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  • #31
    Cars made from '53 on are very similar. Small block Chevy's were original equipment in '65 & '66 models. With '52's, I don't know if any of them are easy. '52's have more in common with '51's. Nothing is going to bolt in except another Studebaker engine. I would probably try a small block Chevy and try matching the '65 mounts to the frame. It may fit, or you may have to modify. If a small block Chevy will fit, so will an LSx engine. 5.3L are cheap.

    In any case, you're going to need a complete drive train. A transmission and a rear end to take the added horsepower. A 700-R4 or a 4L60 would work fine and give you overdrive. You could use a Dana 44 or look for a rear end approximately the width like a Ford 8.8" out of a Ranger or Explorer.

    And at the end of the day, you need to convert the car to 12V. Even SBC's ran on 12V power to run the ignition system in the 50's.

    Now let me address what others were saying and hopefully this will make some sense. You can switch the 232 to a 259/289 and still use the 6V ignition system. BUT, I'd still suggest changing out the rear end and transmission. There are adapter plates to install a GM overdrive transmission. Again, you can use a 700-R4 or a 4L60 (non-electric) trans. The rear is the same as well. A Dana 44 will bolt or use the rear end of your choice. The 259/289 will let you continue to use the 6V wiring you currently have.

    And just a suggestion...Check your serial number to the title and make sure it matches. A lot of cars have the serial number removed and titled with something else.
    Tom - Bradenton, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
    1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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    • #32
      Mike; Forget the 348-409 W Chevs. The 2 center exhaust ports come out about 1/2" from the center of the steering box. The worst nightmare of an engine swap I have ever done.

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      • #33
        With little work to it, you could double HP with an engine that externally identical to the one already in there. While your at it,switch to a late model Auto or a stude manual. It would be easy and quite cheap to do. It would be the way to go if you just want your car to be quick, if you wanted to go truly fast, it would be more cost effective to swap motors. Studes seem to respond well to boost, many were factory supercharged, and while supercharging can get spendy fast, a ratty turbo set up would be cheap and fast. That would just depend on good you would be at making the piping.

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