on the floor. (Which is why the title said 'Can my 289 and FOM ever be made to stop leaking completely?" - -I knew it was contributing to my garage floor decoration!) I put some "treatment in it, and haven't been seeing fluid - -keep your fingers crossed for me!)

I've just redone my brake lines and swapped out to front discs, so I'm intimately familiar with purple DOT5 brake fluid!

And I fixed my coolant leak, so I haven't been recently been seeing yellowish green.

All my current leaks seem to be around the middle of the car.

My major leak is indeed brown/black - in fact it looks like relatively fresh motor oil, so I'd say it's a pretty good sized leak.

My fear is that it is a rear main seal, which would require dropping the tranny, right?



Phillip

No need to pull the tranny to replace the rear main seal, and you could do it while replacing the oil pan gasket. If all goes well with both of those tasks, the motor will only leak a drop here and there, for the first year or so. However, if it has a road draft tube (as a 1959 should), that will drip a few drops of motor oil from time to time also. As mentioned earlier, you'll always need the drip pans

[SilverHawkDan]

Man I don't know where you guys are getting your work done but I don't have leaky Stude V8's and never have. And I even race mine. I have found that the new gaskets from Best Gasket Company are made of the newer materials and fit a lot better than old stock Felpro or Victor gaskets and I have done four engines with out one leak, even at 170 mph. The biggest issue is installation of the front seal and the pan end gaskets. Cut them with a slight amount of crush and they seal great. I have built a number of autos and I don't have leak problems there either.
Dan