1950 hub caps?

[Studebaker Wheel]

Here is what the original caps look like. The words "Studebaker Champion" in white do not show up well in the image.

[David Conwill]

You may want to "re-think" the Bias Ply Tires plan! You will find that the Coker (or Diamond Back) Radial Wide Whites will handle MUCH better. That could require better Radial designed wheels however.

I really hate the radials on it right now. They're ugly due to the too-narrow whitewall and the bulgy sidewalls, and they make low-speed steering incredibly difficult.

[StudeRich]

I really hate the radials on it right now. They're ugly due to the too-narrow whitewall and the bulgy sidewalls, and they make low-speed steering incredibly difficult.

AHH, but much MORE beautiful on a 1963 and on Car!
When the alignment, air pressure and lubrication is right, they should not turn hard.

[David Conwill]

Don't I know it! I love the skinny whites on my Falcon (Futuras got skinny whites in '61).

[David Conwill]

They arrived today. I think they make a decent stand-in for the late-'50, '51-'52 cap:



Now for the bad news. The rear brakes are locking up at the slightest touch of the pedal, so I can't drive it until that's sorted out.

[chumad]

Super looking car, I took the liberty of fussing around with the picture... just playing around...

[David Conwill]

Super looking car, I took the liberty of fussing around with the picture... just playing around...

Hey cool, I like it.

[RadioRoy]

Brakes locking up at the slightest touch usually means the shoes are wet with brake fluid. If it has not been that way too long, you might soak them in simple green, rebuild the brake cylinders and be OK.

For some reason, it's usually the rear brakes that go bad first. Maybe because they are so hard to take apart.

[dimaxion]

I need some information please ? Why would wheels designed and made to work with Tube Type Bias Ply Tires ever hold air with Tubeless Radial Tires . The Mounting Bead area on a Tire and the Rim are different between the two . The Rivvits , or welds in some cases , do leak air . Is it not logical Wheel Covers that friction fit on the Wheel Bead of Tube Type area would not fit the same on Radial Rims . Slightly different diameters and width . After all , what's a silly milly meter difference anyway ? The Wheel Covers Know for sure . I do still beleve the Tube Tires Rims will not seal up sufficently to work on Tubeless Tires then as now . Then being when both Tubeless and Radials first hit the Market . I didn't think Wheels for Tubeless Tires will fit the older Vehicles made prior to both these events . As I don't believe Radila Rims would work . Please help me understand this ? Thanx ..

[David Conwill]

I assume there are tubes inside the radials on my car currently, but since I didn't put them on there, I can't say for certain.

I will say that I remember my dad having a tube put inside the radial on his '79 F250 when the rim developed some pinhole leaks and wouldn't let the tire stay inflated.

As far as wheels designed for tubeless tires on this car, I think that would require a bolt pattern change. I'm not aware of anything newer using the 4 on 4" pattern. I eventually would like to go with '51-up Commander brakes or the Turner disc conversion, so I will probably hunt up some narrow 5 on 4.5" wheels for that purpose. Speedway sells a 15 x 5 that would take the factory 10 1/8" hubcap, and those will accommodate a tubeless tire.

[David Conwill]

Brakes locking up at the slightest touch usually means the shoes are wet with brake fluid. If it has not been that way too long, you might soak them in simple green, rebuild the brake cylinders and be OK.

For some reason, it's usually the rear brakes that go bad first. Maybe because they are so hard to take apart.

Thanks for that, Roy. I will be looking at them this weekend, I hope.

I haven't read the shop manual thoroughly yet - what's the trick to getting the rear drums off?

[StudeRich]

I need some information please ? Why would wheels designed and made to work with Tube Type Bias Ply Tires ever hold air with Tubeless Radial Tires/Cut/

The Budd wheels used on '51 to '64 Studes. all hold air just fine, radials fit just fine thank you.
There is no significant difference in the Wheel Bead or the Tire Bead between Radial and Bias.
You are concerned about many things that are not a concern.

What you may be remembering is that Newer Wheels are called "Safety Rims" because the Bead shape has a Tire retaining feature, but does not affect Tire Shape, Wheel Cover Fit or anything, these came along AFTER Studebaker was gone.

Tubeless Tires were anticipated pretty early, I believe Studebaker had them around 1955 and Radials came into common use about 1976 as Optional Equipment ONLY on Chrysler products and other makes about that time.

That is not to say it was the FIRST use of course, Michelin was selling those skinny little Michelin X Radial Tires in early 1960's I believe that were only seen on Peugeots, and Citroens but sold as Aftermarket here for light Cars, they were Tube Type.

Now when it comes to Pre 1951 Wheels, I would not expect those old 4 bolt Champion Wheels to work very well with Radials, but they COULD.

[chumad]

Hey cool, I like it.

Dave glad you like it, sometimes I mess with someones pictures with out asking and folks don't always approve. I'm an amateur photographer who just likes Studebakers and most any car. I'm always fussing with someones picture of there car... some come out better than others but I keep trying. take a look at my webs site if you want and see some of my shots. www.sportsandmorephotography.com nothing fancy but its fun. Always glad to take requests if someone wants there photo fussed with. Its all for fun :-)

[RadioRoy]

Thanks for that, Roy. I will be looking at them this weekend, I hope.

I haven't read the shop manual thoroughly yet - what's the trick to getting the rear drums off?

You MUST use a proper hub puller. It's particularly unique on a 50 Champion because your car has four bolt hubs. Most of the modern pullers use three legs, which require a triangular lug pattern with the axle in the center of the triangle - not along the hypotenuse.

You either have to have four legs on the puller, or an adapter plate that bolts to all four lugs and has three more lugs for the puller.

But since I am the one who is always yapping about troubleshooting the problem before taking everything apart, you might determine which wheel is grabbing. You could also pull the front wheels first, as they are easier to pull.